Keith,
It would be a big loss if you were to stop contributing your building experience and first hand experience with the one-to-one scale versions. Please re-consider and continue to share your insights, knowledge and expertise.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Accurate Armour & DML Black Box Saladin.
Sandbox
Joined: October 29, 2002
KitMaker: 350 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 05:30 PM UTC
DriftwoodDan
Joined: March 25, 2015
KitMaker: 23 posts
Armorama: 23 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 06:51 PM UTC
Keith, please do not quit! I really appreciate you and so many others who have knowledge that is shared on this site. I totally enjoy seeing what you have changed on the kit. Like you pointed out, it is sort of an odd mix of pretty darn good to what the heck were they thinking of???? I still laugh when I look at the kits fire extinguishers. It took me a while to figure out what they were supposed to be. I do enjoy building the kit, it is an old school exercise of adding on tie downs, weld beads and working out the exhaust system. Your work really helped me understand the muffler. Stay just a little bit longer!!
BootsDMS
Joined: February 08, 2012
KitMaker: 978 posts
Armorama: 965 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 09:44 PM UTC
Chaps,
Granted that the DML kit has it's shortcomings and we all accept that these days it should've come with a little bit more; that said, even though somewhat pricey, it's really the only injection moulded game in town.
If you want to see what can be done with it, using really just basic modelling skills, a little bit of spare etch, some plastic card and the like then I would recommend that you visit:
petesmodelworld.blogspot.com
If I've cocked up the URL then a bit of Googling to find "Pete's Model World" should work. You might have to trawl back a bit to find the original thread but his efforts - again, I stress using really just the basics - have resulted in no small improvements to a less than complete kit.
His efforts have also been posted on Missing Lynx I believe.
He is a mucker so I must declare an interest but I would recommend you have a look.
'Hope this helps,
Brian
Granted that the DML kit has it's shortcomings and we all accept that these days it should've come with a little bit more; that said, even though somewhat pricey, it's really the only injection moulded game in town.
If you want to see what can be done with it, using really just basic modelling skills, a little bit of spare etch, some plastic card and the like then I would recommend that you visit:
petesmodelworld.blogspot.com
If I've cocked up the URL then a bit of Googling to find "Pete's Model World" should work. You might have to trawl back a bit to find the original thread but his efforts - again, I stress using really just the basics - have resulted in no small improvements to a less than complete kit.
His efforts have also been posted on Missing Lynx I believe.
He is a mucker so I must declare an interest but I would recommend you have a look.
'Hope this helps,
Brian
TankSGT
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 - 03:35 AM UTC
Luckymodell has it listed for $39.98 US plus shipping. I got mine for a total of $54 including the shipping same place. So I'm not unhappy. Its a styrene Saladin that is adequate for what I paid. Its well within my skill set to add the missing details. Thanks again for tbe pictures and veteran's imput.
Tom
Tom
ALBOWIE
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 1,605 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 - 05:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Keith is the second guy, in two days, who said he won't post here in Armorama anymore.
There is something wrong around here. Where are our moderators?
I know Jim said we are all grown men, but if we have moderators, we need that they work and get some position about it.
Just my two cents.
Marco
I think you'll find a moderator WAS the problem in one of those cases.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 05:59 AM UTC
Here you can see a slide moulded (I think because it has no seams) ground mounting (tripod) for the commanders .30 cal. MG. resting on the front wing...
Problem is, it is a BIPOD! they forgot to mold the third leg (DUH)!
No, it is not hiding as a separate part in the box.
I will have to add the leg, flip it over and add the tie down strap (also missing).
Now, as someone else mentioned, what on earth is this supposed to be? (below).
Oh yes, according to the part number and instructions it is a fire extinguisher...
You could have fooled me!
Now I said I would build the majority of this model out of the box but these have got to be replaced because they resemble nothing I have ever seen in British military service!
I have to admit though, it is 'beginning to resemble' a Saladin FV601. 6X6 Armoured Car.
Keith.
