Hi All,
Now the Challenger is finished I've decided to continue with a build a started a while ago, I know the kit has been superseded by the new AFV M60s but as I spent a fortune on AM
I wanted to get this one done.
This was as far as I got with the build.
Made a start removing some of the kit parts that are to be replaced with the resin items, this has been made more time consuming as the plastic of the kit has gone very brittle.
The Legends resin commanders scopes.
More later folks
Dan
Hosted by Darren Baker
Tamiya M60A3
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 04:11 PM UTC
MissAnna
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 04:38 PM UTC
This is looking great so far. I'm planning something similar, my Mom bought me one of these old girls as a gift, and I've splurged on aftermarket for her as well.
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 04:46 PM UTC
MissAnna
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 05:04 PM UTC
Nice! I think you'll do well, right tool for the job and all that.
M4A1Sherman
New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 05:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice! I think you'll do well, right tool for the job and all that.
Now THAT's using your skills as a modeller to get the most out of an old kit by using various After-market upgrades!!! This is looking very much like my own style of model-building. Resin and PE Updates and a good bit of "finagling" with the kit itself!
BTW- Don't mean to go "off-track"-
You wouldn't believe the results you can get from the good ol' basic Single Action PAASCHE H-1 and BADGER 200-series airbrushes. Dependable, simple, and they cost a FRACTION of what the more expensive "better" airbrushes cost. Spray patterns are just as good- You just need to use a little bit of ingenuity (a few minutes of adjusting the paint tips) to get the air/paint adjustments on the airbrush just right, and also by varying the air pressure on your compressor. Varying the paint-to-thinner ratio can also give you some spectacular results. Touch-ups are a snap with my BADGER 200G Gravity-feed airbrush, which I've equipped with an "Ultra-Fine" Needle...
I've used these airbrushes since I was 14, and I'll be 63 in January, so I think that speaks well of how GOOD those old airbrushes really are...
Yes, I've tried Dual Action IWATAs, and couldn't tell the difference. It's not just the airbrush; it's the level of experience that the modeller has in getting the most out of their airbrush and other tools... Wound up selling my two IWATAs to a buddy of mine because he just HAD to HAVE THEM!!!
Having blathered on about airbrushes, I just want to say in conclusion that you're old TAMIYA M60A3 is LOOKIN' GOOD!!! I'll be following your efforts with great interest!!!
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 27, 2007
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 05:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextNice! I think you'll do well, right tool for the job and all that.
You wouldn't believe the results you can get from the good ol' basic Single Action PAASCHE H-1 and BADGER 200-series airbrushes. Dependable, simple, and they cost a FRACTION of what the more expensive "better" airbrushes cost. Spray patterns are just as good- You just need to use a little bit of ingenuity (a few minutes of adjusting the paint tips) to get the air/paint adjustments on the airbrush just right, and also by varying the air pressure on your compressor. Varying the paint-to-thinner ratio can also give you some spectacular results. Touch-ups are a snap with my BADGER 200G Gravity-feed airbrush, which I've equipped with an "Ultra-Fine" Needle...
I've used these airbrushes since I was 14, and I'll be 63 in January, so I think that speaks well of how GOOD those old airbrushes really are...
PS- Yes, I've tried Dual Action IWATAs, and couldn't tell the difference. It's not just the airbrush; it's the level of experience that the modeller has in getting the most out of their airbrush and other tools...
Thanks Dennis,
Been down the badger route myself, I own a 150 with all three needles and heads, I also own a 200 which I bought in 1987 which I still own, good for their day and as a young modeller at the time are forgiving enough to learn on.
Personally and it is preference to the individual, I like Iwata. I bought my first back in 2009 (TR1) and it knocks the socks off my Badgers in my opinion.
My Badger 150 updated still sits in the brush holder as a stand by brush but it will never match the performance of my trusty TR1. The last time it was used was 4 years ago as I bent the needle on the TR-1. I also have a Paasche H-1 which is never used now and sits in the back on the drawer.
It's each to their own fella.
