Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2012 - 08:27 AM UTC
OK I am done with the build except for the tracks. I will only be putting about half on per side as you wont be able to see whats under the water. This will speed that portion up also. I guess overall I would say that the Tristar build was "OK". I think the most difficult part of the build was the pioneer tool assy and installation on the fenders. Perhaps either all PE or better moulding. Fit issues are abundant concerning this area also. I am just glad its over.
Here is the box built and painted
And here is the kit with a coat of white primer applied, next its time to paint.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: January 08, 2005
KitMaker: 456 posts
Armorama: 216 posts
Posted: Friday, August 10, 2012 - 12:07 PM UTC
Hi Tim, nice job so far, one thing to check, in some of the pics there is a definite mold line on the gun barrel you may want to address before your final color coat.
Keep up the good work.

Regards, Ed
To err is human, to forgive divine,......neither of which is Marines Corps policy.
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 05:03 AM UTC
Despite the issues, you have turned this one into a gem! If you have had more fun than headaches, I would say it was worth it(especially with the finished result).
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Removed by original poster on 02/03/13 - 02:55:18 (GMT).
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 02, 2013 - 02:58 PM UTC

#155
California, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 774 posts
Armorama: 605 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 02, 2013 - 03:14 PM UTC
Looks nice, should look even better in the water!
Cheers,
Rick
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 02, 2013 - 03:31 PM UTC
Great job on this Tim!! Caught up from the back end to the paint!! Looking forward to seeing this one submerged a bit!!
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 11:13 AM UTC
OK, so I was convinced to enlarge my box so I went from this;
To this;
And using this wonderful product that I overpaid for online and then came to find out my LHS had for $5 cheaper
Here are the results right after the first pour. I will have to let it cure for 24hrs which will give me time to buy some more, I'm gonna need it.
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 04:05 PM UTC
Ah... I was wondering what happened to this build. Good progress on it.
I think you did the right thing by enlarging the box a bit, but depending on what else you have planned to go around the tank, you may have gone a little too big. It also brings to mind an old adage I've heard more than a few times (and personally believe it) that a subject of a vignette or diorama is always more appealing to the eye if it is not sitting squared and centered on it's base.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 10:47 PM UTC
Thanks guys. I did find out the you must really seal the wood before you use magic water. I discovered this about an hour after I poured and noticed a large puddle of the resin under my box. I applied a field dressing of duct tape which slowed the lks until the resin cured to the point it was no longer fluid. It also seeped at one spot on a sidewall. The tank is not ”directly” centered but it is where I think it should be. My ”hope” is to color and agitate the water to fill in the rest of the ”space”.
United States
Joined: September 27, 2009
KitMaker: 29 posts
Armorama: 28 posts
Posted: Friday, February 15, 2013 - 11:36 AM UTC
Nice work Tim, larger box works much better. keep up the great work. Ray
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 01:10 PM UTC
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 01:15 PM UTC
It looks great! I agree about needing to add some surface texture. Is there a certain product you intend to use for this or are you going to try and shape the resin you already have?
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 02:37 PM UTC
I am going to try to shape it myself. Its just finding the perfect time to shape it after its been poured. I just havent figured that out yet. Its gonna be trial and error, probably with the emphasis on error.
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 02:41 PM UTC
You are a braver man than I.
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 12:10 AM UTC
OK after thinking about this while I tried to sleep I think Im going to pour 1 more colored layer then use "Modge Podge" to make ripples/waves.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 10:06 AM UTC
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 04:32 PM UTC
That's a lot of resin! I hope it doesn't crack as it fully cures. How deep can you see down through it?
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 06:50 PM UTC
I feel your pain TImothy.
I built the Ausf.B a year or so ago and had the same fit issues as you did. It is not the storage etc but just the way the kits are produced. I think some manufacturers eject the sprues etc from the moulds too early and you get problems like ejector pin marks and warping.
Anybody want an Ausf.C?

You may be right, I may be crazy.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 12:23 AM UTC
Please Bob dont scare me with thoughts of cracking
With the paint added the depth which u can see is very minimal. Overall I am looking fwd to adding the modge podge.
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 294 posts
Armorama: 196 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 03:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Please Bob dont scare me with thoughts of cracking
With the paint added the depth which u can see is very minimal. Overall I am looking fwd to adding the modge podge.
I worked with that 'water' before for project my daughter had for school. We ended up pouring it about 10 inches (25cm) deep and it’s fine. There's not one crack or split anywhere. The trick was to pour in layers just as you did.
We discovered this by accident in a way. We didn't buy enough at first. We made 2 pours, or maybe 3. One of her friends did the same but with one big pour. The water pulled away from the side at the top just a bit and one small thin seam opened in the middle.
My guess is the product shrank just ever so much while setting. With a smaller pour it's not enough to notice but with a larger pour it was.
On the bench:
The Night Shift Campaign: GWH P-61 "The Last Shoot Down". 1/48
Spanish Civil War Campaign: Dragon Pz I Ausf B 1/35
Revell B-17 1/48 with lots of add ons.
Complete rehab and repaint of Dragon Pz III J. 1/35
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 07:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Please Bob dont scare me with thoughts of cracking
With the paint added the depth which u can see is very minimal. Overall I am looking fwd to adding the modge podge.
Robert may be right about the layered pours. I used to work with casting resin quite a bit before it got too expensive to play with. What I found was the thicker the pour, the more likely a problem would occur, though I did have occasional problems with layered pours too. I just attributed it to one of the lower layers curing differently. Fortunately, even if you do have some layer seperation, with the color you added, it'll probably never show.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 02:24 PM UTC
What I have is a little less than an inch overall. Done in 3 pours. Just my opinion but I think I am gonna come out OK on this one. Im not a resin expert and I value everyones opinions just mine happens to be for not cracking. I will surely let you know if it does crack.
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 06:05 PM UTC
...positive thoughts...positive thoughts...positive thoughts.....
I don't think you'll have a problem, either.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2013 - 02:46 PM UTC