Problem is, it is a BIPOD! they forgot to mold the third leg (DUH)!
No, it is not hiding as a separate part in the box.
I will have to add the leg, flip it over and add the tie down strap (also missing).
Now, as someone else mentioned, what on earth is this supposed to be? (below).
Oh yes, according to the part number and instructions it is a fire extinguisher...
You could have fooled me!
Now I said I would build the majority of this model out of the box but these have got to be replaced because they resemble nothing I have ever seen in British military service!
I have to admit though, it is 'beginning to resemble' a Saladin FV601. 6X6 Armoured Car.
Keith.
DaGreatQueeg
Joined: August 01, 2005
KitMaker: 1,049 posts
Armorama: 841 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:16 AM UTC
It's the silly missing details and head shaking things like the "fire extinguisher" that are fuelling Dragons bad press and slide from the top. Bizarre.
Great blog though Keith, background info is really interesting and a clear look at what the kit actually looks like so buyers can go in knowing what they get.
Although the AA kit is a clear winner my budget is so tight I can see me getting one of these as I've always wanted one on the shelf.
Brent
Great blog though Keith, background info is really interesting and a clear look at what the kit actually looks like so buyers can go in knowing what they get.
Although the AA kit is a clear winner my budget is so tight I can see me getting one of these as I've always wanted one on the shelf.
Brent
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 04:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
It's the silly missing details and head shaking things like the "fire extinguisher" that are fuelling Dragons bad press and slide from the top. Bizarre.
Great blog though Keith, background info is really interesting and a clear look at what the kit actually looks like so buyers can go in knowing what they get.
Although the AA kit is a clear winner my budget is so tight I can see me getting one of these as I've always wanted one on the shelf.
Brent
Brent, you got it nailed Sir. I have this beast sitting on my store shelf at $64.95 and with IPMS and AMPS club membership discount (Local chapters only) of 10%. This makes it a bit more digestable and readily available...
I am an average and mid level builder and like to see my models finished with an acceptable level and degree of accuracy, therefore simple additions and corrections are what I like to stick to.
The basics of this vehicle are present in the kit but with some glaringly large and blatantly obvious shortcomings..
I am confident that once a few items are added, removed and replaced a fairly nice 1/35th scale Saladin will be the result.
DML or Black Box could have easily done better with this and should they venture into the Saracen and or Stalwart (with cab interior?) side of things they had better up their game and not the price, it's high enough.
Keith.
BootsDMS
Joined: February 08, 2012
KitMaker: 978 posts
Armorama: 965 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 07:43 PM UTC
Chaps,
As suggested by me earlier - please do have a look at Pete Smith's blog (Pete's Model World) - or track him down on Missing Lynx's Constructive Criticism; he's tackled practically all the problems with this kit eg suspension height, fire extinguishers (guaranteed they are a resin replacement), MGs, spotlight, tow cables, hatch details - including the Driver's, details on the rear mesh and so on.
I feel he's done a good job and his work may be of use to you all. His vehicle is one set in the Aden Emergency (1963-67)but most of the details will be applicable to nearly all Saladins I feel.
Again, I hope this is of some use.
Regards,
Brian
As suggested by me earlier - please do have a look at Pete Smith's blog (Pete's Model World) - or track him down on Missing Lynx's Constructive Criticism; he's tackled practically all the problems with this kit eg suspension height, fire extinguishers (guaranteed they are a resin replacement), MGs, spotlight, tow cables, hatch details - including the Driver's, details on the rear mesh and so on.
I feel he's done a good job and his work may be of use to you all. His vehicle is one set in the Aden Emergency (1963-67)but most of the details will be applicable to nearly all Saladins I feel.
Again, I hope this is of some use.
Regards,
Brian
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 04, 2015 - 03:05 AM UTC
A little further forward in my march to complete this Black Box Saladin and a warning (notice)..
As you can see below the rear facing periscope is in place along with the spring loaded hood (cover).
