Hi Everyone,
Of late I have had a quiet spell with modelling, health issues, domestic issues and a general malaise with regard to actual modelling. I feel that it is because I have a lot of stuff that needs finishing and the thought of getting it all done was a bit daunting. So I decided to get 'back into harness' by doing an OOB build and get it finished in a two week time frame. I chose to do the Pz III because I really like this little tank and I haven't one in my collection at the moment. The model is the Revell one and I intend to build it as much OOB as possible. I have chosen to depict it as an early model with the side escape hatches, these were apparently deleted in the later models and base it in Libya towards the end of the Desert Campaign.
Once I got the bits out of the box I saw that I really needed to modify the tracks as the guide horns were hollow in this model, so I set to work with my pin drill and a few new No.11 Swan Morton blades....I know it was supposed to be OOB, but it looks much better with the guide horns hollow. I will be adding the RB barrel as well and some wire grab handles, but that will be the extent of my modifications.
Here is the work so far...
The components for one track run completed...
The guide horns hollowed out...
The running gear made up for one side, it is removable for painting...
That's it for now, I will post further progress as it happens.
All the best,
Paul
Hosted by Darren Baker
Pz.Kpfw. IIIL...WIP
spacewolfdad
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 04:44 AM UTC
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 05:00 AM UTC
Nice one Paul; so tell me, did you drill out every single guide horn, so even the ones that are hidden inside the wheels?
Also, this pre-assembling of the wheels and tracks is a neat idea, did you do it just by slipping the wheels into place on the hull then attaching the tracks? Just wondering how you managed to get it so perfectly aligned, as often wheels wobble around quite a bit until they're glued into place - but then maybe that's not the case on this kit.
Also, this pre-assembling of the wheels and tracks is a neat idea, did you do it just by slipping the wheels into place on the hull then attaching the tracks? Just wondering how you managed to get it so perfectly aligned, as often wheels wobble around quite a bit until they're glued into place - but then maybe that's not the case on this kit.
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 06:39 AM UTC
Hi Matthew,
You got me, no I didn't do the ones that are on the sprocket and idler, not much point as you can't see them when attatched.
I use small blobs of Blu-tac to make sure the wheels, return rollers, idler and sprocket don't move while I build up the track, it makes life a lot easier painting this lot if it isn't attached to the hull. Just doing the other side now, lots of delicate carving.
All the best,
Paul
You got me, no I didn't do the ones that are on the sprocket and idler, not much point as you can't see them when attatched.
I use small blobs of Blu-tac to make sure the wheels, return rollers, idler and sprocket don't move while I build up the track, it makes life a lot easier painting this lot if it isn't attached to the hull. Just doing the other side now, lots of delicate carving.
All the best,
Paul
PanzerAlexander
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 07:09 PM UTC
Hi Paul,
Nice you got back to modeling. I like the way you assemble the tracks.
I use the straightforward method but lately I've been thinking of trying your way it really simplifies the weathering of the lower hull.
P.A.
Nice you got back to modeling. I like the way you assemble the tracks.
I use the straightforward method but lately I've been thinking of trying your way it really simplifies the weathering of the lower hull.
P.A.
Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 08:12 PM UTC
@spacewolfdad – Paul,
Good to see one of your projects here, thanks for sharing. Drilling out and then removing material from the hole with a blade to square each track horn must be time consuming but well worth every moment spent in the end. With the road, idler and drive wheels set in place on the revamped tracks the kit pieces take on a more realistic look. I do hope that one day the manufactures will include this needed detail in this scale just as they have been slowing doing in the larger scales with some of that slide-molding plastic magic. You have a good start on this one Paul.
~ Eddy
Good to see one of your projects here, thanks for sharing. Drilling out and then removing material from the hole with a blade to square each track horn must be time consuming but well worth every moment spent in the end. With the road, idler and drive wheels set in place on the revamped tracks the kit pieces take on a more realistic look. I do hope that one day the manufactures will include this needed detail in this scale just as they have been slowing doing in the larger scales with some of that slide-molding plastic magic. You have a good start on this one Paul.
