Hi Guys,
this is my first attempt to posting in Armorama, so be patient for errors and mistakes...

Main subject of the topic is an old kit from italeri, I just haven't posted the box pict, because it was full of mices...

I like much more the finish and weathering process, compared to the building. This way the topic starts from the painting itself. And more, there's no super-detailing worth to be mentioned.

The Dodge ambulance is still a pretty looking model, good to be placed on a little diorama. But let's start :

Dealing with interiors, the O.D. paint was a mix of black and ochre. So I've formulated my own basic colors, starting from acrylic enamels. Black is slightly gloss, while ochre is more opaque. The more you add the latter to the mix, the more a light and faded effect.

Hello, welcome!
I like the paint, finish and weathering process too, when the model become more realistic.
I'll follow along, have a nice paint!

Hi Fernando, thank you !

Before chassis closing, some shape is given to details, with a True Earth transparent filter, STEEL PLATE DARK.



The surface around details is moisted with a really thin layer of water, then a selective filter is drawed with a round brush







On the thin water layer, the filter will leave a smooth border, just like an oil filter, but waterbased.

Drying time for these filters is 2-3 minutes.

Into the same manner, rivets are highlighted with a shadow all around

moist w/water



touch the rivet with a little of filter



what it looks like when dry

Then the whole is closed, leaving only the left door unglued, to be later opened.
The paint base is then airbrushed, a dark black/brown. A large wash of the Structured Filter DEEP RUST is spread over, on a layer of water to better flow. On this wet surface, the filter also achieves an irregularly dotted pattern.

Now it comes the process of a heavy chipping of paint

first, base and filter are protected with Color Effects-CRYSTAL LOCK. I leave it dry overnight



Then a pair coats of Color Effects-RUN OFF EFFECT are spread on and left to dry. This is a waterbased medium who avails paint to be chipped. Somewhat similar to hairspray technique, but a specifically formulated product.

The paint itself is again a mix of my "custom made" olive drab bases, with a bit of blue.
Water and some RUN OFF EFFECT are used to dilute the mix



the whole airbrushed in thin layers

Great work so far Giuseppe !
Step-by-step painting process is always helpfull !!

Great, Giuseppe!
Very good job. I can not wait to see it finished.
Greetings
Gianfranco

This is very useful information. Thank you for posting.

Thank you much for your support, Guys !

To irregularly alter and highlight the olive drab base, some dots of ACID fILTER ( no fear, just acid the color..) have been irregularly spread on the model.

Now, finally, it's time for the joyful part: A technique I've called "SCRAPING".

With different water-wet, hard-bristle brushes, the paint layer and it's filter are irregularly and progressively chipped away.

When satisfied, gently rinse it all, under a smooth water-flow. The paint medium will melt away, passing through the paint layers, who will definitively adhere.




So, summing up the process :
-first paint layer
-eventually apply it's filters
-fix all with CRYSTAL LOCK
- a pair layers of RUN OFF
- mix an acryl paint with water, then add RUN OFF
- layer of this latest mix
- chip away with water wet brush or toothpick
- rinse

Hi Giuseppe!
It is a great work... amazing... congrats!
Your advices are very helpful, 'cause I've got a similar project.

Hi Tommedic, thank you so much.

Here a larger pic
although some wet reflex, you can see this layering effect :
- the basic dark brown color
- irregular rust-color dots caused by DEEP RUST filter
- the green base
- residual dots of ACID FILTER, lighter jellowish green

Because the kit was very old, decals broke off at first touch. To fit them perfectly, and keep them in shape, I place them over a wet layer of water mixed with CRYSTAL LOCK again. Then I gently roll off water with a soft brush. This way I also spare a layer of transparent gloss over the whole model.

This technique is extensively explained into a free on-line tutorial on my website.




Some crack was unavoidable... weathering will help

I'm glad you're showing this work in more detail. I'm really interested in these products once I get a little money saved. The use of the product also with decals sealed the deal for me. The faded green and rusty chips look fantastic. (sorry they only have the beer icon or I would picture a wine)

It is a good tutorial of the artistic painting technique. The paint is way too weathered and worn out for a vehicle that has only been in combat for 6 months or less, but it is an interesting technique.

Also, on a side note, all WWII WC54s were painted OD green on the inside as well, white was incorrectly applied by post WWII vehicle restorers.



More info here, including a Battle of the Bulge WC54 gallery.

@Greg : beer is good too ! Thank you

@Gino : you're right about the excessive chipping, it will be hardly reduced with following filters.
About white inside, I was following some picts of restored veichles. Didn't mean they were wrong. Thank you.

Now to blend those perfect crosses with the worn out vehicle, some Deep Rust Filter again is spread over.
Than streaked, while fresh, with a single vertical passage of an old stiff brush

Since the model will be placed into a cold environment, a cold filter both adds a bit of atmosphere and some interesting variation in color.
PAINT FADING 3 is the transparent filter applied.

Moist first the part to be treated with the thinnest layer of water, to have better blended dots and streaks.

Giuseppe Vitali,

What a beautiful piece of work. I really like you SBS on this project. Well done!

Gary

Thank you much gary, I like your blog too...!

Now it's time to better define shape, and to add a more "dramatic" wintery atmosphere to the model

Since the basic color is somewhat dark, I'll use a transparent filter named DARK AGEING.
This filter is first lightly airbrushed on recesses, on lower part of shapes, and around larger panels (0,5 to 1 bar)

Given a wet environment, rust will emerge and run around a bit (..I know, I like to overdo wear effects...)
this is a two steps treatament

First, the irregular and opaque structured filter SPREAD RUST, is spread in dots with an open bristles brush, expecially on walk-on areas, and on earlier steps "scraped" areas.