Horst, not bad so far, keep it up, one point is i think your wash is to thick, next time try a pin wash to pick out the details seperately, as this gives a more refined look than an overall sludge wash, i find washing over a matte surface yeilds better results, matte or satin anyway, gloss leaves the surface a little uncontrolable and the liquid tends to go all over the place as opposed to in recesses e.t.c,
hope this helps!

Hey Bill...
There is a shelf that the shell racks/radio is sitting on that runs the entire length of the armor shield which is mirrored on the other side(see 7th pic above) so when you cut the hull it is supposed to sit flush with this shelf.
as for the cut out for the armored visor i dont have in front of me right now
but if i remember it will be somewhat hidden i will check when i get home
and get back to you...


Thankyou James for your encourgement and advice.
I am learnig all this stuff as i go. I am a newbie and i have never done some of these processes that you guys mentioned. i have alot of studying to do before i start weathering tho outside.
Please note that i thought that to get the wash/decals to flow/set properly i had to use a gloss coat. if i am to use a flat cant i just go without the clear coat process altogether?
Sorry for my lack of terminology and expierance

REGARDS AND RESPECTFULLY

HORST

Horst, the clear coat is primerially used to seal in decals, some people do wash over gloss, but i find it does not control the was as well as i would like.
i use a picture used for an example of mud, but it is one of the few photos i have of a sealed decal with (oil) washes


the sealing of the deacal helps to stopp the shine you get when just sliding it onto a m att finish and leaving it, also the gloss wayers protect the basecoat.
i ( when i spray) apply a matt coat before washing and overall weathering.
i hope that helps, in essence, its what you find easy and gives the results for you that you need to look out for.
dont apologise for lack of experience! the learning can be the fun part. !

Horst - I understand what you're saying now. Thank you. As for painting and weathering, I agree with James's comments above. At the risk of confusing you, though, there are different ways to go. If I want to use the kit decals, then I do pretty much the same thing as James. In cases like this where the markings are generic, I use dry transfers instead. Rather than this:

- Prime
- Spray acrylic base coat
- Spray Future as decal prep
- Apply decals
- Spray Future to seal decals
- Spray matt to "flat" the finish
- Continue with weathering

I can simply do this:

- Prime
- Spray (acrylic) base coat + satin varnish
- Apply dry transfers
- Continue with weathering (non-acrylic)

It's faster and it requires fewer coats on the model (which might obscure details). The products commonly used for weathering (enamels, oils, etc.) don't affect the base coat because they're not acrylic and the dry transfers are robust enough not to need protection like decals.

Hi all
another quick but small update, but first i have a better pic.of the interior
armored visor.

that is for your reference Bill! sorry i took solong to get back we are really busy at work.
anyway i filled the gaps with putty abd started to sand them i also attached the
tarpaulin rings on the sides.
does anybody have a good way tosand in tight spots i am usung a fine fileset
but i dont know it is going pretty slow.







oh and i also drilled out the exhaust!!!

Thanks for looking and see you all soon.
Horst is out

yo Horst, getting some more porgress done i see.
what filler are you using? the best way to have done that, would to have filled the gaps, then, using nail varnish remover, whilst the putty was still wet, wipe the excess away, its better to add little at a time than plaster it and sand, this way you can lose detail, the safest way to sand away your putty would be to, either carefully cut as much away with a scalpel as you can, then using some fine 1200 sandpaper, file away carefully. really try to take time and take a lot of care with your building, your results would improve tenfold!
this is the best i can give you advise wise.
hope this helps,

Hi James
Thanks for your responce.
I used a putty from a company called Molak Stucco from Italy.
I need to get some good tools to apply this stuff. I used my exacto blade
on this one... i also let it cure overnite and as you point out i should have
cleaned it up better while it was still workable this i did not know but i will the next time i try this.
May i ask what tools do you guys use to apply filler to gaps.
Again thanks for taking the time to answer my questions i do appreciate it.