~ Eddy
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 11:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Paul,
Nice you got back to modeling. I like the way you assemble the tracks.
I use the straightforward method but lately I've been thinking of trying your way it really simplifies the weathering of the lower hull.
P.A.
Hi Alexander,
It also makes painting the road wheels and tracks a lot easier too. I will be updating the blog when I have done a bit more to the model, thank you for your kind comment.
All the best,
Paul
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 11:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
@spacewolfdad – Paul,
Good to see one of your projects here, thanks for sharing. Drilling out and then removing material from the hole with a blade to square each track horn must be time consuming but well worth every moment spent in the end. With the road, idler and drive wheels set in place on the revamped tracks the kit pieces take on a more realistic look. I do hope that one day the manufactures will include this needed detail in this scale just as they have been slowing doing in the larger scales with some of that slide-molding plastic magic. You have a good start on this one Paul.
~ Eddy
Hi Eddy,
Good to hear from you, I will email you later in the week. The time taken to do the guide horns was only about 4 hours in total, but I think it worth the effort. If you remember I did the same on my Pz IVD some time back...
Apparently Armory are going to produce a full range of Panzer III/IV tracks, 38cm, 40cm, hollow and solid guide horns, winterketten, ostketten and ostketten with central cleat. Here are the details...
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/thread/1371740214/Armory+projects+-+Pz.III-Pz.IV+tracks
Should save a lot of time and trouble in the future. Obviously there is the extra cost, but until manufacturers 'get with the program' this is all we have. I would also like to see cupolas with open vision slits, but I think I may have to do that myself and have some cast up. Thanks for the comment.
All the best,
Paul
Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 08:17 PM UTC
@spacewolfdad – Paul,
Yes, I do remember this build, first time seeing anyone creating the open guide horns on a kit this small or for that matter in any scale. This effort on your part goes a long ways in adding a much needed feature in our scale that’s actually on the real deal.
Thanks for the good news and link on the tracks. These look absolutely the dog! Hope to see someone using these tracks on a build log in the near future. I have quite a collection of the mentioned vehicles that could use these track sets, so I know I’m interested.
~ Eddy
Yes, I do remember this build, first time seeing anyone creating the open guide horns on a kit this small or for that matter in any scale. This effort on your part goes a long ways in adding a much needed feature in our scale that’s actually on the real deal.
Thanks for the good news and link on the tracks. These look absolutely the dog! Hope to see someone using these tracks on a build log in the near future. I have quite a collection of the mentioned vehicles that could use these track sets, so I know I’m interested.
~ Eddy
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 01:13 PM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I have just finished the hull on this build and would like to update you on what I have done. I started this section by detailing the back plate with the exhaust system, I used brass micro tube to produce a more realistic exhaust pipe and then treated the muffler to a coat of Mr. Surfacer to produce a more pitted surface. The heat shield was then added and the plate attached to the rear of the hull.
I then added the upper hull and used some spare photo-etch to put a grille under the rear overhang, I know this probably won't be noticed on the finished model, but I know it is there.
The next jobs were to add the side and front plates to the superstructure and the front hatches. I used one of Aber's excellent turned brass machine guns for the MG34.
The aerial trough was a solid moulding and I wondered how to make it into a proper trough, I thought it would be a good idea to run a razor saw along it to produce the missing hollow that would make it look right, after much holding of breath I managed to produce what I thought was an acceptable result.
I attached the air intakes and used the superb Voyager grilles for Pz IIIs, they are excellent quality and worth getting.
Next was the spaced armour on the front plate, a simple glueing job.
Then the various bits for finishing the hull were added.
That's all the progress up to now, I will tackle the turret next.
All the best,
Paul
I have just finished the hull on this build and would like to update you on what I have done. I started this section by detailing the back plate with the exhaust system, I used brass micro tube to produce a more realistic exhaust pipe and then treated the muffler to a coat of Mr. Surfacer to produce a more pitted surface. The heat shield was then added and the plate attached to the rear of the hull.
