Within the kit Dragon provides two tow cable ends with a very simplistic moulded on rectangle of plastic that is supposed to represent the mounting base and retaining clamp. It does not even come close to looking realistic. Dragon also provides a length of string to represent the tow cable.

Now I am by no means a tow cable aficionado but I have used my share of aftermarket tow cables and the string tow cables do not cut it. String tow cables do not seem limited to lower end kits but they are still common place in expensive well detailed kits and aftermarket conversions. Companies need to invest only a touch more effort and capital in order to get rid of the string and include copper tow cables.

I cut and sanded off the blobs of plastic on the tow cable ends and ditched the string. I replaced the string with the nicely braided copper tow cable provided in the Voyager Model M103A1 detail set. I drilled out the ends a bit to accept the copper cable before attaching it with CA glue. Within that set are also PE tow cable retaining brackets for the M103A1.

Upon reviewing my reference images I came to the conclusion that the M103A2 uses the same type of tow cable retaining brackets but they were moved to the sides of the turret and attached to a welded on base place instead of the previous hull sponson location on the M103A1.

I created a simple styrene base plate and attached them to the turret in alignment with reference placement. I then attached the PE brackets to the base plates.

Next I used the PE tow cable U shaped brackets from the Legend Productions M60A1/A3 detail set and attached them along the bottom edge of the turret.

Starting on the right side of the turret I attached the tow cable end to the bracket and added the hinged portion and wing nut PE parts.

I fed the tow cable around the turret and into the U shaped brackets. At each U shaped bracket I secured the tow cable with a touch of CA glue and created slight dips to add some variation as it travelled around the turret base. Once over to the left side of the turret the process was repeated to secure the tow cable end.

During this phase of the build I also added weld seams to the four turret lifting eyes and to the searchlight socket.

The result looks good and miles (or kilometres) ahead of what was provided in the kit.

I was surprised that the M103A2 had only a single tow cable given the massive size of the tank and other tanks such as the M48 and M60 had two tow cables.

One of the subtle yet important details absent on the turret of the Dragon kit are the casting numbers and foundry mark on the turret. These markings are quick visible on the turret and a feature I thought would be important to add during my build.

I looks at a few different options such as cutting off plastic numbers/letters from sprues, using PE numbers/letters, and using resin numbers/letters.

I chose to use the Archer Fine Details Resin Casting Marks. This is a set crossing multiple scales and contains a multitude of raised resin casting marks on clear decal sheet.

Using reference material I selected numbers and letters that would provide a generic representation.

The location of the emblem foundry mark is on the left side of the turret. The other locations for casting numbers were in the left turret roof, on top of the small turret ventilator, and in front of the gunner's sight housing.

Using the resin decals was not an issue and a dap of Microsol held the markings in place until the primer coat is applied.

The result is very appealing and adds another dimension of detail to the massive turret.

The Dragon kit represents the tie down loops on the turret as simple moulded on nubs. During the turret build I had sanded them off in anticipating of replacing them with PE versions.

I used the PE tie downs provided in the Voyager Model M103A1 detail set. The instructions show a PE part that is allegedly included that is bent to create a jib from which the tie downs are formed. For the life of me I could not find the jib part on the PE frets.

I created a simply styrene jig on my work bench and got to forming the tie downs. For a tank this large I expected many more tie downs around the turret storage racks but references showed there were only eight.

I placed the tie downs the best I could given references. A simple addition to add a pop more detail.

I took a break from the turret and moved back to the hull to add more details.

I replaced the mould on fender tie downs with PE versions.

I also used parts from the Voyager Model detail set to add pioneer tool rack components.

Finally, I ended up removing the Dragon kit parts for the spare track holders. I used a couple of track links (thanks Shane MacKay!) and mounted them using the PE spare track holders from Voyager set. I found it odd that Dragon included styrene spare track racks but the additional detail of two spare track links was omitted.





Now, back to the turret!

Very nice work Jason. Despite it being a very average kit this is going to look swish when finished.

ps I'm a bit surprised you haven't got a few more comments on what is a very clean build ...

cheers
Brent

Thanks very much Brent! I'll keep working on the Swish factor!

Moving back to the turret I wanted to do some work on the searchlight. Reference images of the M103A2s in service showed the searchlight both mounted and not mounted.

I am opting for mounting the searchlight so I needed to figure out whether to use the kit searchlight or an aftermarket version.

The Dragon searchlight is under scale. How much I don't know but it is obvious. The Dragon searchlight is produced in multiple pieces and creates a spectrum of seams when assembled. There are small details absent and no option for a lens cover. There is a small length of vinyl tube provided that is too narrow in diameter in my option.

