Colin-- thanks for the response, I agree the track is always a bugger to do…however, she is coming alone nicely.
DJ

Primer/basecoat is on! Time to do some touch-ups on my cock-ups and then paint! Sorry for crappy photos.

First coat of colour on, my airbrush technique still needs some work but starting to look like an actual tank now!

Looking good.

A little more progress, a coat of Future, decals, another coat of future and a wash. This is the first time I have used future (first time I have gloss coated period!) so there is a learning curve. The Future darkened the paint a lot more than I thought it would.




Now onto detail painting, flat coat, weathering , filters, etc., plus my Panda Tracks to replace the kit tracks.

This is looking great, know what you mean about the future darkening paint colours I've had this many times and now I lighten the base colour a little to try to compensate.

Don't worry about the future effect on the paint- the matt coat will mostly bring everything back in line. Future doesn't darken the paint, it is an illusion to do with the different reflective properties of the gloss surface vs. the original flat paint.

Cool build by the way,
regds
Will

Looking good. Did you find bending the etched light guards tricky? I only ask as the ones on my Firefly build refused to co-operate and stay in the shape I wanted.
Looking forward to seeing the finished result.

awesome!! next time try 3 light coats between panels,boxes . leaving the black basecoat somewhat visible through the diluted topcoat.Next lighten your topcoat with fleshtone & lightly spray inside the first top coat. So the black & topcoat help emphasize the edges while lighter topcoat lightens inside panels. use this same light topcoat for your dry brushing edges.
my 8 cents.
you will get this affect

Colin

Firstly, apologies for coming into this discussion rather late, but I've been out of contact. Your efforts to date look great.

A few suggestions:
1. Somewhat difficult now, I realise, but you should have four holes in the front of each bogie. These were bolt holes so that the return roller arm could be mounted on either end, ie the bogies were not specific to one side or the other. The spacing for the holes can be found by looking at the bolts holding the return roller arm on the other end of the bogie.
2. The small raised cover at the front left corner of the engine deck covers two small red rectangular handles for the engine fire extinguishing system, which should be visible.
3. The securing pins for the filler caps on the water and petrol tanks had fine securing chains so they didn't get lost.
4. On the inside edge of each headlight guard should be a short vertical length of tube (about 0.5mm dia max by 3mm or so long) with a cap secured by a chain. The cap was used to cover the headlight mounting socket when the headlight was removed.

Keep up the good work!

Regards

Rob

Thanks for all the kind words and advice guys!

@ Stephen, I bent the light guards around a round piece of plastic and had to roll them back and forth to get them to stay in the proper shape. The periscope guards were harder because they are so delicate.

@ David, i will have to try that next time around, I am still learning with the airbrush and don't think I have my control down well enough to try the panel shading like you can do, that is impressive!

@ Rob, thanks for the suggestions, good eye for detail!
1. Yes, I noticed this after putting the bogies on, didn't know how to drill the holes in now with so little room so decided to leave as is unless I get a brainwave lol.
2. Is this the one that looks like a vent? Open end facing back? Right under the corner of the turret bustle when it is facing dead ahead?
3. Got them on the gas caps but I missed for the water fill though, I will have to add!
4. Aha! I see that on the walkaround pics, missed it, thanks!

Colin

Item 2 - yes, that one.

regards

Rob

Hi Colin,

Coming along really well.

Al

I like your progress Colin. All of the little details should come out great. I look forward to seeing more.

Thanks for the tips/comments/compliments all! Here are the latest progress pics. Still working away on the tracks, when I get them done I want to add some light soil buildup to them, the lower hull and running gear. Have to do a bit more pigment work and other light weathering as well. Almost done!




I have learned a lot doing this one and can't wait to start on the next one in my modest stash!

Don't forget brackets to hold the camo net on.

Colin-- tools look great, what colors did you use?
thanks
DJ

@Matt - you mean the brackets for the roll of camo netting on the side of the hull? They are there, the roll is just a bit too big, may have to take it off and make it a bit smaller

@DJ,the tools are Gun Metal X10 for the metal bits, the handles I mixed Buff XF57, Flat Yellow XF3 and Flat Brown XF10, for the cleaning rod I mixed the red and brown.

wow, very nice indeed!

lol , yep , no magical floating thingy's, init Matt?

Hi Colin,

Nice progress. The Camo net on the side would have been ripped off in no time, it was stowed on the side of the turret or the rear deck. You could probably get away with it being length wise along bottom where the side skirts would have gone, but in reality Europe was too enclosed for external side stowage on the tank, unlike Africa which had lots of space.

Cheers

Al

Hmmm...what would they have used the brackets along the side for then? Maybe I will move it to the rear deck and put a flat tarp on the side, something that does not stick out much. On another note, does anyone have some spare Sherman road wheels they would be willing to part with? I'd like to add some stowage to the front of the tank and the kit did not come with any spares.

Hi Colin,

Re: Wheels: If you can't get some your side of the water I can send you some.

Al

Thanks Alan! I will let you know if I can't source any here.

Well, apart from the .50 cal and antennae I am calling this one done. It has been a fun build for my first one in 30 years and I learned a lot that I will apply to my next build.