Horst is out

if the gap is large, use sheet styrene, cut a little strip and put it in. , other methods are superglue ( thick, and sparingly applied) or the one i use, milliput white, it can be worked with water so i just dip a q tip into warm water and run it over where i filled the gap.
there is a good thread on aeroscale that i will try to dig up for you on filling seam and gaps!

https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/111677&page=1

Hey James thanks for the link.
There is definetly alot of info out there if you know where to look.
Well i would like to continue with the gun.It was very easy to build
and when i painted it i also chipped it along with the interior of the fighting compartment.
I hope you all like it.











And now for the paint/chip/wash.
Oh yeah James i diluted the wash a bit to tone it down.




And here is the interior please note that i still will have to dullcoat it and then dust it.







And the rear shot after my attempt at filling and sanding exercise that i will
get right on the next project.

Thanks everybody so far for your encourgement, help and avice
see you all soon.
Regards
Horst

the filled area looks better, good job on the filing! the chips look a bit large but still work! have you heard of the sponge technique?
whats up next?

Nice work, Horst. Thanks for all the interior photos - very helpful as I try to piece mine together. So far I've found it to be straightforward in terms of parts count and construction but problematic in terms of parts clean-up and fit. Any interest in doing Dragon's recent release of this kit?

Hey James i am glad you like it. (the sanding took a while) i wont do it that way again.
I have heard of the sponge technieque but i do not think anybody has posted
a tutorial on it. I just used a small brush and dabbed in places it came out pretty good sometimes the pics dont do it justice.
The next stop will be to mount the gun i will then finish putting on the back doors and finish up the front gun cradle. then i have not decided ir i will camo it
or just leave it dark yellow but i will have to decal it first and then i want to try this thing called a dot filter which looks pretty cool.
And as for you Mr. Bill thanks for your your help also through this build.
i will get the new kit eventually my stash is bigger than me and i have a full plate. after this build . I will also be putting this sig into a diorama that i am cooking up right now. nothing final but it will be involved in a Kursk scene.
i will post hopefully sooner than later.

Horst is out

Hello everyone i am sorry for not posting for a long time,
With Easter and Mothers day and life outside i am happy to report on my
progress.
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0028.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0030.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0031.jpg
this was the part that i was dreading because i am not skilled with brass
not to mention i lost a part but unbelievably it came out good.
you just have to do it and let it fly.
anyway here are my progress pics i hope you will find them useful for
tips and comments.
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0004.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0007.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0009.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0011.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0014.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0016.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0017.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0018.jpg
At this time i needed a driver because this SIG will be put into a dio.
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0021.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0022.jpg
i painted him and set him inside the hull and contiued to construct and
finish up with my decaling and installing the tapulin rods and cross bar.
and then finally dullcoated it.
and want to shout out a big thanks to Decalcomaniacs for there beautiful decal sheet of german infantry divisions.
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0025.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0050.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0045.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0040.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0038.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0035.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0034.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0033.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/HORST_HOPF/FINAL%20ASSY/SANY0027.jpg
this last picture is out of order it should have been at the start of this segment oh well i hope you will find my progress o.k.
my next step willbe this thing called a dot filter and dry brush and wash.
till the next post
regards
Horst

this is a test sorry for the foo pa

Sorry i forgot how to post pics been so long !!!!
they are out of order i hope you willnot mind
i will post soon
Horst is out

Not to worry Horst, keep the photos coming!

I keep looking at mine and wondering if I'm ready to tackle it yet

Go for it Jeremy it is a good kit i would suggest you to get some Magic Tracks
for it because the kit supplied ones are a real bear to construct...
You know i noticed that you are involved in the future Artillery Campaign
and this would be a good subject to enter.
Just a suggestion, Anyway thanks for looking and commenting. I still
need to get better picture quality out of my camera another thing to improve on
ie better lighting/tripod.
Horst is out

Horst, where ya been man? I've been wandering in the desert with mine while I wait for an update. Just kidding.

You did a nice job with the front hull. There's a lot there and the instructions aren't exactly clear. I almost missed the fender brackets on mine because they're practically hidden in the instructions.

