Fantastic......!

Agreed, the copies are coming out superb!

I'll make sure to keep an eye out for some of that resin Pedro

Hi to all.

Eddy, to use some pictures like a base, at less, you need a reference, distance or diameter. I think the best way is that you propose some pictures. I will try to explain a little "how to make" with pictures. Happy that some steps be useful for you.

Last week, I was working in AMT contest, (event of my association) so, I had not any free time to make my Little pavesi tolotti. This is a link about the models in the show. Special mention to Douglas Lee scene.
http://www.amttorrent.es/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=17645

SOLDERING P.E. PARTS.

Another important technique is to solder P.E. parts. For this, we must to have some important considerations.
1. Use a soldering iron not enought hot (14 W) and to keep the point always clean.
2. Different metals, need different temperature. Copper less than brass.
3. the tin, have a % of silver. More % of silver need more temperature. It is important because we can use tin with great % of plata in the ends and tin with less % of silver in the interior parts.
4. If we interpose a metal piece (tweezers for example) betwen soldered pieces, we protect another soldered pieces.

The main materials that we need.

Firts, we put a few "lacquer remover" in the parts that we need to solder.

Second. With a cutter, we cut little pieces of tin.

Third. We solder the tin in the pieces.

Fourth. We only need to add the two pieces and warm up with the soldering iron.

New pieces ready to make resin copies.

Resin copies.

The model almost finished.




Regards.

To be continue....

Simply amazing....

Pedro,

Your build is coming along and keeps getting better as you add more scratch built detailed items. You make it look so easy but a lot of what you are doing is beyond my current ability. However, that won't keep me from attempting to give your methods a try! I'm very pleased that you are taking the time and effort to share your artistry with all of us here on Armorama.

Thanks for posting and sharing the link to the photo gallery of the AMT contest you attended. I don't belong to any model clubs so yours is very impressive to me! I'm still going through the gallery and am happy to see so many talented modelers there in your community. Very professional set of photographs too!

Now let me find a photograph that you can use as reference to show us all how we could scale to it. I will post it soon, OK!

-Eddy

Hi to all.

Eddy, I wait your pictures.

This is my last post in this step by step. I think it have been enough long for me and modellers of this forum. Thanks very much to all for your supports, principally to Eddy. They have helped to me in the hard moments. My model is finished although I need to verify some details. I want to make two models. One with the 149 A gun (Spanish civil war) and another with the crane system (italian model).

In this step, I want to show how to make easy headlight glasses. we will use old marks of kits.

MAKING HEADLIGHT GLASSES

We make the form using a file.

We polish the from surface with the rear part of sandpaper.

We cut the piece with a homemade scriber

We polish the other side with the rear part of sandpaper too. Now, the glass is ready

Last pieces

All the pieces

General pictures






Best regards.

Pedro.

Hello Pedro,

Your build came out very nice and well detailed. You have showed us, in a very understandable way, many new ways to build our models.

In my new build I have already started to work with a CAD program in order to create parts from styrene sheets just the way you demonstrated.

I guess in time I will try casting my own parts as well.

It's always good to see people that are willing to spread and share their knowledge. Thank you very much. I would be glad to see the weathering process as well.

Best wishes, P.A.

Hi Pedro,

I would like to add my thanks and appreciation for the time and effort you've taken to share your techniques and methods with the rest of us.

I've been following this build with great interest since the very beginning, and I've learned many new things to add to my model-building "tool box" of skills.

Your work is not only exceptionally fine and detailed, but you have also demonstrated that you're a generous man and a very good teacher.

Sincerely,

Thanks again for sharing this with us Pedro, your project has set off all kinds of inspirational ideas in my head and I hope to start something in a couple of months here. I will definitely appreciate your input when I start my project

I hope that you will show us your final results when you are done adding the guns and painting them

Pedro

This tread looks like an icredibly clear and exhuastive tutorial.

Your job is simply fantastic.