I then added the upper hull and used some spare photo-etch to put a grille under the rear overhang, I know this probably won't be noticed on the finished model, but I know it is there.
The next jobs were to add the side and front plates to the superstructure and the front hatches. I used one of Aber's excellent turned brass machine guns for the MG34.
The aerial trough was a solid moulding and I wondered how to make it into a proper trough, I thought it would be a good idea to run a razor saw along it to produce the missing hollow that would make it look right, after much holding of breath I managed to produce what I thought was an acceptable result.
I attached the air intakes and used the superb Voyager grilles for Pz IIIs, they are excellent quality and worth getting.
Next was the spaced armour on the front plate, a simple glueing job.
Then the various bits for finishing the hull were added.
That's all the progress up to now, I will tackle the turret next.
All the best,
Paul
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 08:08 PM UTC
Paul, nice detailing, especially around the exhaust - well, we all know it's there now as well! Interested to see the Aber MG replacement, as when I built the Dragon PzIIIM I managed to lose the MG completely (normally I just lose the decals). Who did you buy that from?
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 10:17 PM UTC
Hi Matthew,
Thanks for the comment, well those that have read the thread will know for sure. The barrels are from Historex Agents, a little pricey, but worth it for the excellence of them.
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=AB72L33
All the best,
Paul
Thanks for the comment, well those that have read the thread will know for sure. The barrels are from Historex Agents, a little pricey, but worth it for the excellence of them.
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=AB72L33
All the best,
Paul
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 07:17 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I have finished the turret, it was built OOB except for a RB barrel and two brass grab-handles. I also modified the spare track length by drilling and carving out the guide horns and I made a little bucket from a Brengun photo-etch set as part of the stowage. Here are the photos...
Here is the tank ready for the primer coat...
I will be painting it next week as soon as I have figured out what exactly the 'brown' was that the Afrika Korps used in Tunisia, anyone who can help with a mix for Tamyia, or a propriety Acrylic paint I can use, I would be most grateful. Until the next update.
All the best,
Paul
I have finished the turret, it was built OOB except for a RB barrel and two brass grab-handles. I also modified the spare track length by drilling and carving out the guide horns and I made a little bucket from a Brengun photo-etch set as part of the stowage. Here are the photos...
Here is the tank ready for the primer coat...
I will be painting it next week as soon as I have figured out what exactly the 'brown' was that the Afrika Korps used in Tunisia, anyone who can help with a mix for Tamyia, or a propriety Acrylic paint I can use, I would be most grateful. Until the next update.
All the best,
Paul
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 07:23 AM UTC
I'm glad life is cutting you a bit of a break Paul, I've been held back by similar issues myself. I always enjoy seeing your work and look forward to seeing more on this.
I'm still looking for a good hobby shop over here that carries all of the braille goodies you guys get to enjoy on the other side of the pond.
I'm still looking for a good hobby shop over here that carries all of the braille goodies you guys get to enjoy on the other side of the pond.
Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 09:28 AM UTC
@spacewolfdad – Paul,
See you’ve been making good progress on your panzer III and now you’re getting ready to have a go with a two color Africa Korps camouflage scheme or just a single color? Below you will find a few links that I hope will be of some help for you in figuring out the needed color(s) for your vehicle. I’m interested in seeing what you will come up with when you post further progress photographs and see some paint!
Will you be hanging that nifty looking pale on the vehicle or using it as a spite bucket for the commander? Just asking . . .
Here is an Armorama discussion on the Africa Korps colors
Two build logs from Bill Plunk’s website ‘BP Models’ on the Panzer IV Ausf F2 and Panzer III Ausf G in a two color Africa Korps color scheme.
And another build, this time as a feature by the same author, using a single color Africa Korps color scheme.
And this link will take you over to a site with ‘The Ultimate Model Paint Conversion Chart’ where you can view the chart online or download a PDF version. This should help short out the colors against the type of paint brand you would like to use.