On the interior, I notice you've got the same issue as me ... gaps where the two side shields meet the hull. Nothing putty can't solve, of course, but it's irritating that it can't be avoided even with careful construction. The parts just aren't engineered very well. I'm praying for a decent fit once I go to glue because I don't think I have the patience to address this.

The only thing I disagree with you on is the quality of this kit. I think it stinks. The parts lack detail and require a lot of clean-up, the instructions are more like suggestions, and the tracks (if you choose to use them) need to be cut off and cleaned up one-by-one. If I ever build another Grille Ausf. H, it will be with the new Dragon kit.

Hey Bill glad you made it!!!
I do think that this kit is definetly obsolete compared to the new offering.
but it is a good subject to cut your teeth on before going for the newer one.
Thanks for all your help and comments on this project. I am sorry that you are having trouble with your Fruil tracks on your build, I have been following your post i would have also recommended the magic tracks they are really great
but i understand your dilemma with the installed fenders. what is the status?
YOU GOT TO POST SOME PICS!!! I would like to see them.
Thanks for responding to this latest post i am about to do that dot filter effect that you directed me to earlier. It does not look to complicated i will post as soon as i can

Regards
Horst

This kit can be useful to test your basic building skills, but at the end of the day it's a lot of work to spruce up an old kit. The only reason I'm building it is an acquaintance asked me to. Not to be completely negative, it has been a good introduction to open topped AFV's without overwhelming detail.




If I had followed the instructions and attached the tracks before the fenders, I wouldn't have a problem. In fact, I'd be done by now. Oh, well ... live and learn. My punishment is to drill out 180 links.




I will once I get the tracks squared away.




Good luck with this - it's a bit scary to dot your freshly assembled model with oil paints, but you'll get the hang of it quickly. Keep posting pics so folks can give you feedback.

Hey everybody i have a question that i had asked before but i did not see any responce, so here it is again.
Does anybody know how this gun was operated by that i mean how did the fire this gun.
Was there a trigger or did theY pull a chord i have not been able to find any info
on the web and would appreciate any direction.
I will get more progress pics this weekend thanks again.
Regards
Horst

Do not use Enamels for Dot filters...
I almost had a heart attack after i applied the dots. I went for the big brush
to feather them and those little dots just stayed where the were.
I was pissed to say the least.
O.K. get the spirits and remove said dots.
I ended up using the only oil paint that i have in my limited supplies
a Burnt Umber color and did the dot filter with it instead. it came out
pretty good. At least i was able to blend in in. I will let it dry overnight and dust her tomorrow.
Here are some pics so far comments are always welcome.










Regards
Horst

That's a good point, I hadn't even thought of that. I think I may do just that. Mine is actually the newer kit, and if memory serves me correctly the only issue is that the fenders are too flat.

You are right about using the acrylic enamels as dot filters, they just dry too darn fast for them to be workable. You did a pretty good job recovering and working with limited resources. You may want to think about rusting up the exhaust and adding a dirty looking wash to the tracks.

I'll see if I can't find out something useful about how the gun is fired.

I can't really find anything concrete ATM, but you may want to look at these 3D renderings of the Sig 33 on the Bison.

Bison 3D Model

The gun is pretty advanced, so I don't think that it would have used a chord.

Perhaps Frenchy will unexpectedly drop by with just the right photo to answer your question.

Hey Jeremy
Thanks for responding i believe that you are right about there being no
chord to pull i will proceed in that direction.
It will be a while before i can finalize the gun crew to fit inside the compartment.
But the major work i think is done on the kit construction.
For the enamel paint problem i was warned ahead of time not to use them
but i had already bought them and did not want to waste them if i could.
I think that if i had used a stiff brush it would have worked but thats one more thing that i need for my stash.
You learn as you go!!!! aint that right uhha!
I will try and finish her up today and post the final pics later.
Oh by the way the fenders on this kit are also pretty flat but seemed to work out o.k. i left them undamaged i have not tried to add battle damage yet to models only damage is that caused bt my inexpierance lol!!!!
Horst is out