For The Abrams build I'm doing the new Tamiya M1A1/A2 kit By far this kit is much better than the DML OIF Abrams kit in my book. With only the minor problem with improperly modeled grill and the lack of non-skid, Tamiya has redone the entire turret of the kit and has surpased their previous offering. the only thing I did to the hull is add some PE from Eduard to fix the grill on the left side. So here are some progress pics.

The new track in the kit are the updated "big foot" tracks!!!

comments are welcome more pics soon. STUG

More pics, I hit the update button by accident before. So here they are.
the fixed grill with the eduard PE peices.

The started turret.


Again comments are welcome. STUG

You are just a few parts ahead of me on this one so I guess that means I'm in second place . One thing on the hull that I allways fix is the wire rung that is used for a step by the crew on the front skirt . A piece of string and a drilled out slot in the back of the skirt is a quick fix for that . Good stuff on the intake grill drive on .

SteveStug,

Long time no see! Great to see you post some AFVs on Armorama. A nice M1A1 you are building now and can't wait to see you finish it. Are you gonna fill the hole under the lower hull?

Thanks guys.
Carlton, it's a little late for me to change the step, already glued the hull down. The reason my clamps are in the pics. I'm also adding the mine plow from the old Tamiya A1 kit. So expect more questions there Carlton.
SteveSushi, yes, i'll fill those got sheet styrene today to create a backing for the putty to fill those holes. I must say this build is going good and it's been very enjoyable. I must say that I'm glad Monday is a holiday I'll be able to get more done this weekend than planned. But I havn't decided if I'll set this aside and do more on my Chally 2. This has been such a good project so far and I don't want to put it down. STUG

You can still fix the wire Steve there is room there to get at it just be carefull . Another thing or 2 I just caught on mine : still no bilge pump nozzle and the "lip" around the drivers hatch is still there and of course no anti-skid coating . The Trumpter kit is right have to go look at the DML kit . Here is a pic of the drivers hatch - no raised lip on the hull .



Going to post pics of mine later , once it starts to become its own tank . I see no reason to flood R R with the same tank over and over , I think this kit will be the most used for this build .

Carlton I was going to Email this nbut i'll ask here since the pic is posted for the hatch. Does the actuator cable for the plow go through a emptied periscope or is there a housing/cutout for it to go through. I ask because it would make since to have the Tank buttoned up for mine hunting ops. Funny when you think about it. this is the only thing the Navy and Army agree on: Give the most crew protection when hunting mines!! STUG

The right periscope on the drivers hatch is removed to let the cable go thru...

see this post
Hope this helps!
:-H

Thanks guys, Jurgen for posting here and Carlton for his email and chat with my wife about that dreaded cable. Now if only it would stay down. Maybe I'll try wire with black insulation. I have the plow almost finished and mounted and I'll probably finish off the lower tonight. I'll post new pics soon maybe this tread or a new one will be started. STUG