Thanks to you, I've made my first resin copy. I've damaged a wheel of my Tamiya Willys jeep, so following your advises, I've decided to make a resin copy.
After two or three attemps all went very well.
It was fun indeed. I hope to improve and I hope I'll be able to apply this technique in scratchbuild projects

Thanks a lot and congrats and thanks a milion for sharing

Thanks Alexander, Mike, Jeremy and Mauro.

Jeremy, I wait your new project.

Making resin copies, I have had the possibility to make another model of the italian Pavesi tolotti, the crane version. This model is ready for paint and I am waiting to receive the 149A gun of Brach models to finish with these tractors.




Regards.

Pedro.

Pedro,

This project just keeps getting better and more interesting with each of your postings!

What type of material did you use for making the tarp and how did you go about to attach it to the wire frame. I noticed that you also made a rolled up tarp and hung it from the inside. In this scale it is very difficult to find tarps, and frame covers . . . so what I'm trying to say is please show us how you've created the cover and tarps for your vehicles.

-Eddy

BTW as soon as I am finished with my build project for the Braille Battlefield Campaign I will post a drawing here with a known wheel diameter for you to explain how you go about determining the measurements for the rest of the vehicle from the drawing. It is for a project that I would very much like to produce in both 72nd and 35th scale.

Wow, this tractor just keeps looking better each time you post!
I was wondering what you used for the crane rollers?

I'll have to wait a little longer to start my project, but I'm looking forward to it

Hi Eddy.

Well, It was not my last step by step.

To make canvas is very easy, I use Magic sculp and Duro in the same proportions. To attach it to the wire frame I normally do not use any thing. Using a brush with alcohol I adjust the canvas. When they hardens, they are fixed.











Please Eddy, an easy picture.

Jeremy, I used a mini drill to make the crane rollers.






Regards.

Pedro.

Impressive, thanks for the mini tutorials Pedro
I need to start getting some more tools so that I'm prepared when I have a chance to start my project...

Pedro,

Again, thanks so very much. I'll give this method a try on my next build as I am almost finished with my present build. The drawing I intend to post is a very simple line drawing basically showing the front view and side view but no dimensions are given, only the wheel diameter is known.

Your photos really help in conveying your idea across without having to use words to explain your process except when needed to clarify. This too is very handy way to post a build log!

-Eddy

Thanks friends.

The tractor with the 149A gun.










Regards.

Pedro.

Eddy: I look forward to seeing your scratchbuild(s)

Pedro: How many parts did you use to make the gun barrel?

Pedro,

I wasn’t sure what type of tractor you were creating until now that I see the main reason for its use as an artillery tractor. Artillery pieces don’t seem to get their far share on the manufactures list of kits to make for the modeler. Both the tractor and the artillery piece that you have scratch built are very impressive models and sure spark the imagination for building these type of pieces and placing them on a small vignette or simply just stand alone as they are very well detailed and capture the viewers attention. You are a very talented and extremely patient person.

Your colleges in the modeling group that you posted earlier are most fortunate in having you as a friend, modeler and teacher. Life is so short and time goes by so quickly that we sometimes forget how wonderful and lucky we are to come across someone else with the same interest and willing with open arms to share what they have come to know and understand to make this hobby a better one for everyone involved.

Here is the simple line drawing that I had mentioned that I would post along with a front view drawing of the same subject. I found both of these on the Internet. I’m very interested in knowing how you would go about determining the dimensions as I would like to scratch build this vehicle. The only known dimension are the road wheel diameters as these are the same as used on the Tiger II and I believe that they are 800mm in diameter? The black and white scale on the front view may be representative of equal lengths of 1 meter? You can attend to them at your leisure as I am in no way trying to detract you from your endeavor here. Any assistance that you could provide me with would be very much appreciated.





Jeremy, I'll make sure to PM you when I get ready to attempt a scratch build on this beast! You have my word on that!

