Hosted by Darren Baker
Building A 1/16th. Panzer IV H with Zimmerit
Pat1066
Alberta, Canada
Joined: December 04, 2015
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2015 - 05:46 AM UTC
I too think the molding process used for the type J side skirts is great. I was intrigued by it when I heard about it but couldn't find any good photos of them online at the time. Your photo should be appreciated by many. Having them in my hands now my only concern as such will be deciding how to cleanly separate the skirts from the metal "sprue" (for lack of a better term) without nicking or otherwise marring the edge of the mesh. I have a while to think that over, and maybe someone will have some pointers by then.
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2015 - 05:36 PM UTC
Quoted Text
just wondering what unit and or theater of operations you plan to do, or is it still up in the air
William
I wasn't planning on doing any certain unit just some where in Europe / Eastern Front.
almost all of my builds are generic vehicles that may or could have been.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 - 07:52 PM UTC
The Track is assembled.
I built the Track in 9 sections of 10 pieces & 1 section of 9 for a total of 99 shoes in each run.
The instructions have very important mistake .
They would have you install the Track Pins with the head of the pin on the outside.
The Track Pin Head goes on the inside towards the hull .
Now to paint and detail them.
Donald
I built the Track in 9 sections of 10 pieces & 1 section of 9 for a total of 99 shoes in each run.
The instructions have very important mistake .
They would have you install the Track Pins with the head of the pin on the outside.
The Track Pin Head goes on the inside towards the hull .
Now to paint and detail them.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 - 04:56 PM UTC
The Tracks are installed.
(Note) The instructions call for 99 links, this puts the Idler Wheel at the full rearward position with the tracks in a no sag position.
You can always leave a link or two out. I used the 99 link set.
I think I'll install the Fenders next.
Donald
(Note) The instructions call for 99 links, this puts the Idler Wheel at the full rearward position with the tracks in a no sag position.
You can always leave a link or two out. I used the 99 link set.
I think I'll install the Fenders next.
Donald
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 - 06:16 PM UTC
My phone actually loaded these pictures this time without crashing. Beautiful work sir!
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Thursday, December 10, 2015 - 10:25 PM UTC
Quoted Text
My phone actually loaded these pictures this time without crashing. Beautiful work sir!
I'm glad that you like them.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Thursday, December 10, 2015 - 10:32 PM UTC
When installing the Fenders it is easier if you hook the tab on the inner rear end of the Fender on the rear plate as shown, then line up the tabs on the Fenders with the notches in the lower hull & glue.
( One thing I learned, DON'T INSTALL THE AMMO BINS UNTIL THE FENDERS ARE INSTALLED)
I installed the small muffler first.
Then the large one.
Then the Fender ends.
And finally the small springs.
A little Super Glue on their ends will help keep them from flying off & getting lost.
Donald
( One thing I learned, DON'T INSTALL THE AMMO BINS UNTIL THE FENDERS ARE INSTALLED)
I installed the small muffler first.
Then the large one.
Then the Fender ends.
And finally the small springs.
A little Super Glue on their ends will help keep them from flying off & getting lost.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2015 - 08:57 PM UTC
To continue on.
The front fender.
I drilled out the mounting holes in both the Turret Ring and the Hull top.
I think that it looks a lot better this way.
The front fender.
I drilled out the mounting holes in both the Turret Ring and the Hull top.
I think that it looks a lot better this way.
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2015 - 09:07 PM UTC
I started on the Radio Rack, That dam Photo Etch is going to drive me krazy yet. I just couldn't get it to go together, too many itty bitty parts.
I finaly just scratch built one out of some strip stock. Angle stock would have been better but I didn't have any.
It didn't come out really great but it's good enough. You'r not going to see much of it anyway.
The Radios are just test fitted, Don't ask me if they are the correct ones, this is what came in the kit.
I almost lost my computer this morning, it wouldn't load and start up.
I can't use the camera card in my better computer, so if this one goes this all ends.
Donald
I finaly just scratch built one out of some strip stock. Angle stock would have been better but I didn't have any.
It didn't come out really great but it's good enough. You'r not going to see much of it anyway.
The Radios are just test fitted, Don't ask me if they are the correct ones, this is what came in the kit.
I almost lost my computer this morning, it wouldn't load and start up.
I can't use the camera card in my better computer, so if this one goes this all ends.
Donald
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 14, 2015 - 05:10 AM UTC
Nice work.Depending on the card/computer OS,you can get an aftermarket card reader, and plug into a USB port.I found my XP unit couldn't read SD cards, but with a seperate reader, no problem.
Do you know of an American distributor of the Zimm? My LHS can't get it through his usual suppliers...
Do you know of an American distributor of the Zimm? My LHS can't get it through his usual suppliers...
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Monday, December 14, 2015 - 04:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice work.Depending on the card/computer OS,you can get an aftermarket card reader, and plug into a USB port.I found my XP unit couldn't read SD cards, but with a seperate reader, no problem.
Do you know of an American distributor of the Zimm? My LHS can't get it through his usual suppliers...
Hi Carl,
I ordered the zimmerit right from their web site it was cheaper and easier than trying to go the local hobby shop route. Thet take pay pal.
If you and anyone else is interested their web address is
www.atakmodel.istore.pl
Donald
Yes the link above will take you there.
Donald
Pyro63
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 06, 2015
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Posted: Monday, December 14, 2015 - 07:46 PM UTC
Just wandering thru and trying to absorb as much info as I can on this site and as your aware there's lots!! I don't comment much either but the model is impressive and so are your skills There's over 8000 views on this thread and I'm sure you don't want to hear from all of us You keep modelling and we'll keep reading
Regards
Regards
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 02:09 AM UTC
Correct, still it's nice to hear from someone once in a while.
