Matt, Hakan, thanks very much.

Yesterday I had a relaxing day. I went to see Roger Waters's concert "The Wall"

Jeremy, choose the model, so we can to see the necesary modifications that you need.
Eddy, any problem with your pictures.

Regards. Pedro.

Pedro,

No problem with the pictures. I have finished all of the casting and will post pictures tomorrow night. Just been busy with so many other things lately that it has been difficult to find enough time for modeling . . . my favorite pass time. Hopefully all of these things will change soon and I can again get back to modeling more regularly.

-Eddy

Pedro,

Finally here are the photos of my first attempt to cast parts.


The RTV from Alumilite's Mini Casting Kit with mold box and wavy exhaust shroud and gas pump box. (The gas pump box is from a resin kit).




My first cast resin parts. So easy even a cave man like myself can do it!


Wavy exhaust shrouds on the kit.

I had fun making these tiny items! Thanks so much for the inspiration and your step by step photos. It's not as hard as I had imagined. As a matter of fact it's very easy.

-Eddy

Hi Pedro, congrats, stunning work indeed, and thanks a lot for sharing with us your tips

Me too i'm going to try a simple mold casting

I'd liko to know how you attach the pieces to reply on the deep of your formwork. (I'm asking the same question to Eddy, who has moulded really nice parts in my opinion)

I'm thinking to use silly putty (such as UHU blue tack) because I wouldn't ruin the original parts (and that's the reason why I can't use CA or plastic glue). Would it be correct this way?

Thanks in advance for your reply


Cheers

Hi Eddy. Congratulations. Excellent piece and resin copies. Not like my firts resin copies. (Nice T-34 too)
Mauro. It is a good idea. I normally use plastic glue to fix my pieces although I put a very little amount. Nevertheless, you can use Blue tack, white glue or nothing (if the piece is very big). Remember, you only need to keep the piece in the formwork.

Now, I am finishing the down chassis in order to make resin copies.

Regards. Pedro.

Mauro,

For the tiny pieces to stay attached to the bottom of the box I used a glue stick for paper. Pedro's list would also work fine.

Thanks Pedro! I used a sewing needle to help remove the trapped air bubbles around the edges of the small parts (bolts). You get a very limited amount of time to do this with the Alumilite casting resin.

-Eddy

Pedro,
did you pay to the insurance to bring safe your hands?

Your progression is amazing and quite simple to understand the steps but not so to made.
I also getting used to draw the plan by pc but you corel drawings are also superb, I tried to use it but is not so user friendly as designer, I have to learn a lot.

About the model I will follow your wip it was one of my project not started for lack of documentation because the book I have is not enough.

Dario
See my last project:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/158871

Pedro, Eddy thanks a lot to both of you for you kind replies

I hope this next week end I'll be able to do my moulds

Cheers and congrats again for your stunning works

Thanks for posting. Great work! Outstanding!
I like your models very much!

Cheers

Daniel, Dario, thanks for looking.

Good work Dario. I began this model with a few pictures and the book "Le machine di Pavesi". Luckyly, I have obtained new pictures and information. Your draisine is very nice. Railways are my second hobby. What plastic have you used in your model? I will follow your work with great interest.

I follow with my little tractor. Finally I have made resin copies about the chassis and final steps. Now I will make the upper hull.
Chassis finished

Final steps with the molds

The chassis in the box ready to make the mold

Original chassis with they resin copy.


Regards. Pedro.

Pedro,

This project is coming along with lot of fine detailed parts and all of it by hand! Made even more interesting by the scale your building it to. I really enjoy working in this scale and it is my personal favorite flavor.

@caragd , Thanks for sharing your scratch built railcar. I noticed that you mentioned that an Italian company was coming out with this railcar in resin. I had just made a mold of the wavy exhaust shrouds for my 72nd scale T-34/85 when I came across a company that has just produced these items in resin too! Now if we could get every one here to scratch build and post there own rendition of a kit they’d like to see made in plastic by the kit manufactures instead of the same subjects produced again and again they may just pay more attention to what they bring out to the market place? Just my 2 cents.

