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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Best paint for hand brushing?
Ranchhand
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 04, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 09:54 AM UTC
here is another vote for Vallejo. first time i brushed it on i was shocked by how well it covered.
Belt_Fed
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 10:03 AM UTC
Vallejo. Its not toxic or anything so you shouldnt have trouble with import restrictions. Its a bit expensive, but will last forever.
Mohawk73
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Friesland, Netherlands
Joined: December 13, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 - 09:37 PM UTC
In Holland € 2,25
Sometimes € 2,40
tnichols
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California, United States
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Posted: Friday, September 17, 2010 - 06:15 PM UTC
I think I lost my manners. Sorry for the slow response. Really appreciate the assistance and info. Thanks again. Ted Nichols
jaberwaki
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 29, 2010
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 01:10 PM UTC
Ron, for me model master acrylic paints are best for hand brushing. it goes on smooth and covers well. best of luck.
driffowl
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England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 09, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 - 02:17 AM UTC
hi have you tried CITADEL paints from the games workshop excellent range a bit more expensive than say tamiya etc but superb quality.they have got one or two what will maybe seem strange sounding names but give them a try .go to the games workshop website select canada in the region box and it will list your nearest suppliers.
Removed by original poster on 11/26/10 - 09:38:47 (GMT).
dubik2005
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: June 14, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 - 11:31 PM UTC
Guys why you like vallejo paints that much? It separates immediately. I have to mix it every time I dip brush. It's especially bad when I draw little detail, which can't mix paint so I have to take bigger brush....Reaper's paints and Andrea paints work much better. They don't separate and have nice coverage.
Big-John
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Ohio, United States
Joined: August 12, 2010
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Posted: Friday, March 25, 2011 - 01:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Winsor & Newton brushes. I have the Cirrus series. They are high quality Kolinsky Sable, leave no brush marks, and will last forever.
Use rounds for lines, points for detail, and flats for areas.


Matt, Where are you getting your Cirrus brushes from? I have been trying to find them but am having no luck.

I have a few and wanted to pick up some more, but it seams my sorce has discontenued them.
raffrecon
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New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
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Posted: Monday, May 30, 2011 - 03:34 AM UTC
Vallejo, by far. I just bought the 72 color military set and it includes 3 brushes as well. I really like these brushes too.

I like Tamiya and MM Acryl fro airbrushing.

Dan
Middle_Franconian
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Bayern, Germany
Joined: January 02, 2011
KitMaker: 279 posts
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Posted: Saturday, June 11, 2011 - 06:49 AM UTC
Hello!

I prefer Revell Aqua Color for applying paint by brush. It is odourless and one cup lasts very long. First I used it only for brush painting of details because I was not content with the results when using it in the airbrush and thinning it with water or Isopropyl alcohol. But since Revell has issued a thinner especially made for these colors I can handle the Aqua colors easily in the airbrush.

Servus,

Sebastian
vonHengest
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 11, 2011 - 07:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Guys why you like vallejo paints that much? It separates immediately. I have to mix it every time I dip brush. It's especially bad when I draw little detail, which can't mix paint so I have to take bigger brush....Reaper's paints and Andrea paints work much better. They don't separate and have nice coverage.


Sergiy, I have only ever experienced this problem once with Vallejo, one of the dark brown colors. Vallejo paints have otherwise been stellar to work with and are my favorite paints for brush painting.

imatanker
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Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 07:01 AM UTC
So let me get this straight,Vallejo can be brushed right out of the bottle with good results,with out having to mess with retarders and flow enhancers? Thanks,Jeff
dubik2005
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: June 14, 2010
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 08:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So let me get this straight,Vallejo can be brushed right out of the bottle with good results,with out having to mess with retarders and flow enhancers?


Technically you can, but I wouldn't suggest. It's very hard to paint. Just add one drop of water, it will be much easier. (1:1 paint:water). Retarders and flow enhancers are completely optional. Some also may suggest distilled water, my tap water is pretty good.
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 09:58 AM UTC
I use taklon brushes. They seem to resist "feathering" and are great with enamels. I have heard good things about Vallejo and Humbrol paints. But, due to difficulty of finding either here, I stick with MM enamels. For airbrushing, I use either Tamiya acrylics or MM enamels. MM acrylics are nice, as well. You will need to add a couple of drops of glass cleaner, if you use MM acrylics.
Removed by original poster on 07/18/11 - 22:38:05 (GMT).
imatanker
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Maine, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 11:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

So let me get this straight,Vallejo can be brushed right out of the bottle with good results,with out having to mess with retarders and flow enhancers?