There are multiple alternatives such as from Def Models, Legend Productions, or sourcing it from a kit such as the AFV Club M60A1 kit. I had the Legend Production M48A3 mantlet and searchlight set on hand. The Legend searchlight may be a little overscaled but it has excellent details and a moulded on lens cover.

I used the brass rod provided in the legend set to create the supports and lifting handles. For further detailing I added what appears to be locking arms on the mounts on the rear of the searchlight adjustment mechanism. The final touch was to add four PE straps from the Voyager M103A1 detail set to secure the lens cover.

The searchlight, mantlet mounts, and cable won't be added until the barrel accordion dust cover is completed.

You can see the obvious size difference between the Dragon and Legend Production searchlight in the following images.

It looks like you are definitely extracting a gem from a rock of a kit Jason. This is such an interesting subject. Thanks for sharing your work.

Cheers

Todd

Thanks very much Todd! I learned well in the Strathconas to do more with less!

While working on turret details I jumped back to the hull. The tracks had to be eventually tackled.

The Dragon kit provides two single piece DS tracks. I've never used these tracks before and thought them to be unique. They are pliable, bendable, nicely moulded with details, and can be assembled with glue.

I have not used OOB tracks in many years. I noted on these tracks a small amount of flash. This was primarily on the inner tracks pads combined with slight sink marks.

Assembly of the tracks is no problem with some fine liquid cement of your choice. I used Tamiya Ultra-Thin. Getting the ends of the tracks together with the male and female parts was a bit of a challenge as the ends are fiddly.

Once the tracks were assembled and dried they popped on to the suspension without any issues.

What I did not like was the unnatural sit of the tracks on the return rollers and around the sprocket. With the DS tracks there is still that "rubbery" tension common to vinyl tracks and they just don't quite sit right.

So...off they came and they will be replaced by the Bronco T97E2 track set. The M103 tracks are not T97 tracks, they are the T107 tracks which are a bit different in dimensions. In 1/35 the T97E2 tracks will do just fine.

Images of the assembled tracks showing the outside and the visible attached points on the inside.

Here are images of the kit tracks mounted on the build. Note the issues over the return rollers and the drive sprockets.

If you can live with the issues identified with the kit tracks there is no reason you can't use them. I found positioning the attachment point over the idler wheel completely hid it.

The track pad, end connector, and centre guide details are actually quite nice.

Inevitably I had to come up with a solution to creating the accordion style barrel dust cover.

Dragon does not include the mantlet cover or dust cover in the kit.

Legend Productions released an aftermarket mantlet cover but the resin dust cover is designed for the kit barrel.

There are additional options for those handy with scratchbuilding. One possible solution was the corrugated portion of an extra large or jumbo "bendy" straw. These can be found fairly easy at discount or "dollar" stores.

I thought that this might be a great choice but due to the taper on the barrel as it reaches the mantlet the straw portion would not fit properly over the barrel. This would still be a great option if you had a barrel without a taper.

The jumbo straw corrugated portion was cut to the correct size but would not slip smoothly on to the tapered portion of the barrel. It was too tight of a fit.



A comparison between the straw portion and the Legend Production resin part. Note how much more the accordion portion is pronounced and slightly irregular on the resin part.



What other options are there?

Door number 1- You could create the dust cover from epoxy putty. This requires a steady hand and the ability to sculpt.

Door number 2- You could drill out the Legend Productions part and incorporate the taper. This also requires a steady hand and the RB barrel may still be too big to fit.

Door number 3- You could create the accordion look with multiple thin styrene disks over the distinct barrel taper.

I've chosen number 3. I'll let you know how it turns out in the next posts.

I started with .010" (0.25 mm) thick styrene sheets and used the 7/16 circle template.

I selected the 7/16 template after comparing the size to reference images and the Legend Productions resin part.



Next I traced circles on the styrene sheet using the 7/17 circle template.



The next steps will be creating and preparing the disks.

Door number 4 - Chuck the barrel in a lathe and remove the taper?

Good option, but I ain't got no lathe for that!

Not to beat a dead horse, but for others who may not have one either and need to work a barrel:

1) Chuck the muzzle end of the barrel in an electric drill. You may want to wrap cloth around it to protect it. Clamp drill in a vise, spin barrel and work with file.

2) Hold muzzle end of barrel with cloth (it gets hot!) and work with your vertical belt sander and Mk I eyeball.

3) Variation on option 2: Work it with bench grinder, and same eyeball. (I like to "paint" it with a Sharpie so I know I'm going evenly all the way around.)

Soooooooooo...getting back to the option I selected I used the following process.

