Mike Taylor wrote up a short article on washing/drybrushing armor and would like your feedback. You can see the article here.

Thanks Mike!

Cheers,
Jim

Nice lookin' Article Mike.

Yes good article. One suggestion for folks like me more pics and larger detail. the old eyes ain't what they was.

Very good article,yea more pic''s and closer { those old eyes again }.
How about a step by step walk around for paint washes and weathering?
Good job on the Pk 4.

ponysoldier

The horse The Gun The Man

I'm taking tons of photos -step by step- on the Panzer IV article I'm working on......

Thanks very much, Mike. I am struggling with this facet of detailing, and your article really helped. Much appreciated.

Mike

Yes I am struggling to with washes and dry brushing and a lot of guys on here.helped me so i thank every body

Simple and objective! Good in providing an overall view....but I guess he forgot to mention to spray a flat coat after finnished the washing....
Cheers!

Mike, I loved your article, it's really helpful. :-) One question...What type of paints do you use for your washes? I heard oil paints work well.

Thanks,
Mark

I've used oil paints but now I have an old Model masters bottle with "wash" written on the lable. It's filled with a mixture of about 80% thinner and 20% Model Master Burnt Umber. I'm up to about 20 photos for the Panzer IV article.........MG2/MT

Mike,

I would like to know what your wash is composed of. If several components, then how much of each, etc.

Also, what is your recommendation for brushes used for dry-brushing?

Thanks,

Dave

Jim, Maybe have a short video on the techniques listed. I know you are bored and have very little to do.

I use the washing thecnique that you discribe to give shadows and then with the drybrushing give light to the details, small and not so small ones.
But before applying the brillant cote I give a general wash to the vehicle using artist`s oil paint diluted with turp`s spirits. I repeat this operation as many times until the surface look the way I like. With this I obtain (in my opinion) a more realistic appearance of the surface of the vehicle. I have to be very careful in this process because the underlayer paint could be ruin with the turp thinner. When this is dry I apply oil paint with a soft brush with this it´s posible to obtain a metal looking of the surface. Then the future coat and the detail wasing.

Hi Mike, great article. I believe that each and every modeler has their own personal preferences. As for me I use enamels paints on my armor & aircraft exclusively, and also enamel & oil washes but I apply these solvent based washes directly over my enamel coats without clear coats. I always let my paint dry for 72 hrs then apply the wash. Doing it like this mean's I'm also applying my wash to a matte finish which I prefer rather than a glossed finish for applying washes over. I find I have better control with washes over a matte finish and less control and break-up of a wash over a gloss finish. I DO PUT ON 2 - 3 THIN COATS OF TESTORS DULLCOTE AS MY LAST & FINAL STEP FOR COMPLETING THE MODEL
.......My reason's for this approach is simple:
- Reduce the number of steps.
- Less layers of "surface build-up " - leaving more raised detail for pin washes and drybrushing. ( You might say to even play it safer, and since I don't apply protective clears, why don't I paInt my base coat with acrylic's ........... and the reason is because I don't like AIRBRUSHING acrylic's !!!!!!!!!!!!! - IMHO enamel's are made for airbrushing. I don't ever have to worry ...and I mean EVER, about a clogged nozzle with enamels. And I find enamels a lot easier to clean. ( I do use Vallejo acrylic's for brushing figure uniforms though ).

I agree what you said about using brown's for washes, but I can't see completely staying away from black or dark charcol/ dirty black ( Floquil Grimy Black ) shaded washes either. I find there are areas that would better benefit with them.
These are just my opinion's and preferences - as I really liked your article and thought it was "right on ". As a matter of fact I also thought your other articles were excellent ..... so good, that a while back I nominated you for "User of the Month " in the voting thread. And your model's show just how good your articles work !
REGARDS.


- ralph

A very clear and informative article, Mike! It's very usefull to read how other fellow modellers do their work. Maybe you can give me some tips and hints on using pastels.

Keep up the good work!
John.

Hi Mike , I'm kinda new to all this, can you tell me what is meant by giving it a coat or two of future to gloss it up? It maybe something obvious but I've not heard of this so please excuse my ignorance. #:-)
Cheers Kenny.

Good concise article. I completely agree with your opinion concerning "overall washes". I too, believe only in applying washes to details, as described in your article. I remember judging armor at my clubs contest and many of the vehicles had received overall washes. They looked like they had run thru burning oil fields The builders could not understand why they did not receive awards. I felt like taking a small stick and writing "wash me, please" on the rear of the tanks

Again, excellent advice.

Nice article, Its always nice to learn how others do things. I for one am always on the lookout for new ways to try things..

although more and larger pics would be nice.

future is a floor polish/wax. modelers like the acrylic glossy, dull, or semi-gloss coat it provides. future dries clear. there was an article in fine scale modeling about it. btw, great article. but the last step about the dullcoat was forgotten;) haha. one question tho, do u prefer testors dullcote or talc powder in future? just wondering which gives a better result. ive heard praise about both. im just unsure of the pros and cons

As I'm about to do a tank or two in the near future for the first time this little article is just what the doctor ordered. I'm sure I will ask a lot of questions when I start getting down and dirty.
Thanks Mike.
Cheers
Peter

Thanks for the article Mike.

It is quite timely seeing as I am getting to the point where I will be thinking about applying some of those techniques on the T-74 I am building.

thanks Mike nice lil thingie

What do you mean by "a good coat or two of future to gloss it up" ? - I have always used a flat matt varnish before washing and weathering - I have just started up my afv / diorama building after a gap of 15 years so I imagine techniques have moved on !

Good article Mike

I like the idea of drybrushing the model with shades of tan, instead if lighter shades of the basecolor. Would this apply to a "panzergrau" model as well as a "Green" model?

Very nice article indeed!