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Tamiya AMX-13
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 - 09:48 PM UTC
Thanks Al,no problems not ready for paint yet,thanks for the tips and looking good.
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 - 11:59 PM UTC
Too long between updates, it's like the man said, "Life is what happens while you're making plans". Luckily, it's all been good. Got a chance to do some work and started by painting the weather seal on the turret.
I'm still impressed by how well engineered it was and how well it went together. Also added the screen to the fan housing, located on the engine deck. It's the only PE part in the kit.
I painted and weathered the fan, but could have saved my self the effort for the little that is visible. The muffler got some paint also.
A wash brings out the nice detail on the lower hull, which of course won't be seen once the model is mounted on a base.
Started painting the driver, once he is installed I can close up the hull. I did have one small setback. I dropped one of the idler wheels and found it by stepping on it. Luckily the damage was repairable. Thanks for looking.
Al
I'm still impressed by how well engineered it was and how well it went together. Also added the screen to the fan housing, located on the engine deck. It's the only PE part in the kit.
I painted and weathered the fan, but could have saved my self the effort for the little that is visible. The muffler got some paint also.
A wash brings out the nice detail on the lower hull, which of course won't be seen once the model is mounted on a base.
Started painting the driver, once he is installed I can close up the hull. I did have one small setback. I dropped one of the idler wheels and found it by stepping on it. Luckily the damage was repairable. Thanks for looking.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Friday, August 26, 2016 - 10:47 PM UTC
Hello again, it's been way too long since I last posted and I must apologize. I had started to paint the figure and the heat and humidity played hell with the paint and nothing can stall a project faster for me. While trying to decide how best to proceed, I got side-tracked by other projects and outdoor summer-type activities. But now I'm back at it again and almost derailed it again. I've never worked with Tamiya's glue-able tracks before and wasn't sure what type of glue would work best. The kit's instructions just tell you not to use Tamiya's Super Thin Cement. Well, I found out that the liquid cement that I was using was a bit too strong also. It bonded well but started to dissolve the thinner parts of the track. Luckily I was able to save the tracks by a quick application of super-glue and kicker. The tracks are mounted and I used the old metal rod through the hull trick to give them a little sag. I'll camouflage the rods with a little mud.
As you can see, I've also started working on a simple base for the tank. I've become a firm believer in mounting the model to a base. For ease of handling without risking damage to the model and for aesthetic reasons also. The lower hull is just temporarily bolted into position for now. That's it for now, thanks for looking and I promise it won't be near as long until my next installment.
Al
As you can see, I've also started working on a simple base for the tank. I've become a firm believer in mounting the model to a base. For ease of handling without risking damage to the model and for aesthetic reasons also. The lower hull is just temporarily bolted into position for now. That's it for now, thanks for looking and I promise it won't be near as long until my next installment.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 - 10:25 PM UTC
Tracks painted.
I used Tamiya Linoleum Deck Brown (XF-79) and a dark gray acrylic for the rubber track blocks. After a coat of paint the brass rods aren't as noticeable.
The driver was installed.
And the upper hull was mated to the lower.
It just snaps in place, but I flowed some liquid cement into the joints. With the turret in place, it is starting to look like a tank.
There are some more details to be added, then the decals and some weathering. Al
I used Tamiya Linoleum Deck Brown (XF-79) and a dark gray acrylic for the rubber track blocks. After a coat of paint the brass rods aren't as noticeable.
The driver was installed.
And the upper hull was mated to the lower.
It just snaps in place, but I flowed some liquid cement into the joints. With the turret in place, it is starting to look like a tank.
There are some more details to be added, then the decals and some weathering.
Al
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 - 11:15 PM UTC
Beautiful work! Kudos!
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 12:28 AM UTC
Nice job but why don't you install the mudguardon the glacis? It was a standard feature on the tanks of the timeframe of the Tamiya model.