The instructions (below) are wrong, REALLY wrong!.. Look carefully and you can see that they indicate the periscope A34 and cover A35 should be inserted from the outside of the turret, downwards and 'in front of the gunner/op's position' ?
In fact it should be inserted UPWARDS from inside of the turret and BEHIND the commanders location (of course)... Almost laughable if it wasn't so sad and typical of the shortcomings of this kit..
I have replaced the antenna bases and huge poles (antennas) that come with the kit because they don't have any detail or resemblance to the real items. The ones I have used are AA items and correct for the Larkspur range of radio sets. Its development started in the late 1940s with the first equipments being issued in the mid-1950s. It remained in service until replaced by Clansman in the late-1970s although some elements of Larkspur were still in service well into the 1980s. It was widely exported to British Commonwealth armies and other friendly nations as well.
The antenna sections came in 4ft sections and decreased in circumference from bottom section to top section, when all four sections were screwed together you then had a 16ft antenna.
The most commonly used were the top two sections (8ft) and a V shaped coupling was often seen in use on the base at the rear of the turret with two 8ft or 12ft sections being used. The bases in most use were the rear antenna base and the one in front of the commander. Two radios in use C13 and C42. radios.
The ground mounting (Tripod) actually has three legs now but the whole thing is a little short in length.. I have also added more acceptable fire extinguishers, version BCF (Bromochlorodifluoromethane, also known by the trade name Halon 1211) and correct for the year I intend to model (late 1967) with turn indicators.
The shovel and pick head have been replaced by items from the spare parts box(s) Pick head retaining wheel will be detailed later..
Have a great Easter.
Keith.
As you can see below the rear facing periscope is in place along with the spring loaded hood (cover).
The instructions (below) are wrong, REALLY wrong!.. Look carefully and you can see that they indicate the periscope A34 and cover A35 should be inserted from the outside of the turret, downwards and 'in front of the gunner/op's position' ?
In fact it should be inserted UPWARDS from inside of the turret and BEHIND the commanders location (of course)... Almost laughable if it wasn't so sad and typical of the shortcomings of this kit..
I have replaced the antenna bases and huge poles (antennas) that come with the kit because they don't have any detail or resemblance to the real items. The ones I have used are AA items and correct for the Larkspur range of radio sets. Its development started in the late 1940s with the first equipments being issued in the mid-1950s. It remained in service until replaced by Clansman in the late-1970s although some elements of Larkspur were still in service well into the 1980s. It was widely exported to British Commonwealth armies and other friendly nations as well.
The antenna sections came in 4ft sections and decreased in circumference from bottom section to top section, when all four sections were screwed together you then had a 16ft antenna.
The most commonly used were the top two sections (8ft) and a V shaped coupling was often seen in use on the base at the rear of the turret with two 8ft or 12ft sections being used. The bases in most use were the rear antenna base and the one in front of the commander. Two radios in use C13 and C42. radios.
The ground mounting (Tripod) actually has three legs now but the whole thing is a little short in length.. I have also added more acceptable fire extinguishers, version BCF (Bromochlorodifluoromethane, also known by the trade name Halon 1211) and correct for the year I intend to model (late 1967) with turn indicators.
The shovel and pick head have been replaced by items from the spare parts box(s) Pick head retaining wheel will be detailed later..
Have a great Easter.
Keith.
DriftwoodDan
Joined: March 25, 2015
KitMaker: 23 posts
Armorama: 23 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 11:34 PM UTC
Great work Keith! I have really added a lot to my knowledge of this kit from your efforts. Does the pick head on the Saladin use the same type of nut to lock it down as the Ferret? In the very few sources I have, none have shown this detail.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 03:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Great work Keith! I have really added a lot to my knowledge of this kit from your efforts. Does the pick head on the Saladin use the same type of nut to lock it down as the Ferret? In the very few sources I have, none have shown this detail.
Yes mate it is the same item.
