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Academy M3A1
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 07:54 AM UTC
After my 1st armor build of the M4A1 DV Sherman that was built OOB, I wanted to take the next step, and do a few detailed armor models. Hopefully they would be good enough to enter in next year's IPMS regional convention that will be held here on Long Island New York. With both of those goals in mind, I decided that doing a build thread here would offer me the constructive feedback I really need, and to keep me on the right track. I've decided to go with one of the early Stuarts, as I've always liked those little light tanks. My choice is the Academy M3A1 Stuart model #1398. I also ordered the Eduard PE set #EU35543 from the Squadron Shop, and Steve Zaloga's book on the M3/M5 series, but not his modeling the Stuart book, as it had a lot of information on correcting the old Tamiya kit. Now that I've gotten my book. As I've gotten into the build, I've decided that having Zalogo's build book would be a very wise decision, and have thus ordered it.

As part of my research, I've done dozens of Google searches, and found more information that I thought was out there, including a few Stuart M3 builds that offered up a lot of kit corrections to the Academy kit.. To that end I need to give much credit to Zsolt Marvany's build.

I started my build with the 4 main bogie's. the bogie's have several molding errors. that I tried to correct.
The top track guides are too thick and needed to be thinned out especially from the inside to make them appear larger.
The duel shock plate? has a notch on both sides that Academy didn't mold in.
There is a 3rd bolt hold the wheel arms that needed to be added.
The backing plate to the wheel bolster needed to be added.





The real deal


And my re-worked bogie's




The Idle wheel arm is completely wrong. The real deal again.



The kit part


With the front plate added that is also completely wrong


The arm correction started

And finished


This is as far as I've gotten. Will finish adding all the little misc. parts to the lower hull, then prime & paint the lower hull, bogie's, and the Idle arm assemblies. Then install them.

Feel free to add any and all corrections I missed or did wrong. I'll try my best to re-due what I can, and or explain why I did or didn't opt to do something.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 12:53 PM UTC
Commendable job. Personally, I don't have the patience to fix the older stuff, so both of the M3/M5 series tanks I've built, I've used the AFV Club suspensions. Much newer, more crisp, and more accurate bits.

Make sure you take a look at primeportal.net

Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, July 10, 2011 - 05:07 AM UTC
I've been working on the interior from the point of view that both the judges and anyone for that matter would be viewing the interior strictly from the hatches. With the turret basket and its associated equipment, you're just not going to be able to see much, even if you use a magnifying glass. Most likely the detailing of the turret basket will be the interior focal point.

I also decided to be a little heavy handed, so that the details back on the bulkhead would be easier to see. With that in mind, I enlarged the duel radiators some,and will paint the hoses a brownish black as I've seen in some restoration photos instead of white as I've seen in others.



retiredyank
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Posted: Sunday, July 10, 2011 - 07:20 AM UTC
This was my first model upon returning to the hobby. It is a nice little kit and I look forward to seeing your corrections. I was just happy it went together easily and included indi tracks. Speaking of which, I didn't use. Let me know if you need some extras and I'll ship no charge.
errains
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Posted: Sunday, July 10, 2011 - 08:08 AM UTC
Really Nice Job Joel

Good eye for detail! This little beauty is on my to do list, So I'll be watching to see how you tackle this one.

BTW Forget the what the Judges can see and think just build for your own satisfaction. Once I did that my enjoyment in the hobby grew Exponentially!!
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, July 10, 2011 - 09:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

This was my first model upon returning to the hobby. It is a nice little kit and I look forward to seeing your corrections. I was just happy it went together easily and included indi tracks. Speaking of which, I didn't use. Let me know if you need some extras and I'll ship no charge.


Matt, thanks for the offer. Hopefully, I'll be ok.

So far the kit fit has been pretty good with no major problems. Most of the corrections I've already done. The bogie's and idle arms were the worst offenders.


Quoted Text

Really Nice Job Joel

Good eye for detail! This little beauty is on my to do list, So I'll be watching to see how you tackle this one.

BTW Forget the what the Judges can see and think just build for your own satisfaction. Once I did that my enjoyment in the hobby grew Exponentially!!


Eric, thanks. I mostly build for my own enjoyment. But once I decided to enter the Noreastcon next year, and enter one non-OOB cat. I thought it best to at least view what I do from what others can see. A good example of just building for myself, would have to continue to build and detail the front differential and axle housings, even though I would be the only one to know that they were indeed there.