Olivier
Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 06:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice job but why don't you install the mudguardon the glacis? It was a standard feature on the tanks of the timeframe of the Tamiya model.
Olivier
Hello Olivier, I still have a ways to go. I think that you're referring to Part # C18. I thought it was a kind of 'surf board', like on the front of an M-113. You know for fording rivers and streams. Funny, but I just had that part in my hand contemplating how to go about painting it. I know that a lot of builders complete the whole tank before painting it. I prefer to work in sub-assemblies. Leaving some parts separate to be painted and attached later. I find it makes it easier to get paint in tight corners sometimes. Still have that piece, the lights, spare track, and tools to paint and attach. I'll get there. Thanks for looking.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 06:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Beautiful work! Kudos!
Thanks, Michael.
Albison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 12:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello Olivier, I still have a ways to go. I think that you're referring to Part # C18. I thought it was a kind of 'surf board', like on the front of an M-113. You know for fording rivers and streams. Funny, but I just had that part in my hand contemplating how to go about painting it. I know that a lot of builders complete the whole tank before painting it. I prefer to work in sub-assemblies. Leaving some parts separate to be painted and attached later. I find it makes it easier to get paint in tight corners sometimes. Still have that piece, the lights, spare track, and tools to paint and attach. I'll get there. Thanks for looking.
Hi Al,
I don't know the part ref number but I guess we are talking about the same thing. Initially, the mudguard was not present on the AMX 13. It was fitted from 1958. The Tamiya kit features the dust cover on the turret which was fitted from 1960 so the kit should have the mudguard.
You could omit it but at least you should add all the mounting brackets on the side fenders.
Like you, I tend to paint some details or accessories separately to facilitate the whole process and avoid breaking fragile parts.
Keep on the good work
Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 03:02 PM UTC
Hi Al,
I don't know the part ref number but I guess we are talking about the same thing. [quoted]
I'm sure we are, the piece that goes across the front between the fenders, in front of the travel-lock. Going to try and get it painted and installed today if I can. AL
I don't know the part ref number but I guess we are talking about the same thing. [quoted]
I'm sure we are, the piece that goes across the front between the fenders, in front of the travel-lock. Going to try and get it painted and installed today if I can.
ALTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 08:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Al,
I don't know the part ref number but I guess we are talking about the same thing. [quoted]
I'm sure we are, the piece that goes across the front between the fenders, in front of the travel-lock. Going to try and get it painted and installed today if I can.
Well I got it done, painted and in place.
There are two small braces that go behind it (Parts A20).
As you can see, one goes through the travel lock. I had cemented the spare wheel in place last night and found that I had to pop it loose to make it easier to fit that brace. You can also see that I applied the decals also. The markings are rather generic and bland but I wanted to keep this as close to "out of the box" as possible.
One of the tanks has the name "Duroc" on one side of the turret and I decided to go with that one. However, Due to a mishap with the setting solution that I was using (Solvaset), I had to use the number plates from the other tank. So they aren't correct for this one. The setting solution worked as advertised but the decal moved slightly out of position and when I tried to coax it back it was destroyed. C'est la vie.
Albison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 - 10:33 PM UTC
Sorry to read about the decal Duroc. But don't be upset however, Tamiya omitted the second decal. On the French tanks there were one name on each side of the turret.
The registration number is wrong anyway. The first block of figures 101 doesn't match anything existing in the French system.
The tank belonging to the Army, the first digit should be 2 or 6 (6 for a tank produced after 1970). The second digit is the last number of the year. The third digit is either 4 for a brand new tank or 8 for a tank retrofitted at the factory. After 1980, the year was indicated by the last two digits. That helps make the difference between a tank built from 1970 to 1979 (1 digit only) and a tank built from 1980 onwards.
A tank built in 2016 sports 6 (army) 16 (year) 4 (combat vehicle).
You should paint the reflectors on the fenders red.
Olivier
The registration number is wrong anyway. The first block of figures 101 doesn't match anything existing in the French system.