Dan
Tankrider
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 07:45 PM UTC
Dan,
Nice collection of bits for the M60A3. I do have to point out that the antenna matching unit is not the correct one for the late 70's-early 80's. Armscorp from Australia has an outstanding set of resin matching units that will work. I prefer the AFV Club plastic T-142 tracks for the M60 vice the Fruili ones as I dont like the fixed end connectors, but that is me. If this build ends up like the Chally 1 build, this should be entertaining. There are plenty former M60 tankers on Armorama, so shout out if you have any questions.
John
Nice collection of bits for the M60A3. I do have to point out that the antenna matching unit is not the correct one for the late 70's-early 80's. Armscorp from Australia has an outstanding set of resin matching units that will work. I prefer the AFV Club plastic T-142 tracks for the M60 vice the Fruili ones as I dont like the fixed end connectors, but that is me. If this build ends up like the Chally 1 build, this should be entertaining. There are plenty former M60 tankers on Armorama, so shout out if you have any questions.
John
Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 07:49 PM UTC
Your M60A3 is looking good so far and looks like you have a nice stash of treasures to dress her up. I am not sure about the Adlers Nest antenna. That is a SINCGARS style antenna and I am not sure if any M60s were upgraded with SINCGARS – maybe holdover Army Reserve and National Guard units but not 100% sure. My limited stash of references on the M60 does not have this style antenna. The older antenna base, the MX-6707 looks slightly different and the antenna itself is very different. Adlers Nest produces this antenna as well - I have piles of both in the stash for my AAV builds. I checked HLJ and they have a limited stock of the MX-6707 style antenna on hand. Product ADNANM-35037
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.adlersnest.com/&prev=searchhttps://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.adlersnest.com/&prev=search
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.adlersnest.com/&prev=searchhttps://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.adlersnest.com/&prev=search
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 08:11 PM UTC
Thanks you chaps for the pointers.
I was a bit worried about the antenna base tbh and not 100%
sure if it was correct for the era, it will go towards my
M1 build at a later date that's for sure, I have some RBM
turned brass bases somewhere which I think might be correct.
Cheers for the info guys and if I'm wandering off with the build please feel free to bring back into line.
Dan
I was a bit worried about the antenna base tbh and not 100%
sure if it was correct for the era, it will go towards my
M1 build at a later date that's for sure, I have some RBM
turned brass bases somewhere which I think might be correct.
Cheers for the info guys and if I'm wandering off with the build please feel free to bring back into line.
Dan
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 08:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
That is a SINCGARS style antenna...
It is not really a SINCGARS matching unit, but a more current matching unit. The older-style was also used with SINCGARS and Series-12/46 radios.
The correct base is the thicker AS-3900 VRC matching unit:
rfbaer
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
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Posted: Monday, November 16, 2015 - 08:53 PM UTC
I really like the old Tamiya M60 kits, and am in the same boat: several of the kits in the stash and lots of AM stuff. I could say that that's one reason why I haven't ponied up and bought one of the AFV Club kits, maybe.
M4A1Sherman
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
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Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2015 - 06:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextNice! I think you'll do well, right tool for the job and all that.
You wouldn't believe the results you can get from the good ol' basic Single Action PAASCHE H-1 and BADGER 200-series airbrushes. Dependable, simple, and they cost a FRACTION of what the more expensive "better" airbrushes cost. Spray patterns are just as good- You just need to use a little bit of ingenuity (a few minutes of adjusting the paint tips) to get the air/paint adjustments on the airbrush just right, and also by varying the air pressure on your compressor. Varying the paint-to-thinner ratio can also give you some spectacular results. Touch-ups are a snap with my BADGER 200G Gravity-feed airbrush, which I've equipped with an "Ultra-Fine" Needle...
I've used these airbrushes since I was 14, and I'll be 63 in January, so I think that speaks well of how GOOD those old airbrushes really are...
PS- Yes, I've tried Dual Action IWATAs, and couldn't tell the difference. It's not just the airbrush; it's the level of experience that the modeller has in getting the most out of their airbrush and other tools...