Thank's for looking in and following along.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 11, 2015 - 05:59 PM UTC
I did manage to get a couple of hours in my shed and work on the Saladin yesterday but most of it was reworking items I wasn't happy with.
I removed the tripod and replaced it with the more 'to scale' and detailed AA one. I added the commanders periscopes and cover and also 'thinned' the legs between the 'scopes'. The MG mount is missing (of course) but I will add that.
The step/covers to the front torsion bar had to be sanded, thinned and cut in order to have them fit correctly.
The front and rear of the torsion bar had a Black rubber cap. It was held in place by a hose clip. This was removed now and then and the cap replaced when it perished or cracked because of paint.
During servicing/drivers maintainance, the cap would bulge slightly as the pumped in grease attained the correct amount/level. It was more prudent to remove the cap and replace it when the grease pushed out of the ends, signifying it was done (serviced) correctly.
Anyway I hope to get a little more work done today and add a couple of pictures as well.
Keith.
I removed the tripod and replaced it with the more 'to scale' and detailed AA one. I added the commanders periscopes and cover and also 'thinned' the legs between the 'scopes'. The MG mount is missing (of course) but I will add that.
The step/covers to the front torsion bar had to be sanded, thinned and cut in order to have them fit correctly.
The front and rear of the torsion bar had a Black rubber cap. It was held in place by a hose clip. This was removed now and then and the cap replaced when it perished or cracked because of paint.
During servicing/drivers maintainance, the cap would bulge slightly as the pumped in grease attained the correct amount/level. It was more prudent to remove the cap and replace it when the grease pushed out of the ends, signifying it was done (serviced) correctly.
Anyway I hope to get a little more work done today and add a couple of pictures as well.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2015 - 05:07 PM UTC
So here we are again and you can see for yourself, the 'wonderful Jerrican' provided with the kit, no cap and designed for a left handed person only? (Only one handle)... not going to mess with it, I will replace the item. The Don10 cable reel has been thinned down and wire will be added after painting.
The locating wheel for the pick head has been updated and all of the welded on loops have been sanded (easier when glued in place). Fill the locating holes with Zap A Gap CA and it oozes out to form small weld beads!
The unused antenna blanking plates have been sanded almost flush and received some bolt heads.
And I have replaced the Jerrican holder on the rear wing. It still needs a divider in it because a small can of OX8 oil (brake fluid) was normally stowed up against the hull.
DO NOT fill the seams in on the sides of the smoke grenade launchers, they were removed in order to attach the wires from the grenade explosive propellant leads.
Wire has been installed between the rear of the exhaust barrel and the fender, great for holding your cans of Compo or soup in place.
Now starting to look like a Saladin but a ways to go yet.
Small cuts made between the front side lights and indicators as these were individual mountings. I need to cut back the side of the light guards, they are to large.
A primer coat of Vallejo dark Green primer has been applied and the turret is sitting on the hull ring hence the odd look, the wheels are not glued in place yet.
Still much left to do but progress at least.
Keith.
The locating wheel for the pick head has been updated and all of the welded on loops have been sanded (easier when glued in place). Fill the locating holes with Zap A Gap CA and it oozes out to form small weld beads!
The unused antenna blanking plates have been sanded almost flush and received some bolt heads.
And I have replaced the Jerrican holder on the rear wing. It still needs a divider in it because a small can of OX8 oil (brake fluid) was normally stowed up against the hull.
DO NOT fill the seams in on the sides of the smoke grenade launchers, they were removed in order to attach the wires from the grenade explosive propellant leads.
Wire has been installed between the rear of the exhaust barrel and the fender, great for holding your cans of Compo or soup in place.
Now starting to look like a Saladin but a ways to go yet.
Small cuts made between the front side lights and indicators as these were individual mountings. I need to cut back the side of the light guards, they are to large.
A primer coat of Vallejo dark Green primer has been applied and the turret is sitting on the hull ring hence the odd look, the wheels are not glued in place yet.
Still much left to do but progress at least.
