I have Dragon's M4A1 Op. Cobra. I plan on building it as part of the 2nd Armored Division, pushing south through the bocage. Other than a cullin and stowage, are there any other upgrades I should consider?

The hull on my kit appears to be a good cast. I had already planned on using the Tasca vvss suspension, with T48 tracks(sourced M&M Models), which means I will be using the straight arms. I will be using the LionMarc skids(sourced Soga). Thanks for the heads up about the exhaust. However, I do not believe it will be prominent enough to warrant replacement. On that note, I can not warrant replacing the upper hull for a few degrees. It would be just as easy to sand and putty it to the correct angle. I wasn't aware of there being any problem, with the kit's barrel. As I stated, I will be using Legend's stowage. I will be replacing the 50cal. There are a few other small bits I will be replacing. While the sky is the limit, I am not aiming to touch it. I also have Hunnicut's book in my sights.

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The hull on my kit appears to be a good cast. I had already planned on using the Tasca vvss suspension, with T48 tracks(sourced M&M Models), which means I will be using the straight arms. I will be using the LionMarc skids(sourced Soga). Thanks for the heads up about the exhaust. However, I do not believe it will be prominent enough to warrant replacement. On that note, I can not warrant replacing the upper hull for a few degrees. It would be just as easy to sand and putty it to the correct angle. I wasn't aware of there being any problem, with the kit's barrel. As I stated, I will be using Legend's stowage. I will be replacing the 50cal. There are a few other small bits I will be replacing. While the sky is the limit, I am not aiming to touch it. I also have Hunnicut's book in my sights.

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Maybe I didn't express myself properly as regards to the ITALERI Upper Hull Sponsons versus the DRAGON Hull Sponsons- the ITALERI Upper Hull's shape is not as good as DRAGON's; I was just making a comparison between the two kits, as DRAGON did tweak their kit a bit. The rest of my comments are mainly observations on what could be done to improve an already decent kit. I took your request for additional info on the "COBRA" M4A1 to mean that you may have needed some pointers that might have come in handy for you, but I see now that you have matters pretty well in hand.

Re: the DRAGON kit's Main Gun Barrel- I don't remember if DRAGON included a metal Barrel, and if so, is it rifled? I know that the aftermarket manufacturers provide the rifling in theirs. I have three or four un-built DRAGON "COBRA" -A1s on my shelves, but I'm just too darned lazy to go check at the moment.

Anyway, good luck with your build!

Tasca makes an EXTREMELY good .50 cal. - 2 per kit. The best I've seen in injected styrene, and much cheaper than resin kits. That and Edouard PE mount and ammo box, but the Tasca mount is also very good.

Roy: Thank you for the links. I was unable to find photos of the Sherman 76, with the early style vvss suspension.

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The hull on my kit appears to be a good cast. I had already planned on using the Tasca vvss suspension, with T48 tracks(sourced M&M Models), which means I will be using the straight arms. I will be using the LionMarc skids(sourced Soga). Thanks for the heads up about the exhaust. However, I do not believe it will be prominent enough to warrant replacement. On that note, I can not warrant replacing the upper hull for a few degrees. It would be just as easy to sand and putty it to the correct angle. I wasn't aware of there being any problem, with the kit's barrel. As I stated, I will be using Legend's stowage. I will be replacing the 50cal. There are a few other small bits I will be replacing. While the sky is the limit, I am not aiming to touch it. I also have Hunnicut's book in my sights.

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Maybe I didn't express myself properly as regards to the ITALERI Upper Hull Sponsons versus the DRAGON Hull Sponsons- the ITALERI Upper Hull's shape is not as good as DRAGON's; I was just making a comparison between the two kits, as DRAGON did tweak their kit a bit. The rest of my comments are mainly observations on what could be done to improve an already decent kit. I took your request for additional info on the "COBRA" M4A1 to mean that you may have needed some pointers that might have come in handy for you, but I see now that you have matters pretty well in hand.

Re: the DRAGON kit's Main Gun Barrel- I don't remember if DRAGON included a metal Barrel, and if so, is it rifled? I know that the aftermarket manufacturers provide the rifling in theirs. I have three or four un-built DRAGON "COBRA" -A1s on my shelves, but I'm just too darned lazy to go check at the moment.

Anyway, good luck with your build!

