While I'm interested in seeing how the two kits compare in sizes and shapes, you are essentially comparing apples to oranges. Comparing a mass market, injection molded kit with a small market resin produced kit is not a valid comparison for many reasons, but the biggest is price.

Currently, the AA kit is about $115 USD, whereas the Dragon kit is $40 from Lucky. I think it is valid to use the Lucky price, since buying the AA kit would also involve shipping overseas to North America (in my case). Would I expect to get an AA quality kit for just about 3 times the price. Of course!

Even if I add in a set of DEF wheels (which are sure to come at about $20-25), a Voyager PE set ($15-20), and heck, maybe someone will do a new turret with the perfect hatch corrections (say $25-30), the total cost would still be no more then the AA kit. Will this be the AA kit's equal? Probably not, but it will get close, and probably be a bit easier to build even with all the aftermarket.

I'm not suggested that seeing the two kits compared isn't valid. What I am suggesting is that all things need to be considered before we again start tearing apart a plastic kit. Simply put, I am not going to expect that same from a $40 plastic kit that I will from a $115 resin kit, no different then I wouldn't expect the same from a $20K Ford versus a $60K Mercedes.

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While I'm interested in seeing how the two kits compare in sizes and shapes, you are essentially comparing apples to oranges. Comparing a mass market, injection molded kit with a small market resin produced kit is not a valid comparison for many reasons, but the biggest is price.

Currently, the AA kit is about $115 USD, whereas the Dragon kit is $40 from Lucky. I think it is valid to use the Lucky price, since buying the AA kit would also involve shipping overseas to North America (in my case). Would I expect to get an AA quality kit for just about 3 times the price. Of course!

Even if I add in a set of DEF wheels (which are sure to come at about $20-25), a Voyager PE set ($15-20), and heck, maybe someone will do a new turret with the perfect hatch corrections (say $25-30), the total cost would still be no more then the AA kit. Will this be the AA kit's equal? Probably not, but it will get close, and probably be a bit easier to build even with all the aftermarket.

I'm not suggested that seeing the two kits compared isn't valid. What I am suggesting is that all things need to be considered before we again start tearing apart a plastic kit. Simply put, I am not going to expect that same from a $40 plastic kit that I will from a $115 resin kit, no different then I wouldn't expect the same from a $20K Ford versus a $60K Mercedes.

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Good stuff.
If you want the best kit buy the AA one, if you really don't give a sh*t about the elitism BS , buy the Dragon. Comparing these 2 models is just plain stupid. The AA kit is said to be the most accurate in the world with an interior...so I'm guessing it is...look at the price!!
Kudo's for both companies giving us a choice.

check out the awesome AA kit
http://www.accurate-armour.com/ShowProduct.cfm?category=20&subcategory=6&product=2254&manufacturer=0

Keith,

Your Saladin is coming along nicely.

I think it would be quite useful to see you build both kits from DML and Accurate Armor. What comes in each box, how the details compare, the pros and cons of each, etc., etc. And the real-world info you are providing is invaluable!

Will you put a striking familiar figure with your Saladin?

Drive on.

Jeff

Keith,

Excellent job on this kit. Thanks so much for walking us all through this. The fixes you detail are not onerous, notwithstanding that they are numerous! If I can get this kit for $30-40 I'll certainly be buying one.

A couple of questions, if I may:
One thing that I always look for is basic shape inaccuracies. With your familiarity with the vehicle, are there anything (other than possibly the wheels) that strike you as wrong, shapewise? Angles, sizes, locations, etc?

It's not clear from the photos and I don't have the kit, but where does the actual exhaust exit the muffler and muffler cover?

The last questions is the radiator grille you created. It appears to be actual fine woven wire mesh that is then shaped to conform to the compound angles of the transition between the peaked profile at the front of the inlet louvers to the flat profile at the rear and then you added a frame of strip styrene. Is this basically correct?

And, again, thanks for "taking one for the team". :-)

Paul

The framing should be round but again I used what I thought would work and readily to hand

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The framing should be round but again I used what I thought would work and readily to hand

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So more like a frame of rod/tube rather than flat strip or more like a half/round picture frame.

In either case, "I see what you did there".

"Salad Tin" That is both apropos and just as irreverent as I would expect from the normal British squaddie sense of humour.

Paul