hi there,
here is some pics of my australian m113 fsv i just finished it hope you like would love to hear some tips and that to hone my skill a bit more.
cheers
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Tamyia m113 FSV
corie1990
Victoria, Australia
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 05:36 PM UTC
Steel_Spektor
Queensland, Australia
Joined: December 19, 2012
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Joined: December 19, 2012
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 07:56 PM UTC
Looks good to me. I am an absolute novice but perhaps try drybrushing to bring out some of the details. Or perhaps use a wash.
corie1990
Victoria, Australia
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 08:02 PM UTC
hey cheers mate i have dry brushed it and atm im looking into these MIG product washes they look good as im doin a german panther atm so might play around with that
corie1990
Victoria, Australia
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Joined: February 13, 2013
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 08:30 PM UTC
im also a novice to mate ha
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 01:40 AM UTC
With weathering less is often more, and is applied in very diluted applications of filters and washes, sealing each layer as you proceed.
Looking down at the top the weathering looks the most realistic, especially the engine intakes, while the front and side views just seem too heavy handed. You can see the brush strokes and unevenness of the application. The stored cable is a perfect example. You brushed around it, and the strokes are visible, yet you missed areas right next to it that should have received the same weathering application.
After painting and decaling, seal the model, then do your 1st filter. Seal when dry, then start your pin washes. A little goes a long way for the effects you're trying to replicate. Seal in flat. For heavy mud and earth, I like to do that last with an airbrush, building in layers and various colors dark to light.
Joel
Looking down at the top the weathering looks the most realistic, especially the engine intakes, while the front and side views just seem too heavy handed. You can see the brush strokes and unevenness of the application. The stored cable is a perfect example. You brushed around it, and the strokes are visible, yet you missed areas right next to it that should have received the same weathering application.
After painting and decaling, seal the model, then do your 1st filter. Seal when dry, then start your pin washes. A little goes a long way for the effects you're trying to replicate. Seal in flat. For heavy mud and earth, I like to do that last with an airbrush, building in layers and various colors dark to light.
Joel
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 01:46 AM UTC
I totally agree with Joel, about the weathering. Something else I noticed is that the straps holding the jerry cans onto the rear of the vehicle are black. They should be the same color as your base coat and weathered accordingly.
J8kob_F
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: October 24, 2012
KitMaker: 202 posts
Armorama: 104 posts
Joined: October 24, 2012
KitMaker: 202 posts
Armorama: 104 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 02:38 AM UTC
Hey! nice with another m113 I’m building one at the moment also https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/203717&page=1
It wasn't long ago that I tried weathering for the first time so I can't say that I’m an expert but I find that weathering with actual paint is quite hard as the application tends to be quite heavy and it’s hard to get an even distribution. To avoid that you can apply it with an airbrush as Joel said so that you got better control.
What I prefer is to weather with pigments as I fell that it is easier and much less finally than actual paint. To dust your vehicle you just put some of it on and rubs it with a q-tip or a piece of paper to make it stick, the more you rub the more subtle the effect becomes. Also if things go South you can just remove the pigment with a wet towel and start over. To make mud you mix the pigment with some plaster and carefully put it on.
For pigments I use both products from MIG and AK-interactive but dry pastels works fine also you just grinds them to dust using some sandpaper.
That’s my opinion, happy modelling
Jakob
It wasn't long ago that I tried weathering for the first time so I can't say that I’m an expert but I find that weathering with actual paint is quite hard as the application tends to be quite heavy and it’s hard to get an even distribution. To avoid that you can apply it with an airbrush as Joel said so that you got better control.
What I prefer is to weather with pigments as I fell that it is easier and much less finally than actual paint. To dust your vehicle you just put some of it on and rubs it with a q-tip or a piece of paper to make it stick, the more you rub the more subtle the effect becomes. Also if things go South you can just remove the pigment with a wet towel and start over. To make mud you mix the pigment with some plaster and carefully put it on.
For pigments I use both products from MIG and AK-interactive but dry pastels works fine also you just grinds them to dust using some sandpaper.
That’s my opinion, happy modelling
Jakob