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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1A1 Thunder Run - Sgt Booker
adampolo13
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: July 30, 2013
KitMaker: 43 posts
Armorama: 43 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 14, 2013 - 05:49 AM UTC
One of the best M1's I've seen!
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 14, 2013 - 12:59 PM UTC
Thanks everybody. Hopefully some folks will be encouraged to do an OIF subject.

I worked on the razor wire and pickets today. I used Evergreen angle stock for the pickets. They are not accurate, since pickets are actually more complicated in shape, but stacked like they are I think I can get away with the way I did it.

The razor wire is from Eduard. They wrapped it differently than Bradley and M113 crews. Those guys usually used sandbags at three different points to help hold it all together (like in the resin piece shown here), but for some reason the Abrams guys used wire to hold it together. I used the resin piece as a guide to wrap it as it was the correct circumference.

I added an empty Eduard .50 can to show that the TC was firing the .50 cal. And I started to prepare the Live Resin spent links and shells for the .50 cal









andromeda673
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 30, 2013
KitMaker: 584 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 14, 2013 - 02:02 PM UTC
superb work! really awesome to see this coming together
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 14, 2013 - 09:21 PM UTC
Will this build ever stop getting better?
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
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Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 - 05:28 AM UTC
In talking with the crew I decided to go with a duffel bag with MOPP pants falling out of it. This will be dangling off the right rear deck of the tank.

I forgot to paint the red A13 on the tent bag. Crews painted this on the tent bag depending on their bumper code. I painted it on and then put a dust coat. Maybe another coat later.



andromeda673
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Wisconsin, United States
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Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 - 12:37 PM UTC
the weathering is superb, the wear and tear is spot on, I'm sorry to ask such a dumb question, but what did you use to get the chunky packed between the link mud look?
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 - 03:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text

the weathering is superb, the wear and tear is spot on, I'm sorry to ask such a dumb question, but what did you use to get the chunky packed between the link mud look?

Do you mean the weathered tracks? I first painted the metal parts in a rust color. I painted the track pads a dark grey. I then liberally put on a coat of pigments with white spirit. Then while still wet I took a large, clean brush and removed most of it, which leaves the pigments in the crevices. I hope that answers your questions.

Bob
andromeda673
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 30, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 06:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

the weathering is superb, the wear and tear is spot on, I'm sorry to ask such a dumb question, but what did you use to get the chunky packed between the link mud look?

Do you mean the weathered tracks? I first painted the metal parts in a rust color. I painted the track pads a dark grey. I then liberally put on a coat of pigments with white spirit. Then while still wet I took a large, clean brush and removed most of it, which leaves the pigments in the crevices. I hope that answers your questions.

Bob


yeah thank you for the help, what brand of pigments are you using?
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 10:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

the weathering is superb, the wear and tear is spot on, I'm sorry to ask such a dumb question, but what did you use to get the chunky packed between the link mud look?

Do you mean the weathered tracks? I first painted the metal parts in a rust color. I painted the track pads a dark grey. I then liberally put on a coat of pigments with white spirit. Then while still wet I took a large, clean brush and removed most of it, which leaves the pigments in the crevices. I hope that answers your questions.

Bob


yeah thank you for the help, what brand of pigments are you using?

I have MIG pigments.
andromeda673
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 30, 2013
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Posted: Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 07:09 AM UTC
thank you for the help! I did some weathering today on a build for the trumpeter campaign, and I used some good old fashioned grout. Seemed to give me the same effect.
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 10:51 AM UTC
Antennas done. On the left antenna is gas detection tape and below that is a strobe light for air recognition and night march guidance. I just used a couple of pieces of square rod to make a 'T.' One for the 9 volt battery and the other for the strobe light that was at the top of it. It was in turn wrapped with tape to keep it on the antenna. I used AFV CLUB Stryker antenna balls for the tops.

I finished the scratched duffel bag w/ MOPP suit pants falling out. A strap is snagged around the fuel cap.









HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 - 01:36 PM UTC
Awesome job Bob. She looks amazing.

I need to get back to work on the BFIST and then start HQ 63.
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 21, 2013 - 06:00 AM UTC
Thanks Gino. It's nice that this is almost done. Today I will work on the spent links and shells. That will leave only the crew to complete.

Bob
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 21, 2013 - 02:37 PM UTC
Links and shells. Some touch up to be done.





Burik
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Friday, November 22, 2013 - 06:28 AM UTC
Not sure if I mentioned it but the links and spent shells are from Live Resin soon to be released.
Burik
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Posted: Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 03:42 AM UTC
Just need a crew now,











raffrecon
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New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 03:39 AM UTC
Awesome work Bob! Just a thought for you, I was in 1-1 CAV as a Scout and was around the M1's a lot. One thing that every vehicle had, and we all got them from the Tankers, was a .50 cal link slid down the antenna fron the top. This was used to hold a chem light stick. I just thought it would be a nice touch to your already imoressive model, since you have those beautiful Live Resin links. Again, great work.