Keith.
dvarettoni
Joined: September 28, 2005
KitMaker: 778 posts
Armorama: 763 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2015 - 08:08 PM UTC
Keith loking good can't wait to see it next mouth
dave
dave
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2015 - 04:45 PM UTC
I only managed to get a couple of hours dedictated to the Saladin yesterday.
A nice coat of Valejo 'Bronze Green' on the vehicle and a coat of Testors 'flat Black' on the tires (tyres) and the rubber boots (or what resembles them).
Everything was then set aside to dry.
I will try and add a couple of pictures during the week.
Keith.
A nice coat of Valejo 'Bronze Green' on the vehicle and a coat of Testors 'flat Black' on the tires (tyres) and the rubber boots (or what resembles them).
Everything was then set aside to dry.
I will try and add a couple of pictures during the week.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 - 04:41 AM UTC
A quick update now that the 'Bronze Green and Black paint has dried.
The sheen of the Green is intentional and correct for the Bronze Green finish.
The wheels are still not glued in place and the swing (steering) arms are not attached.
Some adjustment (sanding) to the upper part of the suspension will need to take place in order for the wheels to attain the correct toe in and cant, especially on the front pair (L. and R.).
All wheels were inflated to 42psi in the Far East but the 'look' is for the beast to seem like it sits lower down at the rear end.
I still have to work on correcting a few more items as I start to pick out the missing colors and add a few items of stowage and markings.
The kit is missing the exhaust pipes emerging from the engine bay side wall (lower rear right) and connecting to the exhaust muffler (Barrel). A very obvious omission!
The middle and rear wheels (inside of rim) need to have the steering arm locating holes filled as they are only required for the front pair.
All of them (wheels) of course will require a slight sanding to help lower and flatten the bottom of the tires (tyres).
A small step forwards and towards completion.
Keith.
The sheen of the Green is intentional and correct for the Bronze Green finish.
The wheels are still not glued in place and the swing (steering) arms are not attached.
Some adjustment (sanding) to the upper part of the suspension will need to take place in order for the wheels to attain the correct toe in and cant, especially on the front pair (L. and R.).
All wheels were inflated to 42psi in the Far East but the 'look' is for the beast to seem like it sits lower down at the rear end.
I still have to work on correcting a few more items as I start to pick out the missing colors and add a few items of stowage and markings.
The kit is missing the exhaust pipes emerging from the engine bay side wall (lower rear right) and connecting to the exhaust muffler (Barrel). A very obvious omission!
The middle and rear wheels (inside of rim) need to have the steering arm locating holes filled as they are only required for the front pair.
All of them (wheels) of course will require a slight sanding to help lower and flatten the bottom of the tires (tyres).
A small step forwards and towards completion.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 23, 2015 - 05:25 PM UTC
My service on this beast allowed me to occupy all three positions, Gunner op first, followed by driver and then commander.
The driving position was quite cramped and care was needed when gear changing because there isn't a clutch but a GCP (gear change pedal). the gearbox was a 'pre select' system and you selected the next gear required and 'stomped' on the GCP to engage the gear. Once you hit 5th you then pre selected 4th. etc. Should you fail to use the GCP correctly, the pedal could 'kick back' and slam your knee into the cross shaft (a false neutral pedal position).. A hefty push was then needed to get the pedal back into the correct location and operational.
The drivers hatch catch in the fully open position could fail if not correctly positioned (secured) and if it did the torsion bar assisted by wind and cross country movement could slam the hatch (periscope) into your face. The smaller hatch commonly known as the 'battle hatch' could also cause you to have 'hatch rash' if it wasn't opened and closed correctly.
When fully closed the three small persiscopes (episcopes) were perfectly adequate but not smart at night (battle hatch was the norm) when closed down.
Maintainance needed to be followed correctly and in a timely fashion, especially the adjustment of the brakes (on all six wheels) and if it was, this was a very reliable mount.
Up in the turret things were well laid out and quite spacious. The gunnery side of things kept you busy when firing because you were also responsible for the CoAx .30 Browning and the many stoppages due to the horrible cloth ammo belt.