But you're right that building for your own enjoyment is the way to go. I was starting to think of more ways to impress the judges. I did a 180 degree turn and just decided to do my best, push my envelope some, and have fun.
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, July 11, 2011 - 07:38 AM UTC
Hey guys, just a quick update. I didn't get the interior PE upgrade from Eduard, just their exterior one, so everything I do is with plasticstuct rod, and sheet. I needed to do some detailing to the rear of the 37 mm cannon. I think it came out ok.



pseudorealityx
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Posted: Monday, July 11, 2011 - 11:42 AM UTC
I believe I have the breech assembly from the AFVClub Stuart if you're interested...
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 07:47 AM UTC
Another small update, as I'm just about done with the interior, with just the control sticks and the fire extinguisher needed to be added. I've completed the weathering with black and burnt Umber washes, then dry brushed with flat Aluminum. Looking at the pictures, I think I still need a little more dry brushing and some paint chipping.

Here's some pictures to bring everyone up to date.

The overall interior without the top of the shell nor the turret assembly.


I really need to get a much better camera so that I can do macro photography and end up with pictures way better then these. My apologies for not being able to do a better job with them.



Dangeroo
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Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:40 AM UTC
Joel,

Nice job so far, especially on the interior. And if you leave the front hatches open there's lots to be seen of it too. Jesse's right about the suspension, AFV Club''s is much nicer and dimensionally more accurate. But I built my Academy M3A1 with the suspension as well.

I see you've already taken care of the rivets on the hull side. Don't forget to cover the sponson MG ports as well. That should take care of the M3/M3A1 issues.

Cheers!
Stefan
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,

Nice job so far, especially on the interior. And if you leave the front hatches open there's lots to be seen of it too. Jesse's right about the suspension, AFV Club''s is much nicer and dimensionally more accurate. But I built my Academy M3A1 with the suspension as well.

I see you've already taken care of the rivets on the hull side. Don't forget to cover the sponson MG ports as well. That should take care of the M3/M3A1 issues.

Cheers!
Stefan


Stefan, thanks for the kind words.

I agree, as I have a few AFV Stuart kits. I went with trying to do the corrections rather then substitutions for two reasons. 1- I wanted to see if I could actually do some of it, and secondly because this will be one of the models I will be entering in the 2012 Noreastcon, and felt that I would get more points for doing detailing rather then the substituting of the suspension.
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 09:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,
.....I see you've already taken care of the rivets on the hull side. Don't forget to cover the sponson MG ports as well. That should take care of the M3/M3A1 issues.

Cheers!
Stefan


Stefan, I've been working on them as well. Here's one that I finished. I sanded all the rivets off, then replaced the bottom bracket with a home made one complete with rivets.



The strange thing is that I found pictures with one side with a square plate, the other side with a round plate, while the kit comes with two square plates, and a few pictures of one side solid with no plate and the other side with a square plate. Go figure
Heatseeker64
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Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:29 PM UTC
Although I consider the Academy M3 Stuarts to be disappointingly flawed, I also reckon they are "fun" kits that are easy to build and look the part when they're finished ... I have six on the shelf.

I suppose half the enjoyment is using them as a basic building block for projects.

I understand the ethos of your build, but I just couldn't live with the suspension, which sits too high (my guess is the research tank had been stripped of internals) while the wheels are too narrow.

That said, I just did an Aussie hex turret Stuart in New Guinea, and after I muddied up the tank and surrounded it with jungle, you probably wouldn't notice it:



You might get some tips on some of the externals - although it's a rivetted M3- https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/156829&ord=&page=1
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, July 15, 2011 - 02:39 AM UTC
Mick, thanks for the info. Your Aussie Diorama came out great. I went to the site and I was amazed at the difference in height between the two bogie's. The trouble is I've spent so much time and effort trying to correct what I could, that I just can't trash them and go with the AFV replacements. I know that I'm just being stubborn, but I've started with a certain concept, and I'm determined to finish with it as well.