The tank belonging to the Army, the first digit should be 2 or 6 (6 for a tank produced after 1970). The second digit is the last number of the year. The third digit is either 4 for a brand new tank or 8 for a tank retrofitted at the factory. After 1980, the year was indicated by the last two digits. That helps make the difference between a tank built from 1970 to 1979 (1 digit only) and a tank built from 1980 onwards.
A tank built in 2016 sports 6 (army) 16 (year) 4 (combat vehicle).
You should paint the reflectors on the fenders red.
Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 07:57 AM UTC
Thanks for the info, Olivier. I'll have to try and source another "Duroc" for the other side of the turret. Was going to write to Tamiya for another figure to place in the commander's hatch, guess I'll ask them for a set of decals too.
You should paint the reflectors on the fenders red.[Quoted]
That's what the instructions suggested. But in the only photo that I could find that showed them clearly.
They looked silver or white. Most of the tanks in the photos that I've seen don't even have the reflectors mounted. Confusing, but I'll take your word for it and paint 'em red.
Al
zontar
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 1,646 posts
Armorama: 1,557 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 09:53 AM UTC
Nice work Al. Interesting vehicle. I might have to pick one up.
-Zon
-Zon
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 01:59 PM UTC
Al
for your additional crew, you'd better contact Blast models
For the reflectors, I know they were removed at a time but I still have to find the year. I'll tell you if I can find the correct information.
Olivier
for your additional crew, you'd better contact Blast models
For the reflectors, I know they were removed at a time but I still have to find the year. I'll tell you if I can find the correct information.
Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 02:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Al
for your additional crew, you'd better contact Blast models
For the reflectors, I know they were removed at a time but I still have to find the year. I'll tell you if I can find the correct information.
Olivier
Hello Olivier, Saw those figures and was sorely tempted. They do look nice. Wish I'd seen 'em before I cemented the loader's hatch shut. Would have been nice to have a full crew. Now I only need one figure, to replace the kit's 'commander' that I used for the driver. That set would leave me with two figures and no vehicle to put them in. That mean's I'd be forced to add another kit to The Stash and I've sworn (Many, many, many, times) not to do that until I've reduced it a bit. That should be around 2028!
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 02:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice work Al. Interesting vehicle. I might have to pick one up.
-Zon
Thank you, Zon. It's a nice kit and goes together well, practically 'Shake-n-Bake'.
Albison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 06:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
That mean's I'd be forced to add another kit to The Stash and I've sworn (Many, many, many, times) not to do that until I've reduced it a bit. That should be around 2028!
I understand
Don't you have a AMX 30 or a EBR in your stash. Those figures would perfectly fit those vehicles as well.Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2016 - 08:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThat mean's I'd be forced to add another kit to The Stash and I've sworn (Many, many, many, times) not to do that until I've reduced it a bit. That should be around 2028!
I understand
Olivier
Right now the only French tanks in the stash are all WW1 vintage, Renault, St.Chamond, and Schneider. I've gotten a few figures for them and Stalingrad has announced a five figure set of WW1 French tankers that is on my wish list. Though I must admit, the AMX-10RCR by Tiger is tempting. No, No, must resist!
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Friday, September 02, 2016 - 03:50 AM UTC
For the two pair of headlights, Tamiya supplies solid, rather than clear lenses. After painting the lights to match the hull, I prefer to paint the insides (silver and black respectively)and use a drop of two-part epoxy to represent the lenses.
I think this looks better than painting a solid piece to try and look like glass. Here are the lights mounted behind their guards.
The two outer (Black, I/R) lights mount directly to the guard frames and were easy to attach. The two inner ones have to slide inside those frames and mount to the hull. They were a little more difficult to position, but perseverance paid off. Also added a drop of Tamiya Clear Red (X-27) to each of the fender-mounted reflectors (as per Olivier and the instructions).