Technically you can, but I wouldn't suggest. It's very hard to paint. Just add one drop of water, it will be much easier. (1:1 paint:water). Retarders and flow enhancers are completely optional. Some also may suggest distilled water, my tap water is pretty good.
Sergiy,thank you.I assume you can clean up with water?Does anything work better? Windex,isopropyl alcohol

Does anyone else have a preference as to what to thin (for brushing) and clean up Vallejo acrylics with?What ratios?Thanks,Jeff
Tarok
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 02:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Technically you can, but I wouldn't suggest.


Practically you can as well. You just need to ensure that it doesn't seperate My experience is similar to yours, however I found that thinning it with tap water caused it to seperate. I also noticed a chalky film forming. Clearly my tap water wasn't as good as yurs. For me distilled water was the solution to this issue.

Jeff: my preferance for thinning Vallejo Model Colour is distilled water for the reasons above. For thinning Vallejo Model Air: I don't, I spray straight from the bottle (well, bottle, to AB cup...). When painting (Model Colour) I clean the brushes using tap water, however at the end of the session I use Vallejo's brush cleaner and restorer - acrylics (or vinyl as in the Vallejo case) paints can be heavy wearing on brushes.

My 2c...

R~
Phil_H
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: November 10, 2005
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 02:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Does anyone else have a preference as to what to thin (for brushing) and clean up Vallejo acrylics with?What ratios?Thanks,Jeff


It's hard to suggest a specific thinning ratio for Vallejo ModelColor because the paints can vary considerably in consistency from one colour to another. Some colours are quite watery and some extrude from the jar almost in strings.

As already noted, distilled water works quite well.

And as always, shake till you think you've shaken it too much, then shake it some more.
dubik2005
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: June 14, 2010
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 06:48 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I assume you can clean up with water?Does anything work better? Windex,isopropyl alcohol

As Tarok already wrote, you clean brush with the water during paint session and use airbrush cleaner if you see some color on it after cleaning with water.
Regarding thinning ratio....It depends on your painting style. There are 2 (there are of course more, but these are quite popular) ways: slow color change - relatively thick paint (requires good sense of color), or very thin paint but colors can be completely different (requires a lot of patient and self control!).
This is the example of first approach:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMDWfDkap0w
and this is the example of second:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BY911xa_xOI&feature=related
In the first video thinning is about 1:1 or 1 part water to 2 parts paint in the second 6 parts water 1 part paint.
More you put water less you control where it goes, you have to unload most of the paint from it on a paper.


Quoted Text

My experience is similar to yours, however I found that thinning it with tap water caused it to seperate.

Good for you Paints separate because they have different densities, I don't think tap or distilled water matters that much anyway I'm now using fairly big brush raphael size 1, and I can steer paint a bit when it separates.
I also have to take back my words about reaper paints, they are rubbish.
Tarok
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 12:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Good for you Paints separate because they have different densities, I don't think tap or distilled water matters that much anyway I'm now using fairly big brush raphael size 1, and I can steer paint a bit when it separates.
I also have to take back my words about reaper paints, they are rubbish.


:) What works for some... You're probably right about the thinning ability (?) of the different types of water, however the chemicals and additives to tap water must surely have an effect on the paint. South African tap water (which is what I thinned with before changing to distilled) is very drinkable, but only because of all the stuff they add to it to make it thus.

Thanks for the comments on Reaper paints. I've been tempted to try them, but might give them a miss then. I'm somewhat partial to the GW/Citadel paints, except for the stupid, easy-spill container

Back to Jeff's question though... mate, I just found this article which may be of interest. Although more for the AB painter, it might be of use: Types of Thinners .
imatanker
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Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 01:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Good for you Paints separate because they have different densities, I don't think tap or distilled water matters that much anyway I'm now using fairly big brush raphael size 1, and I can steer paint a bit when it separates.
I also have to take back my words about reaper paints, they are rubbish.


:) What works for some... You're probably right about the thinning ability (?) of the different types of water, however the chemicals and additives to tap water must surely have an effect on the paint. South African tap water (which is what I thinned with before changing to distilled) is very drinkable, but only because of all the stuff they add to it to make it thus.

Thanks for the comments on Reaper paints. I've been tempted to try them, but might give them a miss then. I'm somewhat partial to the GW/Citadel paints, except for the stupid, easy-spill container

Back to Jeff's question though... mate, I just found this article which may be of interest. Although more for the AB painter, it might be of use: Types of Thinners .
Nice ,nice,nice ,nice ,nice.thanks too much.Just what I needed.Now I have something to work with.Thank again,Jeff
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