1. Cut out the 7/16 disks. I used simple scissors and not a fancy diamond edged scribing tool or laser etching device.

2. Smooth the edges with fine sandpaper to ensure even roundness. Again, manual labour.

3. Landmark the centre of each disk with a small punch. Measure twice and cut once.

4. Drill a larger hole in the centre of each disk with a drill bit.

5. I next mounted a cone shaped cutter in a Dremel Tool and on low speed began to cut into the centre of the first disk where the hole was drilled. I alternated by flipping sides to keep the enlarging hole even and smooth. I held the disk in between my thumb and forefinger in order to keep the disk stable. As the centre hole gets bigger the disk becomes less stable.

6. The first disk has the largest hole in order to butt up against the mantlet cover. I test fitted each disk as I was enlarging the holes in order to make sure each one was just a touch smaller in diameter from the previous one in order to fit properly on the barrel taper yet leaving a small gap. The Mk.1 eyeball with fingers crossed were the preferred technique.

7. When sliding the disks onto the barrel taper I was able to gently push them on at the base with tweezers. I used NO glue at all during this process(say it is not true!) and each disk held firm on the barrel taper.

I am not done quite yet with the dust cover. There are other details I want to add to it in the next stage.

This was actually quite a simple technique using simple tools and not much time. The result thus far is very satisfying and looks appealing to me when compared to reference images.

This image shows a small part of the disk "assembly line" with some of the disks fitted.



These images show the disks in place on the barrel taper. More details will be added to finish off the dust cover.

The next step I took with the dust cover was to start to fill in the gaps between the disks to create the appearance of a single form.

I decided to try liquid Pro-Mask. It flows well, has a relatively long set up time, and is thin enough to apply multiple coats to build up the shape and fill gaps. I had considered plain old white glue but the Pro-Mask seemed OK.

I applied it with a brush and let it flow into the crevices. Turned the barrel while it sets prevents it from pooling at the bottom. I expect that I will need several more applications to get the look I want.









The forward most disk still needs a touch more detail before this stage is finished.

Jason, They is a great idea with the disks. It is coming along nicely. I have the kit in the stash and not sure how much surgery I want to do. You have turned a pretty poor kit into a stunner. It's Like one of those teen movies where the homely girl turns into a hottie. I can't wait to see her with a coat of paint.

Tom

Thanks very much Tom,

I'll see how else I can flesh out this kit as the build continues. At least the teen movie isn't "Carrie"!

To finish off the dust cover I added a small amount of Tamiya putty to the face of the front disk. In looking at reference images this appears to show the dust cover slightly bunched and wrinkled.






With the dust cover complete the bore evacuator and the muzzle counterweight were attached to the barrel.



There are plenty of reference images showing the M103A2 in service without the searchlight mounted. If this is your choice then stop here on the build. The Legend Productions mantlet depicts the searchlight mounts as they would be without the light mounted. All that would be needed are a bolts on the undersides of the two forward mounts and two bolts on the front and rear of the single rear mount.

I have chosen to mount the Legend Productions searchlight that I previously prepared. The next stage will be attaching the searchlight.

Jason .... you really got yourself into something "BIG" this time.
I'm impressed, very convincing !
Now don't screw up the paint job please

Cheers
Christopher

Thanks very much Christopher.

I am a big fan of the Cold War Heavy tanks. I have two others planned...the German KPz70 (OMG another Dragon Black Label kit!!!) and the new TBS Model British FV4005 Centurion conversion.

I mounted the detail enhanced Legend Productions searchlight. The only kit part I used was the mount extension for the rear attachment point. This part need to be cut down a touch in order for the searchlight and mantlet mount to match up.

My gun barrel has a slight elevation so I had to take care to make sure that the searchlight mirrored that angle.

Attaching the searchlight adds even more to the massive look of the M103A2. You can definitely see the similarities between the M103A2 and the M48 and M60 series with the searchlight attached.









A searchlight is just dead weight without a power cable and the next stage will deal with that detail.

The Dragon kit provides nothing for adding a searchlight cable if you chose to mount the kit searchlight.

The Legend Productions searchlight does provide vinyl tubing but I found it too thin.

I've had good success in the past with using solder to produce cables so I stuck with that technique. The solder can be bent and shaped into curves and loops easily and stays put where you want it. Some gentle pressure will assist it in forming. You have to keep in mind that it is a power cable and not rope so it won't simply flop down on every part of a surface.

In looking at previous options for barrels I just discovered another alternative.

Orange Hobby released a combo metal/resin barrel for the M103A1 kit. I do not know if it is accurate or simply uses the same dimensions as the Dragon kit parts. It does not appear to have a taper.

I believe the parts are as follows:

- metal barrel
- resin bore evacuator
- resin collar/mount
- metal muzzle
- metal spacer ring