Again, thanks for posting, sharing and keeping this build log going!
-Eddy

Hi Pedro. Amazing scratchbuilding. Thanks very much for sharing your techniques and tips. The vehicles are amazing creations and I can´t wait to see them painted.

Thanks Frank. Soon I will begin with the paint.

Jeremy. I bought the gun to Brach model but the resin copies was very bad, so I needed to remake some pieces. The barrel is one of the pieces that I have used.

Eddy, this isn't a good example to make drawings because it isn't a real picture with a real measure. I only can to re-drawings to this, trying to eliminate the mistakes. I have been reading about this tank. He had the Tiger II like a base. This drawings with real pictures or drawings about Tiger II are a good reference.
Do you know the model of Calum Melrose? I have found another references useful to make the drawings, although I'm sure Calum has a good drawings.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/calummelrose/5529699003/in/set-72157626274447034#/
http://www.taringa.net/posts/apuntes-y-monografias/9107070/sobre-tanques-raros_-prototipos_capturados-nro-4.html

Regards.

Pedro.

Pedro,

I have to agree with you as I had been struggling with this line drawing for some time and just could not come up with something workable enough to proceed with this project. Until your timely post I did not know the model of Calum Melrose. I really appreciate you posting this link for me and for any other interested modelers here. To my delight, from the links that you provided, I discovered that a workable set of line drawings exists on one of the Panzer Tracks series of books. I was unaware that the lines drawings were readily available making my task of producing this vehicle a reality, many thanks to you! I went ahead and ordered a copy for myself just last night and should have it before the end of this week.

From the link that you provided of Calum Melrose’s model I notice that he had compiled and reduced the 35th scale line drawing from the book down 43% to 72nd scale. Of course until I have a copy of the book in my hands I am just assuming that the line drawing are in 35th scale? I also don’t know if sets of lines drawing are provided with an overhead view of the vehicle? However, if the front and side views are consistent to 35th scale I should not have a problem with producing my own overhead view. With the exception of the layout for the overhead rear engine deck and forward crew compartment as well as the rear view of the vehicle but a little guesswork into what would have been available then would be in order.

Calum Melrose’s rendition of this tank via the line drawing sets is very well constructed and detailed. One of the pieces that had been puzzling me was the main gun, and although the drawings depict a sectional tube gun barrel, he hit it right on the nail with use of the Sturer Emil 128mm main gun, as this would have been available around the time period of the vehicles design.

Pedro, I have sent you a message to your Armorama inbox. Although it is much appreciated I don’t wish to highjack your build log here with this project. I think that it would be best left for a posting of its own in the very near future.

-Eddy

Hi Pedro

Brilliant work, and very thoughtful of you to show techniques you employed to create such excellent scratch built models. I don't think that I've ever seen better scratch built work. Thanks for sharing it with us.

(and Eddy good luck with your project)

cheers
Neil

Thanks Neil.

Eddy, another link with rear and top views. This evening, I will send you a mail.

http://strangevehicles.greyfalcon.us/PANZERKAMPFWAGEN%20VII%20LOWE.htm

Regards.

Pedro.

Although I think I’m not the most indicated modeller in order to explain how to paint a model, here I’m. I prefer building over painting .

I began the first paint step in my model. The paint base with some airbrush effects using different greens and XF-64. They will be useful in the next steps (filters, washings, etc...).

For the base, I have used the paint that I prepared for my spanish tank Verdeja 1. I’m not a great fan of modulation (professional defect. I supose). In fact, I have never used this technique. However, I think over some colours this technique can be nice. I want to make my two tractors with different points of view, so I’ll make one of they using the modulation. It’ll be curios to see the models with the same painting process but with and without modulation. I don’t know if I have choosen the correct sides and the correct colour. Some modellers think that, I haven’t any idea painting models, so it will be my artistic licence . I want to remember that we aren’t profesionals and the most important purpose is only to enjoy .

In this case, all comments are welcome.



Two models with and without.


Regards. Pedro.