Hi all, Hope everyone had a good Christmas and New Year.

Well For Christmas I got a few new models.

This one is Dragons M3A1 Halftrack with Verlindens Command conversion set.



So its a new Dragon kit, so the quality is spot on. Lots and lots of parts and easy instructions. The verlinden kit for those who have never used it will take a lot of prep work, but it's all fun and games.

Anyway, first page of instructions are of the engine and wheel assembly. This is them painted with Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab and detailed nuts and bolts etc.









Going to go through building the model like this. get it all done, painted and weathered before I get the sticky stuff out.

Stay tuned for more.

Cheers

Cool.
I've always wanted to see this conversion. I hope it'll fit, since it is originally intended for Tamiya's M3A1.

I've been considering this kit so I'm excited to see your progress and thoughts!!

Si: having built 4 of the DML half tracks already, I think you'll run into some building problems by painting/weathering beforehand. Sure, I pre-painted some areas that would be hard to hit with a brush or airbrush after assembly -- but you have lots of paint you're going to need to scrape away -- and that's from the one picture you've posted of the suspension parts. One thing to note: there is no wiggle room for the tracks' drive sprocket onto its hub. You're going to have to strip the paint to simply slip the sprocket onto the hub. Good luck to you

Hi Roy, Yeah I did a test fit a couple of days ago and it stripped the paint off, I can see exactly where you are coming from, this might become a pain in the backside. And the paints not ever that thick. Just two thin paint layers, but ill make it work.

Cheers though

Hi all, hope everyone is keeping good.

Well a little more progress on the half track. Definitely decided not to add the command element to it so if anyone knows how to amend a title could you let me know.

Anyway's back to the half track itself.

I added some more bits to the chassis today and also assembled the engine.





Now I have never given it a proper go so but today I tried my hand at the Humbrol Pigment powders. So as you can see in the pics above I painted part of the top part of the engine (not quite sure what it is) but used a Tamiya Metallic Brown then some Vallejo Satin Varnish to matt it then added the Powder using some more Satin Varnish. And this is the out come



And the same on the exhaust but with a grey undercoat first.



The loose pigments have now fell off I just don't have a picture but it looks good.

More to follow so stay tuned

Hi all. Well a little bit further down the build. Started using some Humbrol Weathering pigments to make the tyres looks dirty and I'm glad to say, following the Humbrol Youtube guide on how to use them I got them looking a little bit dirty and used. Pics dont do them justice but I think you can make them out.

So firstly the base wheels them selves. Basic Olive Drab base coat with a light green highlight coat and a dark black grey coat for the tyre itself.



From there I went and applied a thick coat of the Dark Earth pigments mixed with Humbrol Thinners and water the tyre tread and let it dry.



After that I got a damp cotton bud and rubbed off the excess so the brown just remained in the tread. I also did the same process to the rim of the wheel and tyre where some mud would build uo.



And finally I applied a light wash to the inner part of the wheel as it looked to clean compared to the tyre. Sorry the picture does not do it justice.



More to follow.

OH AND A QUESTION FOR THOSE OUT THERE......WHAT ARE THE TRACK MADE OF. IS IT METAL WITH RUBBER PADS ON IT OR STRAIGHT METAL??

US halftracks have tracks that are made of rubber with steel reinforcing inside. Paint the tracks just like the tires.

Why did you decide to drop the command conversion?
Doesn't it fit or is the difference in quality to big? Or just a change of plans?

David your a superstar thank you very much.

Ron, since you pointed out my massive over sight I've been thinking over and over about it and have decided to ditch it to either by a tamiya kit or sell it. Going to look for some storage kit for it instead me thinks.

Evening everyone. Well after a two day rearrange of the spare bedroom and my man cave room I managed to get a full afternoon of modelling the half track done today. And apart from a couple of tiny little parts to add the chassis is now built with just a tiny bit of weathering to do to it.

So firstly after going off Davids insight into the tracks I gave them the grey/black colouring with a silver dry brush on the inside running area. From there I used the Humbrol weathering powders to give them a slightly dirty look.



Using a damp cotton bud I wiped the access from the raised parts of the track. Picture doesn't do it justice but it does look subtly dirty now.



After that all dried I fitted the Bogi wheels in it.



