Excuse this silly question, but this is my first venture into WWII armour. Doing a Flakverling from Tamiya. The colour code should have been Humbrol Matt 67 German Tank Grey but to my inexperienced eye that looks too dark (Left shield) while the Dark Grey on the right looks better or more accurate to me:
What doe you guys think? Is there a better/closer Humbrol enamel I should be using?
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
German WWII colour
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
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Joined: November 21, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 11:56 PM UTC
WARCLOUD
Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Joined: March 31, 2012
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Joined: March 31, 2012
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 12:17 AM UTC
This is hard to judge from pics due to variations in lighting and exposure and camera type etc etc..but I always trust my eye. What color is the plastic? if it's a dark color your paint will be a bit dark. If not, well, trust your eye.
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 12:22 AM UTC
Thanks Gary, and yes, the pic is a poor quality. The plastic is a dark grey almost like that on the right. The recommended colour is very close to black to me...
WARCLOUD
Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Joined: March 31, 2012
KitMaker: 280 posts
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Joined: March 31, 2012
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 01:53 AM UTC
Did you spray or brush paint??
the undercoat or base color will affect the tone of your top paint, in this case making it darker. I actually use that on my vehicles, spraying flat black into the deep places and sharp seams so that when I spray the main color I get darker tones in those places.
A lot of guys use a primer coat to even things out and give a neutral base for their paint, usually a medium to light grey. since your model is molded in a dark grey you might consider an overall grey primer to give that neutral base to paint on and get a more true color.
If you don't want to go through that step, just go lighter with your paint and drive on..trust your eye.
the undercoat or base color will affect the tone of your top paint, in this case making it darker. I actually use that on my vehicles, spraying flat black into the deep places and sharp seams so that when I spray the main color I get darker tones in those places.
A lot of guys use a primer coat to even things out and give a neutral base for their paint, usually a medium to light grey. since your model is molded in a dark grey you might consider an overall grey primer to give that neutral base to paint on and get a more true color.
If you don't want to go through that step, just go lighter with your paint and drive on..trust your eye.
ltb073
New York, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 02:41 AM UTC
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 04:29 AM UTC
Sean;
German WWII "dunkelgrau" (RAL 7021), the standard base (and only one authorized for European theater use through 1942) color used on all German AFV and other military vehicles, big guns, etc. per regulations from Aug 1940 was a dark gray with slight bluish or greenish tint (depending on one's color vision and interpretation! ). It was NOT a simple mix of black and white (i.e., a "neutral gray"), so cannot realistically be represented by any straight "gray" created along that simple gray scale.
How dark was it? That Q has been up, down, and all-around on modeling sites for years! Suffice to say that folks have argued for it being anywhere from "almost black" to something substantially lighter than most model-paint colors offered to represent this essential German color. And I'll stay well clear of the complicated "scale-effect" discussions, Thank You!
I personally find the Tamiya XF-63 "acrylic" pretty nice as a base right from the bottle. I sometimes add in a small amount of light deck-tan or white plus "dark yellow" to lighten it just a little bit, when doing some post-shading and variation on the coat to show some fading.
I also find the Testor's ModelMaster #2094 "schwartzgrau 1939 - 43" matt enamel to be pretty pleasing. Again, I sometimes add in some buff or white to lighten things a tad.
Each of these colors offers an interpretation of the tinted dark gray.
I generally apply these over a very dark Floquil "weathered black" or "engine black" pre-shade & primer coat. As it's dark gray over "black", things can indeed come off being a little dark, but my weathering goes heavily to light dust and "earth" shading, so...
See the below Pz 38(t) E/F painted using the Tamiya XF-63 with very little add-in applied over the Floquil weathered black and fairly heavily "dusted" with first a light over-spray of Tamiya flat earth to hi-light dirtier areas and later a bit of light artist's chalks applied as real dust.
Note that what we see HERE in this pic differs from what we see in other light and with other back-grounds. Take a look at this tank in the Track-Link galleries to see...
Maybe the points being, what you applied as the base (dunkelgrau) may well get quite modified as you go along! And YOU want to be pleased with what you get, in the end!
Cheers!