Thanks Dennis,
Been down the badger route myself, I own a 150 with all three needles and heads, I also own a 200 which I bought in 1987 which I still own, good for their day and as a young modeller at the time are forgiving enough to learn on.
Personally and it is preference to the individual, I like Iwata. I bought my first back in 2009 (TR1) and it knocks the socks off my Badgers in my opinion.
My Badger 150 updated still sits in the brush holder as a stand by brush but it will never match the performance of my trusty TR1. The last time it was used was 4 years ago as I bent the needle on the TR-1. I also have a Paasche H-1 which is never used now and sits in the back on the drawer.
It's each to their own fella.
Dan
Thanks for your input, Dan! I'm a firm believer in the "Whatever works for you" philosophy. In my case, I have to stress that with experimentation and experience, I've reached my own personal Nirvana using my old PAASCHE and BADGER single-action airbrushes... No disparagement was meant against the use of dual-action airbrushes, just praise for the old "tried and true"...
I much prefer to create special effects with my airbrushes and weathering powders, rather than resorting to heavy overall washes and filters. I like to pre and post-shade, also varying degrees of modulation. I DO favor pin-washes in the required places. A gloss coat for decals and/or dry transfers, a dead flat sealer coat, and then the weathering powders come next. Another sealer coat, (flat or semi-gloss, in certain places, depending on the vehicle) and some selective dry-brushing to bring out a few raised details. Then the final sealer coat...
There again, that's just my own process...
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 27, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 - 02:33 PM UTC
Thank you Dennis,
Progress is a bit slow as I assembled a lot of the Tamiya
kit before hand, quite a lot of the parts needed to be removed to make way for the resin items and the Legend parts are time consuming to remove and clean up.
A few pictures of the progress so far.
The plastic on the kit has turned really brittle which makes for more fun removing parts, they seam to shatter taking a large area with them so I'm rebuilding a few areas.
Regards
Dan
Progress is a bit slow as I assembled a lot of the Tamiya
kit before hand, quite a lot of the parts needed to be removed to make way for the resin items and the Legend parts are time consuming to remove and clean up.
A few pictures of the progress so far.
The plastic on the kit has turned really brittle which makes for more fun removing parts, they seam to shatter taking a large area with them so I'm rebuilding a few areas.
Regards
Dan
MissAnna
Colorado, United States
Joined: November 11, 2015
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Joined: November 11, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 - 05:45 PM UTC
Nice progress Dan. I'll have to check my kit, see if it's getting more brittle.
kowalski
Baleares, Spain / España
Joined: July 27, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 - 07:45 PM UTC
Hi Dan.
I just stumbled upon this build and after seeing what you did with the Chieftain and the Challenger I'm signing up for this one. I know I'm going to enjoy it.
Keep us updated
I just stumbled upon this build and after seeing what you did with the Chieftain and the Challenger I'm signing up for this one. I know I'm going to enjoy it.
Keep us updated
rfbaer
Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 - 10:12 PM UTC
I'm gettin' the M60 Jones on.....
I did a Tamiya Merk1 earlier this year, original boxing, and it was really brittle; surprised me.
I did a Tamiya Merk1 earlier this year, original boxing, and it was really brittle; surprised me.
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 04:15 PM UTC
Dannyd
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 06:52 PM UTC
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 07:06 PM UTC
Looking really nice. I like what you have done w/the foundry marks and numbers/letters as well. Great details. You might want to replace the tow pintle though. It is way undersized and not very accurate looking.
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 09:25 PM UTC
mmarchioli
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 12:28 AM UTC
Fantastic work! I have assembled almost all the same AM for a Tamiya M60A1 USMC that my wife bought me a few years back. Will be watching intently.
Mike
Mike
Dannyd
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 05:18 PM UTC
skyshark
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 06:33 PM UTC
Sorry but can't see all the am parts you used. Could you put a list of the am parts on here. Thanks
Dannyd
England - North West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:50 PM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 10:50 PM UTC
Question: Did the engine deck change from welded to cast at some point (or vice versa)? I'm no M60 expert, but I thought the cover over the engine was welded from rolled and formed plate as opposed to being a one-piece casting.
Paul
Paul