Next was the front suspension. Simple Olive Drab paint scheme followed by some highlight, weathering powder and dry brushing and thats them all done.



Little bits and bobs added to the front of the chassis.









Moving down the chassis I then went on to add the rear wheel assembly.







Once that had all dried and the glue marks had been touched up the track was added.





Front wheels blue tacked on.





Whilst that was all drying I moved to the drivers cab. The underneath got a coat of dark green and the interior got the good old olive drab followed by a gloss coat ready for weathering tomorrow.



Thats all for today's instalment, hope everyone's enjoying the build.

And if anyone knows a good feed that shows how to heavy weather an interior can they point me in the right direction please

Cheers

Looks like a great conversion. I'll be watching with interest.
How did the track go together? Fit ok? I have the M21 Mortar Carrier and I've been scratching my head as to how precisely it all fits.

Stephan, there's nothing difficult about the DML half track track halves. You simply glue each half together. The sprocket and idler wheel fit right in. It's ingenious and well engineered

Hi Stephen, as Roy said they go together really well. I didn't have to glue or anything, just the sheer tight fit keeps them locked in place.

Now stay tuned for today's antics.....the drivers cab.

Any advise or criticism is welcome

nice progress... tempted by this kit (or similar) so enjoying watching how it builds

Hi Rob. I'd say do it. Very pleasurable kit to do indeed. But thanks for the support cheers

Si: When you're assembling the driver's compartment -- make sure you don't glue the engine compartment side walls to the driver's compartment tub as per the DML directions.

You want to glue the engine compartment side walls and horizontal bonnet together first. Let them dry and then attach it to the driver's compartment tub/firewall. If you follow the DML directions, the back edge of the sidewalls once attached to the tub will be too narrow to fit the bonnet.

Cheers for the heads up Roy. So basically if I put the side and bonnet together first then attach it to the cab it should be ok?

Hi everyone. Little update from today so far. Drivers cab assembled with all the gear sticks and seats etc and front body glued together.

As I have said already in this forum I am trying my hand at weathering with pigments. So I moved into the drivers compartment to give that a little dirt a wear and tare. So to start with I used some Humbrol sand pigments as a base layer.



Looks quite bright but it does die down.

Same again went over with the dark earth pigments.



From there it was a case of dry brushing with some greys to the high parts of the steel floor.



And then to finish it of I gave it another round of sand, dark earth and rust pigments then a satin coat over the top to lock it all in.



And after the Satin coat.



Next the seats. I am going to have the driver sat in this one so I used the recessed seat to accommodate him. Just a simple beige seat with a light buff dry brush to do the seats.



And finally the instrument panel.

Start.



Finish.



I google searched the interior and went off what I found. Shame I have bloody shaky hands, doesn't help when using a hairy stick.

Anyways, thanks for watching.

Cheers. It always struck me as a bit weird the way they did it and I've always had concerns about a positive fit of each half and how they fit over the road wheels. But if everyone has had success with them then I'll give it a bash.

Honestly Stephen it's the easiest set of tracks I've put on a vehicle so get on and get it done lol

Stephan: trust Si and me. I've built four DML US Halftracks -- all appearing in published articles. I have two more on the workbench. The tracks are one of the least areas of concern. Like I said, the track suspension is extremely well designed and engineered. This shouldn't give you the slightest worry. Roy

Looking pretty good. Your engine colors are way off though. The part sticking off the top that you have done in metallic rust is actually the air cleaner and intake hose to the carburetor. The other cylinder on the front side that you also did a metallic rust color is the oil filter




Neither should be rusty. Both should be either black (on a fresh from the factory grey engine) or OD green like the rest of the engine on one that was rebuilt/repainted by the Army.

Freshly restored engine to White factory standards/paint.

Hi Gino. This is why this website is brilliant, advice at every turn. I will hit the paint tomorrow and give it a good going over using your diagrams. Cheers Gino!

I think you misunderstood a bit. The tracks were made of loops of steel cable with metal crossbars attached. This assembly was then placed in a mold, and synthetic rubber was injected and vulcanized over the cables and plates. There is no exposed metal anywhere, unless the track has been torn up badly. The suspension had to be compressed with turnbuckles in order to fit the tracks, as they were seamless.