I can guarantee you that my next stuart,(one of my favorite variants) and all stuart projects will be based on the AFV kits. After doing one interior, I'm not concerned with doing another.
Heatseeker64
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Posted: Friday, July 15, 2011 - 02:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Mick, thanks for the info. Your Aussie Diorama came out great. I went to the site and I was amazed at the difference in height between the two bogie's. The trouble is I've spent so much time and effort trying to correct what I could, that I just can't trash them and go with the AFV replacements. I know that I'm just being stubborn, but I've started with a certain concept, and I'm determined to finish with it as well.

I can guarantee you that my next stuart,(one of my favorite variants) and all stuart projects will be based on the AFV kits. After doing one interior, I'm not concerned with doing another.


As I said, I understand the sentiment of your build and love how it's coming together.

Running gear aside, what is really needed are a new range of M3 Stuarts ... I remember when the Academy Stuarts came out all of the "experts" crowed about how great they were - in reality, while the turrets are more in proportion and the hull hatches are separate, a Tamiya hull will drop straight on to an Academy tub and the suspensions are pretty much identical (ie wrong).

When it come to building an M5, the AFV option is the only way to go.

In the meantime, Academy M3 with AFV Club suspension build up in to very decent representations and are fun and easy builds.
Dangeroo
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Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 01:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The strange thing is that I found pictures with one side with a square plate, the other side with a round plate, while the kit comes with two square plates, and a few pictures of one side solid with no plate and the other side with a square plate. Go figure


Well, Academy's kit is a mishmash of M3 and M3A1. Most M3 had the sponson MG removed in the field and replaced by a patch, square or round, you name it. The M3A1 was nevere produced with sponson MG so the openings were already filled in the factory. Round, the way you have it. Nice job by the way!

Cheers!
Stefan
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 01:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Mick, thanks for the info. Your Aussie Diorama came out great. I went to the site and I was amazed at the difference in height between the two bogie's. The trouble is I've spent so much time and effort trying to correct what I could, that I just can't trash them and go with the AFV replacements. I know that I'm just being stubborn, but I've started with a certain concept, and I'm determined to finish with it as well.

I can guarantee you that my next stuart,(one of my favorite variants) and all stuart projects will be based on the AFV kits. After doing one interior, I'm not concerned with doing another.


As I said, I understand the sentiment of your build and love how it's coming together.

Running gear aside, what is really needed are a new range of M3 Stuarts ... I remember when the Academy Stuarts came out all of the "experts" crowed about how great they were - in reality, while the turrets are more in proportion and the hull hatches are separate, a Tamiya hull will drop straight on to an Academy tub and the suspensions are pretty much identical (ie wrong).

When it come to building an M5, the AFV option is the only way to go.

In the meantime, Academy M3 with AFV Club suspension build up in to very decent representations and are fun and easy builds.


Mick,

I've already purchased a few AFV M5A1 kits, and look forward to adding to my Stuart collection. Hopefully in a few years time, I'll have 5 built for the collection category at that year's IPMS Regional.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, July 22, 2011 - 10:03 AM UTC
Another small update. This is the 1st time that I've purchased an ad on PE pack, and the only PE I have any experience with is what came with the Dragon M4A1 DV Sherman. So it was with a great deal of interpretation that I opened up the Eduard PE Exterior set #35543, and started my great PE adventure.

I couldn't believe how many parts there are or where they actually went. I've seen finished models of the M3A1 with both the external fuel tanks on and off. And frankly I've been leaning towards leaving them off. Especially since I still have ground down all the molded on straps, clamps, etc. But eventually I guess I'll bite the bullet and go that route.

I really struggled with the bending of the smaller PE parts just using a steel straight edge as the parts shifted quite easily. Looks like I'll have to invest in one of those little PE clamps. The smaller the part, the harder the time I had in getting the part glued into the correct position, and I ended up getting some excess CCA glue where it didn't belong. Being honest, I wasn't very comfortable working with the PE parts, and I'm glad that 95% of that work is behind me. Failing eyesite, even with an Optivisor on, was a real struggle to see what I needed to see.











Neonik
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Posted: Friday, July 22, 2011 - 08:27 PM UTC
Hello Joel! This is very interesting building! The details are very nicely done. I've built this kit some years ago. Maybe it will be interesting for you, here is tha link to my blog. Sorry but its in russian.
http://panzer35.ru/forum/50-46-1
tankglasgow
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 01:17 PM UTC
This is looking pretty good, you've done well with the PE bits, know what you mean about the wee hold & fold tool I've been battling away with just the end of a steel ruler and a scalpel and have found that holding down the smaller edge of a part and using the leverage of the larger side to fold to seems to work for me. Also interiors are great and should be included on all kits ! I did the AFV Club T34/85 a while ago and it was great fun, you learn so much more about your project.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, July 29, 2011 - 04:04 AM UTC
I still have a few small parts to add to the turret, but for all practical purposes, I'm finally at the painting stage. So I started off with a solid coat of Tamiya Lacquer Grey primer cut with Lacquer thinner. Used my home made spray booth which really helps, but the clean up still gave me a real headache.