I still have to paint those small, square, fender mounted lights as well as the taillights. Then on to the pioneer tools. Thanks for looking, all questions and comments welcomed. Al
I think this looks better than painting a solid piece to try and look like glass. Here are the lights mounted behind their guards.
The two outer (Black, I/R) lights mount directly to the guard frames and were easy to attach. The two inner ones have to slide inside those frames and mount to the hull. They were a little more difficult to position, but perseverance paid off. Also added a drop of Tamiya Clear Red (X-27) to each of the fender-mounted reflectors (as per Olivier and the instructions).
I still have to paint those small, square, fender mounted lights as well as the taillights. Then on to the pioneer tools. Thanks for looking, all questions and comments welcomed.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Friday, September 02, 2016 - 07:28 PM UTC
Spare track painted and mounted to the glacis.
Commander's hatch has been installed also.
An overall view.
Well,it's a holiday weekend so I doubt that I'll get much time at the bench....To be continued. Al
Commander's hatch has been installed also.
An overall view.
Well,it's a holiday weekend so I doubt that I'll get much time at the bench....To be continued.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Monday, September 05, 2016 - 07:09 AM UTC
I managed to slip a little time in at the bench, between Holiday cook-outs. Pry bar added to the rear deck.
And that small tarp to the rear of the turret.
The square tabs on the ends of the tarp looked a little stubby to me, so I sanded them off and replaced them with some styrene strip. Also, somewhere along the line I unknowingly managed to knock one of the grab handles off of the back of the turret and had to make a new one from thin brass rod. Thanks for looking. Al
And that small tarp to the rear of the turret.
The square tabs on the ends of the tarp looked a little stubby to me, so I sanded them off and replaced them with some styrene strip. Also, somewhere along the line I unknowingly managed to knock one of the grab handles off of the back of the turret and had to make a new one from thin brass rod. Thanks for looking.
Albison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Monday, September 05, 2016 - 11:55 AM UTC
The pry bar should be a darker shade of metal. The tarp is in fact a bag for spare antenna elements.
Do you intend to fill the vision ports?
You're close to the end. Good job!
Olivier
Do you intend to fill the vision ports?
You're close to the end. Good job!
Olivier
TAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Monday, September 05, 2016 - 05:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The pry bar should be a darker shade of metal. The tarp is in fact a bag for spare antenna elements.
Do you intend to fill the vision ports?
You're close to the end. Good job!
Olivier
Thanks Olivier, I actually went back and darkened the pry bar after the pictures were taken. Good to know what the 'tarp' actually is. I remember when instruction sheets used to tell you what a part was supposed to be and not just identify it by a number. As to the vision ports, I was going to use Testors' Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. I've used it before and it works well, holds up pretty good, and is easy to repair if damaged.
AlTAFFY3
Joined: January 21, 2008
KitMaker: 2,531 posts
Armorama: 859 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 05:34 PM UTC
Getting down to the wire, Pick & Shovel added to the turret, Ax to the rear of the hull.
Sledgehammer added to the glacis.
Not sure if it shows up in the photos, but I used Testors' "Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker" to add 'glass' to the periscopes and vision blocks.
Some dirt and mud to be added to the lower hull, don't want it to look too grubby, but used. Spoke to the folks at TamiyaUSA and ordered the "B" sprue, which contains the parts to the 'Commander', for a modest fee. Got a base coat on the base (sounds funny). Will mount the tank after the lower hull and suspension are weathered. As always any comments or questions are welcomed. Al
Sledgehammer added to the glacis.
Not sure if it shows up in the photos, but I used Testors' "Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker" to add 'glass' to the periscopes and vision blocks.
Some dirt and mud to be added to the lower hull, don't want it to look too grubby, but used. Spoke to the folks at TamiyaUSA and ordered the "B" sprue, which contains the parts to the 'Commander', for a modest fee. Got a base coat on the base (sounds funny). Will mount the tank after the lower hull and suspension are weathered. As always any comments or questions are welcomed.
Al
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