I do hope this helps you out Paul,
~ Eddy
See you’ve been making good progress on your panzer III and now you’re getting ready to have a go with a two color Africa Korps camouflage scheme or just a single color? Below you will find a few links that I hope will be of some help for you in figuring out the needed color(s) for your vehicle. I’m interested in seeing what you will come up with when you post further progress photographs and see some paint!
Will you be hanging that nifty looking pale on the vehicle or using it as a spite bucket for the commander? Just asking . . .
Here is an Armorama discussion on the Africa Korps colors
Two build logs from Bill Plunk’s website ‘BP Models’ on the Panzer IV Ausf F2 and Panzer III Ausf G in a two color Africa Korps color scheme.
And another build, this time as a feature by the same author, using a single color Africa Korps color scheme.
And this link will take you over to a site with ‘The Ultimate Model Paint Conversion Chart’ where you can view the chart online or download a PDF version. This should help short out the colors against the type of paint brand you would like to use.
I do hope this helps you out Paul,
~ Eddy
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 10:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm glad life is cutting you a bit of a break Paul, I've been held back by similar issues myself. I always enjoy seeing your work and look forward to seeing more on this.
I'm still looking for a good hobby shop over here that carries all of the braille goodies you guys get to enjoy on the other side of the pond.
Hi Jeremy,
If you want something specific I could get it for you and you pay me via PayPal, the shipping cost to America wouldn't be much as most PE is quite light.
Just a thought, but it might help.
All the best,
Paul
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 10:34 AM UTC
@ Braille:
Hi Eddy,
Thanks for the links, I am working through them, most helpful. The bucket will probably be suspended from something, I have seen a lot of German tanks with buckets, they seemed to like having them handy for whatever reason. I used one on another project I have to get finished sometime soon...
This is another Brengun bucket from the PE set. So much to do and not enough time in a day.
All the best,
Paul
Hi Eddy,
Thanks for the links, I am working through them, most helpful. The bucket will probably be suspended from something, I have seen a lot of German tanks with buckets, they seemed to like having them handy for whatever reason. I used one on another project I have to get finished sometime soon...
This is another Brengun bucket from the PE set. So much to do and not enough time in a day.
All the best,
Paul
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 06:00 PM UTC
Thank you for your kind offer Paul, I may be taking you up on it shortly.
Regarding the buckets, they were very handy for things such as mixing whitewash in.
Regarding the buckets, they were very handy for things such as mixing whitewash in.
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 10:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Regarding the buckets...
From observing that they normally seem to hang from the rear-most and lowest position on a tank, I always assumed they were for a more "earthy" function than mixing white wash, but I expect they were multi-functional. No doubt there's a whole thread somewhere on that subject.
Nice to see the spare track link included in the kit, unlike a recent Dragon offering.
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 10:14 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I have made some more progress on the model. Some friends on another forum pointed out some shortcomings with the Revell Pz III and these really needed attention. The side hatches on the turret have no rain gutters, I made these out of thin plastic strip, they look ok to me. The hatches had no stops so I made them from styrene tube which I sliced thinly and cut to shape, a small piece of stretched sprue was added as the actual stop. Finally the gun ports on the rear of the turret are made from scrap sprue and added. I have undercoated the turret, tracks and lower hull, the upper hull still needs a little work. I hope to have it painted later this week and will update when I have done that. Here are the pictures...
The modified turret...
The hull ready for undercoating...
The tracks undercoated...
The turret undercoated...
The lower hull undercoated...
That's it for now, painting next.
All the best,
Paul
I have made some more progress on the model. Some friends on another forum pointed out some shortcomings with the Revell Pz III and these really needed attention. The side hatches on the turret have no rain gutters, I made these out of thin plastic strip, they look ok to me. The hatches had no stops so I made them from styrene tube which I sliced thinly and cut to shape, a small piece of stretched sprue was added as the actual stop. Finally the gun ports on the rear of the turret are made from scrap sprue and added. I have undercoated the turret, tracks and lower hull, the upper hull still needs a little work. I hope to have it painted later this week and will update when I have done that. Here are the pictures...
