Really avesome!


congrats!

Pedro, I check this thread on and off but for the most part it's far beyond my current skill levels. On the other hand it really shows what can be done in Braille and you explanations are super. I will follow your painting with great interest.

Regards,
AJ

hi

Something i can see here i can´t belive.
That is modelling at his finest.
Great build and a good painting so far.

Greeting Daniel

It's good to show us the painting and weathering proccess as well.
Good idea to try different approaches with the twins.
From what I've seen, you are extremely talented in painting too.
Good luck.

P.A.

Pedro,

You most certainly have a style about you! The colors, the colors, oh the colors. This is were the use of colors separates the model from looking like a painted model or fooling the eye into seeing it as it would be in reality. In this small scale that is a very difficult thing to do and even more so if not for someone teaching you the basics of how color changes over distance verses scale. I’m still learning and have a long ways to go. But it’s not impossible this journey and I’ve met some really wonderful people along the way especially here on this site including you the small scale master with the voodoo magic making it appear larger than life!

Here you are also learning with us a new method of color and your doing it with one of your masterpieces. So we all will be learning something new together. I also like the building part better than I do the painting but I believe this is because I have not put in as much time in developing a painting method or experimenting with colors and techniques as I have with my building process and that too is changing. I have only a few kits under my experience with my current method of painting and that continues to change with every build.

Your two examples have only the beginning touches and already they are beginning to fool the eye. . . all eyes are watching wide open!

Fun, you bet it is!

-Eddy

For anyone interested in scale lighting here is a link with some very good insight.

And a current topic on color modulation here

Pedro, I have followed you builds here in this forum and as others have noted, find them absolutely fascinating and filled with food for thought. Even if some of the skills or methodology are currently beyond some of our grasp, your detailed explanations with accompanying images cannot but set a least a few goals for us to attempt to achieve.

Cheers,
Jan

Hi Pedro

its been a real treat to read and see your work & progress, and your paint job looks like its going to do your first class build justice

cheers
Neil

Thanks friends.

We follow with the next step. Over the paint base, We will paint the rubbing and oxides.
First picture with Vallejo 886 green grey, second picture, 872 chocol. brown.

Metallic parts with Vallejo 886 green grey + 872 chocol. Brown.
Wood. Vallejo 886 green grey + 876 brown sand + 819 iraqui sand.

Some pieces.


Regards. Pedro.

Small graphic step.



Regards. Pedro.

Hi Pedro

very nice effects with your paintjob

the worn wood showing through on the wheel spokes is very convincing

and the oxidization on the wheel rim is about the best I've seen

cheers
Neil

Pedro,

I now find some time today! First I would like to thank you for your inspiration and your dedication to teaching us the ways of magic!

I must agree with Neil, about the worn out paint on the wooden wheels and oxidation on the wheel rim, very realistic and true to scale. It takes a lot of discipline and practice to keep the paint chipping with the darker colors to a minimum and to know where on the vehicle this effect would most likely happen.

The method it seems would be to paint with base color (lightened for scale).

Then highlight the base color on the raised portions of the subject having the greatest contact with the sun.

Use a contrasting lighter shade of the base color to depict worn, scratched and lightly chipped areas.

Use a dark chocolate brown to depict heavily worn out and chipped paint.

Then tying all of the colors together by using an appropriate filter (transparent color).

For the oxides first go dark – black mixed with chocolate brown at a 50% percent mix ratio.

Use a contrasting lighter shade of the mixed black / brown color, in this case orange brown.

Then highlight the contrasting color with a lighter shade of the same color, in this example orange fire.

Am I going in the right direction?

-Eddy

Those wheels look superb Pedro!

I was wondering, what setting(s) do you use on your airbrush when painting braille models?

I was also wondering if you know of a good source of blueprints for tracked or wheeled tractors?

Thanks again for your detailed break down and explanations of your project

Thanks friends.

Well, well, well. Today, I begin my real holidays. Sun, beach and beer. . This will be my last step until last week of July.

Neil. For the oxidization I have use a dampened sponge of paint with a lot of water.
Eddy. You are right with the steps. Have you received my mails with lowe links?
Jeremy. I always use a 0,2 paasche airbrush. Sorry but I don't know any source of blueprints.

Washes



Oils weathering



I don't like to make a strong weathering and Although we perhaps don't see the effects correctly (picture light), in the model the effect are visible.