I decided that I would model #5 "The Pay Off" of the 3rd Marine Tank Battalion, Bouganville, November 1943. Following Steve Zalogo's article on different Olive Drabs, I added a few drops of dark Yellow to Model Master Acrylic Olive Drab, thinned with Tamiya X-20A, and shot several lite coats as I like my paint on the thin side. Next was a few coats of a home made sand color that the lower hull, bogie's, and Idle Arm assembles received. I'll highlight this with a lighter shade of sand before sealing, and moving on to weathering.

I'm still really undecided about using the individual track links or the Vinyl tracks. the Vinyl tracks have received high marks in all the reviews I've read, so I'm leaning that way. I really don't want to deal with literally hundreds of small parts that all need to be cut off their respective sprue trees, and then sanded prior to gluing the whole deal together.

I took some pictures with my point and shoot Kodak C713 digital camera, and once again I was disappointed with the color rendition . The OD and sand look washed out even after color correction. I'm viewing these photos on my middle of the road Toshiba Satellite, so I'm not so sure that the blame is the cameras.









pseudorealityx
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Posted: Friday, July 29, 2011 - 02:39 PM UTC
Looking good Joel. I've never had consistent luck with my camera either, so I can't comment towards that. Nice to see solid progress too. It can be hard to keep the momentum up when you really want it to be 'right'.

I still vote for you to try the indi links, but understand if you end up using the vinyl ones.
hofpig
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Posted: Friday, July 29, 2011 - 08:08 PM UTC
Nice work man, it looks really good. Hope it continues well.

Paul
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2011 - 01:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good Joel. I've never had consistent luck with my camera either, so I can't comment towards that. Nice to see solid progress too. It can be hard to keep the momentum up when you really want it to be 'right'.

I still vote for you to try the indi links, but understand if you end up using the vinyl ones.


I've still got time to decid which way I want to go as far as the tracks are concerned.

Going to spend a good part of the day painting the road wheels, then a little dry brushing to pop out the details, then over spray the lower hull and bogie's with a lighter shade of sand as the color I used is just too dark and close to the OD I made.
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 10:18 AM UTC
Finally time for another update.

Decaling took all of a hour. then it was time to tackle the tracks.

I Spent the last 2 weeks trying get the tracks done. I started off with the Vinyl tracks in the kit and totally messed them up. I washed them in ISO alcohol, them primed them with Tamiya grey lacquer primer, which is my go 1st step in painting anything. Then I painted them with Tamiya and Model master acrylic paints. Next day the paint literally flaked off into my hands. Shock would be a mild world to discribe my state of mind. So I did a few searchers here, and of course found out that the Lacquer primer was the issue.

I cleaned off the paint the best I could, and repainted them with acrylics. When dry, I attempted to 1st glue the track ends together, 1st with Xtra Thin, then, CCA, niether worked. So it was go with the heated the screwdriver tip method. It worked some, but not quite. Decided to stable the ends, and I managed to mess that up as well.

Needless to say, I wasn't a "happy camper". I had bought the AFV club T16 tracks, and wanted to try them. The Indi links that came in the kit looks identical, so I figured I could use them for the future build I bought the T16 tracks for.

1st track was slow going, and I mean SLOW. Took me almost 5 hours to get it done. the 2nd track went a lot faster, as I got that done in a flying 2 plus hours. I had issues with the links coming apart even though the directions say not to glue them. So out came the jar of Xtra Thin. Problem solved.

The 1st track was installed the next day from completion, while the 2nd track was installed with a hour or so of finishing it. I had issues with the tracks conforming to the drive gear and Idle wheel. You'll see that in one picture. Just not sure how to fix it at this point.

Anyway, I dry fitted the upper hull and turret assembly, and took a few pictures

After I glue on the hatches, and finish up the tools, its time to move on to weathering.






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