The modified turret...
The hull ready for undercoating...
The tracks undercoated...
The turret undercoated...
The lower hull undercoated...
That's it for now, painting next.
All the best,
Paul
PanzerAlexander
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 04:09 AM UTC
Nice progress Paul.
I wonder if anyone has tried building a bucket as described in the followink link.
There is even a downloadable file with the bucket pattern
http://www.blitz72.com/2011/08/scratchbuilding-72n-bucket-for-your-ww2-tanks/
P.A.
I wonder if anyone has tried building a bucket as described in the followink link.
There is even a downloadable file with the bucket pattern
http://www.blitz72.com/2011/08/scratchbuilding-72n-bucket-for-your-ww2-tanks/
P.A.
majjanelson
South Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 04:57 AM UTC
Paul,
Your Pz.Kpfw. IIIL is coming along nicely, and I see that you've found a few ways to get around it being a strictly OOB build.
I've also read that you could use teflon pipe tape/sealant instead of blue-tac to hold the roadwheels on but allow their removal for painting.
Keep up your usual great work!
Your Pz.Kpfw. IIIL is coming along nicely, and I see that you've found a few ways to get around it being a strictly OOB build.
I've also read that you could use teflon pipe tape/sealant instead of blue-tac to hold the roadwheels on but allow their removal for painting.
Keep up your usual great work!
spacewolfdad
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 11:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice progress Paul.
I wonder if anyone has tried building a bucket as described in the followink link.
There is even a downloadable file with the bucket pattern
http://www.blitz72.com/2011/08/scratchbuilding-72n-bucket-for-your-ww2-tanks/
P.A.
Hi Alexander,
This is exactly how the bucket appears on the PE fret, the secret to bending it is to do it around a pencil tip, works a treat.
All the best,
Paul
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 11:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul,
Your Pz.Kpfw. IIIL is coming along nicely, and I see that you've found a few ways to get around it being a strictly OOB build.
I've also read that you could use teflon pipe tape/sealant instead of blue-tac to hold the roadwheels on but allow their removal for painting.
Keep up your usual great work!
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for the comments, I hadn't heard that tip about the teflon pipe tape before, I may give it a try sounds simple enough. I use Blu-tac and the ends of cocktail sticks to blank off the various attachment points on the running gear because I find it a pain having to clean paint out of holes and off lugs to glue the things together. The small amount of time it takes to do it pays off handsomely come the time to fit everything together. As for OOB, well what can I say - I tried, honest.
All the best,
Paul
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2013 - 10:47 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I have finished the upper hull now, I had to do a few enhancements to get it reasonably accurate. I put the wiring on the lights, used some spare photo-etch to enhance the rear Notek lamp and the reflector and finally built a equipment rack out of spare photo-etch and styrene card. The tank is ready for painting and, hopefully, it should be finished quite soon. Here are the photos...
The wiring added to the headlights using 0.2mm lead wire...
The rear Notek lamp and reflector replaced with PE...
The equipment rack installed (the jerry can is for display purposes at the moment)...
I shall get on with the painting now and let you see the results in due course.
All the best,
Paul
I have finished the upper hull now, I had to do a few enhancements to get it reasonably accurate. I put the wiring on the lights, used some spare photo-etch to enhance the rear Notek lamp and the reflector and finally built a equipment rack out of spare photo-etch and styrene card. The tank is ready for painting and, hopefully, it should be finished quite soon. Here are the photos...
The wiring added to the headlights using 0.2mm lead wire...
The rear Notek lamp and reflector replaced with PE...
The equipment rack installed (the jerry can is for display purposes at the moment)...
I shall get on with the painting now and let you see the results in due course.
All the best,
Paul
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2013 - 10:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
finally built a equipment rack out of spare photo-etch and styrene card
It looks good - and you said "OOB" at the start of this log! Still, you're nearly there I guess, and hopefully you've got the paint scheme in your mind at least...?