The radios behind you were well positioned and easy to operate, in fact in the UK we were able to down tune and listen to Radio One (showing my age here). Of course we never did that nor did we speak into our microphones and have our speach heard on nearby civilian car radios also on (listening to) Radio One... You know, "hello and good morning, I like your hair today" etc.
The electric cooking pot issued made tea/ coffee and ration heating simple, it plugged in under the commanders seat location, just don't spill hot water on his feet or boots..
A two gear, high and low ratio hand traverse was supplimented by a second handle on the commanders side and also a torque (power) converter made for easy travers, something Scorpion and Scimitar needed but for some reason wasn't present.
The gunners sight was simple but efficient for the job with no night vision capability. X1 window and a X10 eyepiece.
No other visual ports or scopes were available to the gunner/op.
Internal stowage of water, rations, ammo and personal and radio gear was his responsibility as well.
I will talk about the commander later.
Keith.
The driving position was quite cramped and care was needed when gear changing because there isn't a clutch but a GCP (gear change pedal). the gearbox was a 'pre select' system and you selected the next gear required and 'stomped' on the GCP to engage the gear. Once you hit 5th you then pre selected 4th. etc. Should you fail to use the GCP correctly, the pedal could 'kick back' and slam your knee into the cross shaft (a false neutral pedal position).. A hefty push was then needed to get the pedal back into the correct location and operational.
The drivers hatch catch in the fully open position could fail if not correctly positioned (secured) and if it did the torsion bar assisted by wind and cross country movement could slam the hatch (periscope) into your face. The smaller hatch commonly known as the 'battle hatch' could also cause you to have 'hatch rash' if it wasn't opened and closed correctly.
When fully closed the three small persiscopes (episcopes) were perfectly adequate but not smart at night (battle hatch was the norm) when closed down.
Maintainance needed to be followed correctly and in a timely fashion, especially the adjustment of the brakes (on all six wheels) and if it was, this was a very reliable mount.
Up in the turret things were well laid out and quite spacious. The gunnery side of things kept you busy when firing because you were also responsible for the CoAx .30 Browning and the many stoppages due to the horrible cloth ammo belt.
The radios behind you were well positioned and easy to operate, in fact in the UK we were able to down tune and listen to Radio One (showing my age here). Of course we never did that nor did we speak into our microphones and have our speach heard on nearby civilian car radios also on (listening to) Radio One... You know, "hello and good morning, I like your hair today" etc.
The electric cooking pot issued made tea/ coffee and ration heating simple, it plugged in under the commanders seat location, just don't spill hot water on his feet or boots..
A two gear, high and low ratio hand traverse was supplimented by a second handle on the commanders side and also a torque (power) converter made for easy travers, something Scorpion and Scimitar needed but for some reason wasn't present.
The gunners sight was simple but efficient for the job with no night vision capability. X1 window and a X10 eyepiece.
No other visual ports or scopes were available to the gunner/op.
Internal stowage of water, rations, ammo and personal and radio gear was his responsibility as well.
I will talk about the commander later.
Keith.
iowabrit
Joined: November 06, 2007
KitMaker: 585 posts
Armorama: 557 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 23, 2015 - 06:07 PM UTC
A couple of other details I recall from my time as a Ferret/Scimitar crew/commander. Didn't the antenna base have a ground strap of woven wire, I seen to remember it was left unpainted and the antenna itself was held in place by a clamp using a wingnut. I've read elsewhere about Saladin family wheel hubs having a white stripe or mark to indicate 'wind up' in the drive train. The boiling vessel was the most important bit of kit on the vehicle...lol Oh and I too suffered 'Ferret rash' on one occasion.
Thanks for a really great review. I have the kit but was pretty disappointed when I got it.....another missed opportunity for Dragon to show what they are capable of.
