THE NUT JOB!
I mentioned earlier that on all my vehicles I make a point of adding small nut & bolt castings to represent the various drain plugs located around the truck underbody. This photo will give you an idea what I am talking about.
Every differential has two plugs; a drain plug on the bottom and a fluid level check plug about 3/4 of the way up the side. Remove the check plug, if the gear oil runs out there was too much in the differential. If no gear oil runs out then you stick your pinky in the check hole, if you come out with oil on your finger the level was just right, and if you cannot feel any oil at all then the differential has been leaking and you need to add more oil before the unit runs dry.
Given current plastic molding technology almost all model differentials will have one but not both plugs so at least one needs be added as the arrows indicate.
In the case of the HobbyBoss White truck because of the way the front axle is set on the sprue the check plug is there but the drain plug is not. On the rear differential it is the reverse.
MOVING ON . . .
The engine oil pan, the transmission oil pan and the bottom of the transfer case should all have oil drain plugs. I suggest to add drain plugs as necessary.
Not sure the battery box and tool box would have had drain plugs but it is reasonable to think they would have. As an example; every WWII Jeep has two drain plugs one on each side of the front floorboard to drain rainwater that might accumulate. If this White truck were to run through deep water or if one of the batteries cracked and started leaking, it might be handy to have a way to drain the fluids out of these boxes!
These nut n' bolt castings come in an assortment of sizes and are packaged roughly 200 to a pack for $2-3 plus shipping.
F.Y.I. - I use 2 inch, O scale, "Nut, Bolt and Washer" plastic castings from Tichy Train Group for adding these details. Tichy set # 8142. Drill a small hole in the model, add a touch of model glue and slide the stem of the bolt casting into the hole.