I will be going out to obtain a new set of eyeglasses and will be asking for a prescription set for close up work as I am no longer able to spend as much time at the work bench without my eyes giving up before my motivation does. After spending some time at the bench it has become harder and harder to get my eyes back in focus.

-Eddy

What beautiful work! I'm amazed at the talent that this site has participating on it.

Pedro....just fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We have many artists here and you are among the best.

Congratulations.

Jeff

Jeff, Eddy, many thanks.

I follow with the model.

From axis resin copies.



WORKING EASY WITH RESIN COPIES

If we want to eliminate the spout I can to use a cutter or a homemade scriber.



We have bought a beautiful resin model but it has a lot of little bubbles.



The best way is to use instant glue.



Final step after you have sandpapered the model.



We want to glue plastic pieces.

We can to glue only with tamiya/humbrol cement. The piece will be perfect fixed. We can to use instant cement later, if the pieces are big.




Regards.

To be continue....

Eddy, have you gotten your eyeglasses?

The upper chassis ready to make resin copies.







Regards.

Pedro.

Hi Pedro

very inspirational to see your work, shows amazing skills, thanks for showing us

cheers
Neil

Incredible......Just watching......

@PedroA,

Your skills are far beyond mine and most of us here. So it is with much appreciation and gratitude from me and I'm sure all of us here who are currently following your step by step build log to have you take the time to show us how the masters do it!

I have already added to my own meager skills by watching and putting to practice some of the techniques that you have used to produce the parts that you will be using in the construction of your Pevesi-Tolotti type B. Thus enhancing my enjoyment in this hobby that much more.

Thank you so very much,
-Eddy

P.S. I have an appointment this coming weekend for my eyeglasses!

Pedro: The copies look like they are coming out really nice, what resin are you using?

Eddy: Awesome! Look forward to seeing some of your work

Mindblowing stuff!!

P.A.

Hi Pedro,

It just gets better and better, I don't know if I could ever do this level of work, but if it wasn't for your inspiration I wouldn't even be tempted. Thank you so much for all this wonderful inspiration.

All the best,

Paul

Thanks friends.

I had used my time very good if this post is useful for all the modellers.
In this moment, I have finished my slow work. Finaly I have resin copies about all the mainly pieces of the model. I could use the original pieces (like in my Nash) but in this step by step I want to show, not only how to make a scratch, also how to make a resin model from zero

Jeremy, I use polyester resin. http://www.glaspol.net/. I buy this in my city.

Radiator and engine compartment

Driver compartment and rear box

All the resin copies


Regards.

Pedro.

WOW

I hope you are taking us through the painting and weathering steps as well.


P.A.

Thanks Daniel, Alexander.

Finished the resin copies, is the moment in order to test our work.
The first five pieces in their site.

With wheels.




We can to be happy. They seems right.

Regards.

Pedro.

Pedro,

Your castings look terrific and bubble free. Looks like your on the way to building at least two tractors.

With your method of building and reproducing the parts again in resin one could produce a basic master and use that to build all of the different variants to any given vehicle! Provided of course one has access to a good set of photographs covering all sides of the subject. Would you happen to know how to scale off of a photograph? And could you show us how that is done?

Earlier here on page 1 you featured a photograph of your homemade scribers for cutting out circles and then on this page you mentioned using these to remove the resin casting spout / block. I didn’t know how I was going to go about removing all twenty of the casting spouts from a set of resin wheels and came back here to reread your post. I want to thank you for sharing your methods with us as I was able to go about this task with ease and little effort in a very short period of time and have all of the wheels readied for final cleaning and filling of air bubbles. I made a set of scribers as per your photograph and attached one to a shortened X-acto blade handle and I was in business! Your tip for filling and cementing also came in handy.

Again thanks so much for sharing. If ever there was a modeler’s online school for scratch building, this is it and I’m loving it! Wishing you and your family a happy Easter!

-Eddy