Regards. Pedro

Hi Pedro
Perfect work, I admire you for details of the processing power. This is impressive.
Thank you to share

Greetings
Blackwater

@PedroA – Pedro,

I have wondered about this step, as I could not see much of an effect to the painted model as in previous postings. And here is what I have concluded:

In this step (Washes) you have applied a dark transparent wash over the model before going on to the next step, is this correct? And in the second phase of this step (Oils Weathering) you have used the dot method, where you would add the darker oils to those areas where you want to emphasize shadow and lighter oils to areas where you would want to emphasize highlights? I do understand about how lighting for taking the photographs would effect and dilute the transparency of both the dark washes and oil weathering.

Both of these effects can be and usually are very subtle when photographed due to the lighting and this may be reason enough for the lack of response to this part of your step-by-step posting. But when viewed directly with the human eye it is very noticeable. This step is very important as it ties in all of the colors that have already been applied. Am I following you correctly here?

As always it us much appreciated, waiting for more . . .
-Eddy

Thanks friends.

Eddy you are right but washes are not transparent. Firts I dampen the zone with diluent and later , I apply the washes only in rivets, grooves, etc. You can eliminate the rest of the washes with diluent and a brush.

Finished my holidays, I follow with oil weathering in my models. While the model is drying, I have made a new step by step.

MAKING WELD SEAMS

I know three methods in order to make weld seams. For this scale, I think the method C is the best. We need small weld seams and using stretched plastic of the sprues, we can to choose the correct thickness.

A. With a soldering iron
B. With two components putty
C. With stretched plastic of the sprues


First. We stuck the plastic with thinner (for example, three different thicknesses)
Second. We put much thinner on the plastic and we wait one or two minutes.

Third. With a cutter we mark the wead seams on the plastic.

Fourth. With liquid putty, we equaled the wead seams.


Regards. Pedro.

Hi Pedro, welcome back,

Thanks for posting this simple yet effective way of producing weld seams.

P.A.

OK, I see it now! I should have gone back to look at the photographs that you had posted earlier to compare them to the ones you posted with the washes.

@PedroA – Pedro,

Welcome back from your vacation , hope you and your family enjoyed your time together.

Thanks for posting your method for making weld seams. I hadn’t thought about using liquid putty to blend in the edges, I’ll have to go back and add this to my current build. I have diluted Squadron’s white and green putties with Testors liquid cement for filling in seams on corners and to fill hard to reach areas, now I have another use for this method using the liquid putty.

Thanks again for posting another one of your magic tricks!
-Eddy

Thanks Alexander, Eddy.

I follow with the weathering of my model. Before I put the wheels and finish the tractor, I have made a slight covered with dust using the technique of my friend Joaquin García. This is the second time that I use and I have a lot to learn. Also, I have painted the seat and tools.
In this link, you can to see the technique perfectly:
http://panzernet.com/foros/showthread.php?t=7128&page=2


Regards. Pedro

@PedroA – Perdro,

The dusting on your vehicle is very subtle but effective and looks very realistic. Could you tell us how you went about creating the worn leather effect on the seats?

Thanks for sharing and posting the link to the technique you used to achieve the dusting. Your friend Joaquin García’s tank is stunning and very realistic looking. I read through the entire posting and noted that one of the modelers posted something to the matter of shooting pigments through the airbrush to get an even more realistic effect? There is so much more to learn and try. The fun keeps growing and getting more exciting!

-Eddy

Eddy. Joaquin is one of the best modellers in Spain. For the seats, I have used two colours. Vallejo 950 black for the base and 872 chocol brown for the effects.

Well, My first model is finished. There are a great resistance betwen upper and down but I think it is the best for this tractor.




Regards. Pedro

It's really incredible....Well done Pedro.....

Amazing. You cant say it's 1/72 from the pics. Weathering is subtle yet effective.

P.A.

Thanks Hakan, Alexander.

The crane is finished. With these pictures, I finish my step by step. During six months, I have been with you, making this model. Thanks to all for your patience, replies and support.



Crane charge.

The two models, with and without modulation.


Regards. Pedro

Pedro,

This build and your pictures and commentary have been nothing short of superb.
I cannot personally see myself achieving anything like this, any time soon. I would also like to personally offer my sincere thanks to you for sharing this with the community and answering all my and the others questions so fully.

Thanks,
Jan