Strangely, that hatch is missing. Legend has photos of it forward and back, but apparently went with "forward" without actually including it. Obviously a small piece of .020 will fix it, but if you want it forward, you've got to fill a small round hole in the roof.

I'll post interior photos later-on my way to the shop. (I re-organized mine slightly, according to pics.)

PM received as well. I'll send an answer. Gotta run though.

Thanks very much.

Great progress! Mine will be here next week

Hee are a few interior shots. The Legend photos are much better than mine.







One thing of note is the way the suspension is mounted. The axles are installed first. Each side is supported by a section of stack leaf springs. The center of the axle is also supported by a rectangular post that is inserted into the chassis. Then the leaf springs halves are added to each side of the center section. This is a very novel approach I've never seen, and is relatively bomb proof. The center support all but disappears from view, and if its presence offends your sensibilities you can just remove it.









One minor assembly note: The fire extinguishers underneath each side, while accurate, will not fit properly due to the air conditioning housing on each side. They will be too low if you mount them as per the instructions. Cut off the tops just above the top retaining band. Then cement them to the bottom of the AC unit, not to the transmission housing. This will give a much more prototypical appearance, and you'll never see the missing top of the fire extinguisher.

This is looking very good. Do they include a DUKE or any type of crypto/commo? What's the deal with the holes in the floor? Oh, one more question, is there non skid molded onto this or are you going to add it? I know they can't have it on the PE obviously, but those corner steps are what I remember being the most aggressive with non skid.

Same question as Steve, what are these holes in the floor ?

I think the Duke is the unit on the top rear of the roof. It does have a pretty hefty cable feeding into it. I'll have to check my photos to be sure.

The holes - don't know. They may help in removing the parts without warping them. At any rate, I was going to simply hide mine first with the same rubber matting I put in my Buffalo, but finally decided to fill them.

Now - for anyone who may have been curious, the Legend Driver figure fit very well with no mods whatsoever. In fact, its foot even rests on the accelerator pedal at the correct angle.

I know its a Maxx Pro Plus, but hope these help. Iraq 2009 time period. CST vehicle.

That's going to be my next build. According to our resident expert, Sean Hopkins, the only difference in the vehicle itself is the extra set of wheels.
Supplemental armor should come out soon.
I also notice the extra cooling vent in the front of the hood. This seems to have come about on later models, not just the Plus version. In my photos it has a bit of a different shape, is green, and is a definite add on.
As for the anti fouling poles, I'm doing a similar setup. Your photo shows yet a third mounting system I've seen, but I want to stay true to the one I used.
And I should clarify - I rode in one once. Got dropped off in the desert with one other SF dude and an Iraqi Recce Platoon member, and didn't even get to ride back in it the next day. I was still as excited as a little kid though.

Hey Robert or others in the know...

Why are there (2) different styles of radiators just behind the passeger doors?

Robert you have installed the version with cooling fans, but in your CD there are shots of this area with straight aluminum radiators in place of the fans.

Or is it possible the fans are not installed on certain trucks and the radiators (or trans coolers?) are still there just not visible because the fans block them from view?

Ryan

www.legendusa.net

Ryan,
There are two distinct styles, (both on the CD) and I'm not sure which is later. Either way, you have to have the same on both sides. You do have to do a slight bit of trimming to get them in.

I just took a look at my CD, and something occurred to me. The ones in Iraq have the fans, while the ones in Germany and Washigton state do not. Extra cooling? If you look in the New Maxx Pro file, MRX 122, you'll see empty bolt holes along the top and bottom of the radiator. Perhaps the fans can be removed after all.

Well if we're nit picking there dont forget about the door handle guards, the location of the exhaust and most importantly the grill. On the Base, the one youre building, the grill is vertical. However, on later models it is horizontal because it hides a bullet deflector that angles incoming projectiles downwards.

Also, the cooling fans can in fact be removed. It was an addition after hearing concerns as the vehicle progressed through combat operations

Oh I think we all love to nit pick here. I did notice the grill but there's nothing I can do about that. Someone better than me can try that fix. I did not notice the door handles. Thanks for pointing them out.

Hi Robert,

Nice work so far, by the way check your PM. I'll be checking in on this thread far too regularly... Should be getting mine...as soon as Lucky Model post it!!!!

Hoorah

Brian

Due to Navistar data sheets, maxx Pro Plus are different :
for Maxx Pro : 4 pieces 395/85R20
for Maxx Pro Pluss: single 395/80R20 front and dual 12.00R20G rear

The MEAP kit will be very interesting !!!!

Those are essentially the changes I spoke of.

On another note I am so tempted to buy another one of these kits. Lets pray I don't get bored and give into temptation

Is there a non skid pattern molded into the vehicle? The real trucks have an extremely prominent non skid applied to them. Also, could someone please post pictures of the gunners turret platform and top of the roof if they don't mind?

No non skid on the kit. But if anyone wants to do it, it is not on every panel. It is also not uniformly applied, so my old wet paint and sand trick will be my method of choice.
I'll post some photos later. I built the sliding door to replace the missing one - will post that as well.

Thanks, it's no problem, I'll just use the Rustoleum textured paint like I did for my Iraqi M1117 APC.

Plus one on that Steve...the Rustoluem is the way to go.

Not looking forward to it though, I still have nightmares from the M1a2 I did with that method!

The masking sessions ughhh!

Ryan

www.legendusa.net

Here are some photos of the roof. I don't have the gunner's platform installed yet. I haven't had time for about a week to work on this.
Everything is glued together except the roof panel, which snaps into place perfectly. Note the joint at the rear with the rear plate-you have to work it a bit but with a little effort it can made to be seamless like this one. Since I did not glue the roof on I can remove it for painting. You can also see the sliding hatch I built. It actually does slide forward and back.

Very well done. I remember that hatch locking mechanism getting bent and ruined on almost all of our trucks. To follow up with with Rob said, the non skid on these was not as cleanly done as on an Abrams, so you have some wiggle room.

Ours were tied up with bailing wire because the gunners were always very anxious about having those doors come sliding closed and cutting the gunner in half or breaking their pelvis. Good place to store stuff as I recall. Regarding the vents on the sides of the engine cover, I BELIEVE those are air filter intakes. I remember having to lift the hood and remove an armored plate to get at the air filter to clean it out. I seem to remember it being in that area.