If there are any questions I'll be glad to help if I can, like above on where to get the zimmerit.
Donald
If there are any questions I'll be glad to help if I can, like above on where to get the zimmerit.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 02:10 AM UTC
The Radios are finished and installed in their racks.
Now to install the racks to the inside top of the hull, then if there isn't anything else close up the hull.
Donald
Now to install the racks to the inside top of the hull, then if there isn't anything else close up the hull.
Donald
Pyro63
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 06, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 04:33 AM UTC
I'll cheerfully check this thread and comment all the time Don just so you know someone's paying attention but your skills are so far above mine and knowledge and techniques far and above me that I don't know what to say. Your among many on this site that are skillful and I just look and read in awe
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 04:25 PM UTC
Installed the Radio Rack.
I finished the front Mg. There isn't any ammo bags supplied with the kit. This would be a useful item for the after market companies.
That's all for today.
Donald
I finished the front Mg. There isn't any ammo bags supplied with the kit. This would be a useful item for the after market companies.
That's all for today.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 06:22 PM UTC
Today I installed the Hull top.
Man what a job, If I was to build the H version again I think that I would leave the Zimmerit for until the Hull top and bottom were joined.
I started at the rear gluing and clamping a small section at a time.
This is the final clamping.
The worse gaps were at the front end, I don't think that it was the kits fault , just that I screwed up the front glacis plate installation .
Enough clamping and it came out ok.
Man what a job, If I was to build the H version again I think that I would leave the Zimmerit for until the Hull top and bottom were joined.
I started at the rear gluing and clamping a small section at a time.
This is the final clamping.
The worse gaps were at the front end, I don't think that it was the kits fault , just that I screwed up the front glacis plate installation .
Enough clamping and it came out ok.
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 06:30 PM UTC
Here are some views of what can be seen in the engine compartment.
The left side, just the radiator is visible.
The right side.
Doing the Engine compartment was a complete waste of time.
Not much can be seen, I think that I'll just glue the engine hatches closed.
Donald
The left side, just the radiator is visible.
The right side.
Doing the Engine compartment was a complete waste of time.
Not much can be seen, I think that I'll just glue the engine hatches closed.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Friday, December 18, 2015 - 08:17 PM UTC
I started the Turret.
This is why I did the lower hull first, to use it as a jig to make sure the turret basket floor would clear the hull floor plates.
As it is I had to trim the turret basket floor plate edge all around
to get it to rotate freely.
The floor plate isn't glued to the posts from the turret bottom yet.
I replaced the handle shown , it was just a little stub , this looks better.
It's very slow going right now, just tired all the time, it's no fun getting old.
Donald
This is why I did the lower hull first, to use it as a jig to make sure the turret basket floor would clear the hull floor plates.
As it is I had to trim the turret basket floor plate edge all around
to get it to rotate freely.
The floor plate isn't glued to the posts from the turret bottom yet.
I replaced the handle shown , it was just a little stub , this looks better.
It's very slow going right now, just tired all the time, it's no fun getting old.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 06:33 AM UTC
Here is how I made the Turret Side Hatches Workable.
The pistol ports were made operable just used a smaller size rod.
That's it for now.
Donald
The pistol ports were made operable just used a smaller size rod.
That's it for now.
Donald
knewton
New Zealand
Joined: June 19, 2013
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Joined: June 19, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 08:09 AM UTC
thank you, Donald, the whole thing is an inspiration!
I've mine under the work bench, trying to finish off some shelf queens so I may start this one sooner rather than later.
all the best, season's greetings
Kylie
I've mine under the work bench, trying to finish off some shelf queens so I may start this one sooner rather than later.
all the best, season's greetings
Kylie
OldWarloke
United States
Joined: October 14, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, December 20, 2015 - 02:33 AM UTC
I've been adding detail to the turret inside and the side hatches.
Of special note the instructions have the hold open stops for the forward side hatches reversed. Part G40 goes on the left side not the right, & Part G41 goes on the right side not the left as in the instructions.
I think I'll work on the Gun next.
Donald
Of special note the instructions have the hold open stops for the forward side hatches reversed. Part G40 goes on the left side not the right, & Part G41 goes on the right side not the left as in the instructions.
I think I'll work on the Gun next.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Monday, December 21, 2015 - 08:36 PM UTC
I have started the Gun.
I am using the metal gun barrel that comes in the kit.
A special note= Both the Plastic & Metal Gun barrels are visible inside the breach.
The Breach Block will have to be sanded on all sides except the front to get it to fit, this includes the grooves on both sides.
I have painted the Breach Black this is the color that I have found on most non museum pics. of it. It could be a dark Grey, but I think this looks right.
Now back to work.
Donald
I am using the metal gun barrel that comes in the kit.
A special note= Both the Plastic & Metal Gun barrels are visible inside the breach.
The Breach Block will have to be sanded on all sides except the front to get it to fit, this includes the grooves on both sides.
I have painted the Breach Black this is the color that I have found on most non museum pics. of it. It could be a dark Grey, but I think this looks right.
Now back to work.
Donald
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 - 07:39 PM UTC
continuing
Masked off the breach for the metalizer.
Sprayed the Chrome Metalizer
The finished results .
Masked off the breach for the metalizer.
Sprayed the Chrome Metalizer
The finished results .
OldWarloke
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 - 07:45 PM UTC
Now for a few other things.
You should cut the tab off the back of F32 , and glue F32 as shown.
I wired the Fuse/Circuit Breaker Box.
The wires don't really go anywhere but I think it looks good.
Donald
You should cut the tab off the back of F32 , and glue F32 as shown.
I wired the Fuse/Circuit Breaker Box.
The wires don't really go anywhere but I think it looks good.
Donald