Bob
German WWII "dunkelgrau" (RAL 7021), the standard base (and only one authorized for European theater use through 1942) color used on all German AFV and other military vehicles, big guns, etc. per regulations from Aug 1940 was a dark gray with slight bluish or greenish tint (depending on one's color vision and interpretation! ). It was NOT a simple mix of black and white (i.e., a "neutral gray"), so cannot realistically be represented by any straight "gray" created along that simple gray scale.
How dark was it? That Q has been up, down, and all-around on modeling sites for years! Suffice to say that folks have argued for it being anywhere from "almost black" to something substantially lighter than most model-paint colors offered to represent this essential German color. And I'll stay well clear of the complicated "scale-effect" discussions, Thank You!
I personally find the Tamiya XF-63 "acrylic" pretty nice as a base right from the bottle. I sometimes add in a small amount of light deck-tan or white plus "dark yellow" to lighten it just a little bit, when doing some post-shading and variation on the coat to show some fading.
I also find the Testor's ModelMaster #2094 "schwartzgrau 1939 - 43" matt enamel to be pretty pleasing. Again, I sometimes add in some buff or white to lighten things a tad.
Each of these colors offers an interpretation of the tinted dark gray.
I generally apply these over a very dark Floquil "weathered black" or "engine black" pre-shade & primer coat. As it's dark gray over "black", things can indeed come off being a little dark, but my weathering goes heavily to light dust and "earth" shading, so...
See the below Pz 38(t) E/F painted using the Tamiya XF-63 with very little add-in applied over the Floquil weathered black and fairly heavily "dusted" with first a light over-spray of Tamiya flat earth to hi-light dirtier areas and later a bit of light artist's chalks applied as real dust.
Note that what we see HERE in this pic differs from what we see in other light and with other back-grounds. Take a look at this tank in the Track-Link galleries to see...
Maybe the points being, what you applied as the base (dunkelgrau) may well get quite modified as you go along! And YOU want to be pleased with what you get, in the end!
Cheers!
Bob
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
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Joined: December 13, 2004
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 06:50 AM UTC
Sean,
This model was sprayed with Humbrol 67 over a black primer, followed by several progressively lighter dry brushes with Humbrol 67/white. As you can see it comes up much lighter. Are you hand painting with a brush? This will give a denser coat. Also ensure you stir the paint well or you may get a medium (as in solvent) heavy coat which will dry slightly shiny and darker.
plastickjunkie
Florida, United States
Joined: December 31, 2009
KitMaker: 399 posts
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 12:46 PM UTC
Sean
Don't get hung up on the color. Even the Germans that were so picky with amongst other things,their paints had variations from even within the same manufacturer. I have seen period pictures of tanks painted in Panzer Grey that almost looked black. The lighting, weathering and film quality also will offer a different view.
Don't get hung up on the color. Even the Germans that were so picky with amongst other things,their paints had variations from even within the same manufacturer. I have seen period pictures of tanks painted in Panzer Grey that almost looked black. The lighting, weathering and film quality also will offer a different view.
kampfy
Texas, United States
Joined: December 19, 2010
KitMaker: 198 posts
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Joined: December 19, 2010
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 03:08 PM UTC
Arizonakid
Arizona, United States
Joined: October 03, 2012
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Joined: October 03, 2012
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 03:45 PM UTC
Hi Sean:
In the end it is your kit, so you should get to do what makes you happy. But if you would consider my suggestion you should not be overly concerned with this. Because there are dozens of things that effect what color something is. There is fading from the sun. How sunny is it today? How much cloud cover is there? There is how many layers of dust? How many times has the crew washed it? Which batch of paint was used. Ultimately I would suggest that there is not a "perfect" or "correct" dark grey as there was just to many things effecting what something looked like on any particular day. To me both colors look good, and you should be able to use either of them and still be correct.
Gary
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,212 posts
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Posted: Monday, October 07, 2013 - 11:53 PM UTC
Thanks everyone for those helpful and informative replies and the posted example pics. There is quite a difference...
I've gone for the lighter "dark grey" and this is how it currently looks:
Now to start weathering.
Again, thanks for all the advice
Sean
I've gone for the lighter "dark grey" and this is how it currently looks:
Now to start weathering.
Again, thanks for all the advice
Sean