Dan R.
raffrecon
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Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 03:55 AM UTC
Bob, I just checked my pics from Iraq and all the TF 1-64 Tanks had the .50 cal links on the antennas.

Dan R.
Burik
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Joined: March 12, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 03:56 AM UTC
Hi Dan. Thank you very much. That is an interesting detail about the chem light. In talking to OIF1 vets they did not seem to do this as you describe at that time. Some crews used a grenade packing tube and put a chem light inside that, and in turn taped that to the wind sensor. Other crews used a 9 volt battery with a strobe light plugged into that, and that was taped to one or both antennas.

This model depicts the battery and strobe light on the left antenna.

Bob
Burik
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Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 04:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Bob, I just checked my pics from Iraq and all the TF 1-64 Tanks had the .50 cal links on the antennas.

Dan R.


Dan, can you show me - it's something I can not recall in photos and I am away at this time so I can't review my photos. If this is something that my tank would have I don't think the Live Resin links will work. They are so tiny and the real life open loops/ends are not open in the Live Resin examples - it is just not possible. I even tried to use my smallest drill bit to see if I could drill through the loops and I was unable. But some playing around with them might result in the proper look on an antenna.
raffrecon
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Joined: January 01, 2011
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Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 04:07 AM UTC
Looking at my pics, I see the 9 volt set up too. I have to find a scanner and I will send you some pics. It might just take me a couple days. I also remmeber a modelling article ( I think it was a HMMWV) where the author described putting links on the antennas and I will try to find that too.

I was also wondering if you couls describe how you scratch built the bicket and duffel bag. Those came out great!

Dan R.
Burik
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Posted: Monday, November 25, 2013 - 04:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text



I was also wondering if you couls describe how you scratch built the bicket and duffel bag. Those came out great!

Dan R.


Dan, the bucket was some tubing from Evergreen. I thinned the top edge with my Dremel Tool. I made the bands by taking the finest Evergreen rod and softening it with liquid cement to make the bands. They are not as thin as real life ones so I had to compromise and use one less than in real life. I used thin solder for the handle. And I plugged the bottom with a cut out circle of plastic.

I considered sculpting the bag and pants, but decided that since they would be hanging and very little real detail would be seen, I could get away with lead foil. I used Verlinden lead foil and added the pockets with epoxy putty. I have different PE buckles too so I used one for the end of a strap. For the pants I made sure to have the ties at the bottom too.
Burik
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Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 02:38 PM UTC
Back to it with the figures. I needed a yelling figure for the TC so I am going to live with the features that lean more towards a Caucasian. But I was unhappy with my effort on the loader looking up, as well as his features. Don Haney was kind enough to send me an African Hornet head and I took the leap of carving and sanding to get it to fit in a Verlinden CVC.

I used an empty Verlinden CVC and first removed the interior earphones/pads. That was not enough due to the shape of the helmet. I used a conical shaped grinder bit to take out more of the inside to try and accept the head. The head of course needed the ears removed but that would not be enough. The head was further carved away towards the back and top and with some back and forth I got it to fit pretty well.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/Burik/Abrams/002_zpsb7be4564.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/Burik/Abrams/003_zps717215ea.jpg








ProfessorP
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Minnesota, United States
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 03:15 PM UTC
Looks like it fits pretty good. Nice work! Now on to painting...

Here's the African skin tone color mix I used if you want to give it a try with acrylics:

Reaper Master Series "Dark Shadow"
Vallejo 984 Flat Brown
Vallejo 843 Cork Brown
Vallejo 955 Flat Flesh
Vallejo 846 Mahogany Brown
Dr. Ph. Martin's Concentrated Water Color #27B "Mahogany" (optional: used as filter)

And reference photos here:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/173169&ord=&page=1
Burik
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Posted: Sunday, January 05, 2014 - 05:32 AM UTC
Figures just about done. I may try to tweak the TC left hand to smooth it out. Both crewmen were dark skinned, so I went with the same basic skin tones. I needed a yelling TC so it is not as convincing as the loader due to the Caucasian features, but he is looking down, so I hope it is not as noticeable. And with the mic and M-4 in the way, I was willing to live with it. The loader looking up would be more noticeable.

Mics from Royal Model. I made up a comm cord and used Tamiya tape wrapped around the wire for the connection, and put some blobs of white glue on it to make it more rounded. Echelon 3rd ID patches.













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