Thanks for a really great review. I have the kit but was pretty disappointed when I got it.....another missed opportunity for Dragon to show what they are capable of.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 23, 2015 - 10:37 PM UTC
Yes mate your quite correct. It was a strip of braided wire about a half inch wide, one eighth thick and a four or so inches long (earthing strip).
We also used a home (REME) built v shaped adaptor that was held in the rear antenna base and two eight foot (middle and top sections) antennas were inserted and used, in the belief we would have a better chance of sending and receiving messages in the Jungle and hilly areas of the Far East.
The front antenna was normally inserted vertically, directly into the base, the rear ones used a ratchet adaptor as well for laying the antennas back at a rough 45 degree angle unless the V shaped one was made that way.
Keith.
We also used a home (REME) built v shaped adaptor that was held in the rear antenna base and two eight foot (middle and top sections) antennas were inserted and used, in the belief we would have a better chance of sending and receiving messages in the Jungle and hilly areas of the Far East.
The front antenna was normally inserted vertically, directly into the base, the rear ones used a ratchet adaptor as well for laying the antennas back at a rough 45 degree angle unless the V shaped one was made that way.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 26, 2015 - 05:08 PM UTC
I did manage to get the front pair of wheels in place and at what I believe is the correct angle. The connecting steering arms, two for each of the front wheels and one for the center pair were not to hard to get in place.
I used some good old Testors tube cement initially and that gave a me a little working (adjusting) time. Once happy I added a spot of CA Plastizap (my glue of choice).
Only one locating hole is needed on the inside of the center wheels and none for the rear pair so the uneeded locating holes can be filled. Easier done before you put the wheels on.
Look carefully at the locating holes on the back of the wheels and you will notice they are not level with the center of the circle. So you need to ensure you place them on correctly.
I have also seen some pictures of the completed model with the exhaust barrel completey painted as if the 'whole thing' has rust on the exterior?
The exhaust that you are looking at is a 'COVER/SHIELD' and showed very little if any rusting whatsoever.
Heat distorted and paint fade yes, especially on the flat rear face and middle portion of the curved top but crews were often seen repainting the cover/shield and rear fender.
No photos today but I will try and add some this weekend.
Keith.
I used some good old Testors tube cement initially and that gave a me a little working (adjusting) time. Once happy I added a spot of CA Plastizap (my glue of choice).
Only one locating hole is needed on the inside of the center wheels and none for the rear pair so the uneeded locating holes can be filled. Easier done before you put the wheels on.
Look carefully at the locating holes on the back of the wheels and you will notice they are not level with the center of the circle. So you need to ensure you place them on correctly.
I have also seen some pictures of the completed model with the exhaust barrel completey painted as if the 'whole thing' has rust on the exterior?
The exhaust that you are looking at is a 'COVER/SHIELD' and showed very little if any rusting whatsoever.
Heat distorted and paint fade yes, especially on the flat rear face and middle portion of the curved top but crews were often seen repainting the cover/shield and rear fender.
No photos today but I will try and add some this weekend.
Keith.
AlanL
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
Armorama: 11,675 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 26, 2015 - 09:14 PM UTC
Hi Keith,
I've been follwoing along, a really useful thread. Kit is looking grand, nice nice.
Al
I've been follwoing along, a really useful thread. Kit is looking grand, nice nice.
Al
ALBOWIE
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 1,605 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2015 - 07:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Yes mate your quite correct. It was a strip of braided wire about a half inch wide, one eighth thick and a four or so inches long (earthing strip).
We also used a home (REME) built v shaped adaptor that was held in the rear antenna base and two eight foot (middle and top sections) antennas were inserted and used, in the belief we would have a better chance of sending and receiving messages in the Jungle and hilly areas of the Far East.
The front antenna was normally inserted vertically, directly into the base, the rear ones used a ratchet adaptor as well for laying the antennas back at a rough 45 degree angle unless the V shaped one was made that way.
Keith.
The Earth Strip can easily be found using a product called Solder Wick which is braided copper impregnated with flux used in cleaning up and removing solder. Most Electronics suppliers carry it. They make it in a series (incl minute) widths
Great work on this project
Al
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 03:20 AM UTC
We have a small update to add today.