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I apologize for being a bit short. I have lost most of the feeling, in my right hand and am a little upset over it. You drew my attention to a few details that could be replaced or modified. The reason it seems as though I had everything in hand, is that I went through TMD and Formations with a free hand. Some details I have decided to set aside, in lieu of those you brought up. I am very grateful for your input. I'm still somewhat new to olive drab. I promised myself I would build another Sherman, after placing one at regionals. Prior to that, I was a panzer nut. This project will allow me to tap my two, main genres. Ah! I was confused on the hulls. I see your point, on the barrel. And, yes, a metal barrel is provided. I may try to rifle it, with a file. With a little a little cutting, I think I can get some .05mm styrene to replicate rifling.

I am aware of how well the Sherman performed. Too many people judge it by its thinner armor and usual lack of a high velocity gun. The tank performed exceedingly well, as it was meant to be used. I believe it was Zaloga that addressed the purpose of different tank designs. They were a great boon for British, when deployed in North Africa. As far as the actual color variance of olive drab, I understand the difference in shades. Not only is it apparent in color plates, but I am also lucky enough to have had several of my relatives serve. I usually go with Life Color or Tamiya paints.

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I am aware of how well the Sherman performed. Too many people judge it by its thinner armor and usual lack of a high velocity gun. The tank performed exceedingly well, as it was meant to be used. I believe it was Zaloga that addressed the purpose of different tank designs. They were a great boon for British, when deployed in North Africa. As far as the actual color variance of olive drab, I understand the difference in shades. Not only is it apparent in color plates, but I am also lucky enough to have had several of my relatives serve. I usually go with Life Color or Tamiya paints.

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Sure- Agree with everything you've just posted.

Yeah, the TAMIYA and LIFE COLOUR paints are great stuff! Me, I'm old fashioned- I still like my TESTORS MODELMASTER II Enamels. I custom-mix all of my colors, the exceptions being the basics like WHITE, BLACK, RED, etc, except where some weathering, staining or ageing is necessary to convey the "proper" impression. I like the TAMIYA and LIFE COLOUR Acrylics with SOME figure-painting applications, but I still custom-mix them on a palette, as I do my Enamels and Oils.

I find that paint colors "straight out of the bottle" don't match the real article, especially where uniforms are concerned. I was lucky enough to amass a lot of original WWII Uniform articles, (in better times, that is), so I mix my uniform colors to match the real thing on my palette, waiting for my "test-sample" to dry properly, before I match the color with the article in question. I like to "adjust" the color with a tiny bit of appropriately-colored Weathering Powders, (Ochre, White, Brown, etc) added to the very tip of my paint brush, also taking into account that the powder itself helps to "flatten" any sheen that the paint may have developed. I like to use pristine thinners to thin the color mixes on my palette, since the addition of the Weathering Powders tend to thicken my colors. You'd be surprised how well this little system of mine works...

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I am aware of how well the Sherman performed. Too many people judge it by its thinner armor and usual lack of a high velocity gun. The tank performed exceedingly well, as it was meant to be used. I believe it was Zaloga that addressed the purpose of different tank designs. They were a great boon for British, when deployed in North Africa. As far as the actual color variance of olive drab, I understand the difference in shades. Not only is it apparent in color plates, but I am also lucky enough to have had several of my relatives serve. I usually go with Life Color or Tamiya paints.

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Sure- Agree with everything you've just posted.

Yeah, the TAMIYA and LIFE COLOUR paints are great stuff! Me, I'm old fashioned- I still like my TESTORS MODELMASTER II Enamels. I custom-mix all of my colors, the exceptions being the basics like WHITE, BLACK, RED, etc, except where some weathering, staining or ageing is necessary to convey the "proper" impression. I like the TAMIYA and LIFE COLOUR Acrylics with SOME figure-painting applications, but I still custom-mix them on a palette, as I do my Enamels and Oils.

I find that paint colors "straight out of the bottle" don't match the real article, especially where uniforms are concerned. I was lucky enough to amass a lot of original WWII Uniform articles, (in better times, that is), so I mix my uniform colors to match the real thing on my palette, waiting for my "test-sample" to dry properly, before I match the color with the article in question. I like to "adjust" the color with a tiny bit of appropriately-colored Weathering Powders, (Ochre, White, Brown, etc) added to the very tip of my paint brush, also taking into account that the powder itself helps to "flatten" any sheen that the paint may have developed. I like to use pristine thinners to thin the color mixes on my palette, since the addition of the Weathering Powders tend to thicken my colors. You'd be surprised how well this little system of mine works...

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I'm still fairly new to figures. I do enjoy them, so far. My biggest weakness are faces. Some mixing is in order for me to capture a reflection of reality. As this diorama will be comprised of several figures, I need to get to practicing. Although, I may have to wait until after surgery on my hand(which is getting worse by the day). Worst case scenario, I sell my entire set up and find a hobby that requires less dexterity.