This is the base I will be using and I will choose one of the two Life Guard badges shown as well as our brigade badge from the far east.
The base will have a small area of ground work added.
All the wheels and steering arms are now glued in place but still require a final tweak when the ground work is done.
The commanders spotlight mounting was replaced, a handle added and it has been repositoned, this stopped branched from smashing the lens. It still needs a power cable.
I have also added the Red twist and pull engine compartment fire extinguisher handles on the hull side and painted the ends of the wheel bolts White.
Wire has been wrapped around the cable reel and you can see the wooden handle (R.) for the Pick and on the left the Barrel cleaning staves (a stack of 3) not well represented in the kit. early versions had Brass connecting ends as this did not wear the end of the barrel if used incorrectly (soft metal). later they were changed to steel. The new (late 66) plastic Black water can is stowed but no strap yet.
The gunners sight window and the headlight lenses did not require any glue, they were a perfect fit (amazing) the same for the spotlight.
Turn indicators, stop lights and reflectors have their first coat of paint. Mudflaps need to be added and things will look nicer when the markings are applied.
Have a great evening.
Keith.
This is the base I will be using and I will choose one of the two Life Guard badges shown as well as our brigade badge from the far east.
The base will have a small area of ground work added.
All the wheels and steering arms are now glued in place but still require a final tweak when the ground work is done.
The commanders spotlight mounting was replaced, a handle added and it has been repositoned, this stopped branched from smashing the lens. It still needs a power cable.
I have also added the Red twist and pull engine compartment fire extinguisher handles on the hull side and painted the ends of the wheel bolts White.
Wire has been wrapped around the cable reel and you can see the wooden handle (R.) for the Pick and on the left the Barrel cleaning staves (a stack of 3) not well represented in the kit. early versions had Brass connecting ends as this did not wear the end of the barrel if used incorrectly (soft metal). later they were changed to steel. The new (late 66) plastic Black water can is stowed but no strap yet.
The gunners sight window and the headlight lenses did not require any glue, they were a perfect fit (amazing) the same for the spotlight.
Turn indicators, stop lights and reflectors have their first coat of paint. Mudflaps need to be added and things will look nicer when the markings are applied.
Have a great evening.
Keith.
Keef1648
Joined: January 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,240 posts
Armorama: 1,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 10, 2015 - 04:43 PM UTC
I worked on the Saladin model yesterday and some of you may recognize the markings.
This particular Saladin was in C. Sqn. The Life Guards and my mount at one point.
A way to go yet, with a little groundwork for the base required.
I have added the web strap to the Tripod, these were both Tan/light Brown or medium Green if replaced by newer ones. The same for the Jerrican. The crews punched holes through the straps and used a small nut and bolt with a couple of washers.
The model has been and is quite frustrating and I am adding things as I go. Markings for for the BCF. fire extinguishers will be added later and the very last item, the wing mirrors.
Power for the smoke grenade launchers still to be added as well as the commanders Browning and barrel clamp.
The kit decals DO NOT include the convoy panel markings (Black and White vertical stripes) placed under the convoy light and above the starting dog/plug..
Have a great day.
Keith.
This particular Saladin was in C. Sqn. The Life Guards and my mount at one point.
A way to go yet, with a little groundwork for the base required.
I have added the web strap to the Tripod, these were both Tan/light Brown or medium Green if replaced by newer ones. The same for the Jerrican. The crews punched holes through the straps and used a small nut and bolt with a couple of washers.
The model has been and is quite frustrating and I am adding things as I go. Markings for for the BCF. fire extinguishers will be added later and the very last item, the wing mirrors.
Power for the smoke grenade launchers still to be added as well as the commanders Browning and barrel clamp.
The kit decals DO NOT include the convoy panel markings (Black and White vertical stripes) placed under the convoy light and above the starting dog/plug..
Have a great day.
Keith.
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