Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Takom' new M3 Lee
27-1025
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Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 09:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Some very poor engineering by Takom in how parts build-up in glacis and upper hull...

Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?

Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?

Like shown in this pic from Chris:




The minor gaps are my doing and not taking the time to adequately clean the joins. The AMPS site on facebook posted a build of this kit today and the joins are flawless.
As for me I have to go a different route....







think I got them all. Will check again after hitting it with a primer coat
27-1025
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Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 09:43 PM UTC
and few more pics

the mufflers



the rear extension, engine access door and other detail parts



remaining parts added to the three part FDA

JavierDeLuelmo
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Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 11:21 PM UTC
Nice Chris you filed the gaps, great.

But it's not your fault, they shouldn't be there in first place. Better engineering from Takom (and other companies) should have avoided these.

Old school modelling (real modelling, in fact), of course can and will handle all these issues. But with all that hype on sliding moulds, 3D tech, supermegadetail and all and all, model companies should squeeze their brains just a bit more to give a real quality product, specially so when the solution lies in the real thing!
27-1025
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 12:31 AM UTC
just looked at the final pic and see I missed another gap. The camera closeup is a cruel mistress. Time to break out the Perfect Putty.
165thspc
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 12:52 AM UTC
Dan, absolutely outstanding reference on the Delaware VFW photos. Wow!
TotemWolf
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 01:03 AM UTC
I have been thinking about building a Lee/Grant for a bit now. Your build is really inspiring me. I'll be following this and might have to even pick one up myself.
27-1025
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 02:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Dan, absolutely outstanding reference on the Delaware VFW photos. Wow!



Ditto that!!! Wish we had something that well preserved near us. Thanks for sharing those.
easyco69
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 05:28 AM UTC
awesome! Me wants.
warmonger
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 08:14 AM UTC
I love that putty. You can clean it up with a Q-tip and water.
27-1025
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 09:06 AM UTC
This kit really comes together quickly.

The completed turret





Tool stowage on the rear deck and with the fuel tank caps attached





The drive sprocket and idler wheel assembly. Happy the rings for the idler wheel were not PE





The rear mud flaps need a little attention



The upper and lower hulls close to completion. Just need to finish up three sets of bogeys and then time to hit it with a coat of primer





petbat
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 01:59 PM UTC
Looking good Chris.

Just one thing, and I am not sure if it is just the close up pic or an effect of the resizing program or not, but it looks like the front of the cupola has some flash on the front and the circumference:
27-1025
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Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2017 - 10:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good Chris.

Just one thing, and I am not sure if it is just the close up pic or an effect of the resizing program or not, but it looks like the front of the cupola has some flash on the front and the circumference:



Thanks for catching that. Somewhat better now.

petbat
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 12:07 AM UTC
Cool. Glad you could fix it before it was primed. I usually find my misses after primer AND base coat.
gastec
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 12:57 AM UTC
Don't forget the mould seam around the pistol port too.

Gary
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 02:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Don't forget the mould seam around the pistol port too.

Gary



I have to keep referring back to the photographs because to the naked eye it doesn't show. Give it a quick swipe with some sand paper and see what happens.
SEDimmick
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 06:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Some very poor engineering by Takom in how parts build-up in glacis and upper hull...

Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?

Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?

Like shown in this pic from Chris:




This is partly due to the slight toe down that the sponson sides of the hull have. You can see it here:



Look at the mating line on the rear hull plate with sponson sides...there is a gap

I'm working on two of these kits and the fit isn't that bad. I bent the second kit's sponson up to see if that helps when I start building that.
27-1025
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Joined: September 16, 2004
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 09:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Some very poor engineering by Takom in how parts build-up in glacis and upper hull...

Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?

Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?

Like shown in this pic from Chris:




This is partly due to the slight toe down that the sponson sides of the hull have. You can see it here:



Look at the mating line on the rear hull plate with sponson sides...there is a gap

I'm working on two of these kits and the fit isn't that bad. I bent the second kit's sponson up to see if that helps when I start building that.



I'll pay closer attention to that when I start my Grant and see if that improves the overall fit - not that the fit is horrible - just could be a bit better.
SEDimmick
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Posted: Monday, September 11, 2017 - 11:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Some very poor engineering by Takom in how parts build-up in glacis and upper hull...

Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?

Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?

Like shown in this pic from Chris:




This is partly due to the slight toe down that the sponson sides of the hull have. You can see it here:



Look at the mating line on the rear hull plate with sponson sides...there is a gap

I'm working on two of these kits and the fit isn't that bad. I bent the second kit's sponson up to see if that helps when I start building that.



I'll pay closer attention to that when I start my Grant and see if that improves the overall fit - not that the fit is horrible - just could be a bit better.



I'm building my Grant as a M3 with the quickfix stuff on it.
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 01:01 AM UTC
My two cents worth . . . .

#1 Designing the kit plates to meet in the same way as the actual tank drastically increases the chance for glue to squeeze out between the plates.

#2 It is unusual for a finely done kit these days to have parts that would match the scale thickness of the armor plates????

Just my thoughts . . . worth what you paid for them.
27-1025
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 01:52 AM UTC
About ready for primer and paint. Going to try Mission Models for the first time. I have their Primer, thinner, some kind of additive and four different shades of US OD. See which one looks best for WWII era color. I decided to scrap the kit link and length tracks and go with indy link set from Bronco. A lot more work but just looks better in my opinion alone.







Steven000
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 01:56 AM UTC
It's coming together nicely Chris
I'm looking forward to your paintwork

Kind regards
Steven
petbat
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 03:47 PM UTC
Coming along very nicely Chris.

I hope the Bronco tracks fit your sprockets. Their Diehl 640 tracks (labelled for AS90 but same track as Leopard 1) don't fit the Takom Gepard sprockets. At least you didn't spill glue on the grant ones and you have a plan B.
ColinEdm
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 07:25 PM UTC
Looking good Chris! I remember building Tamiya's dog 35+ years ago, although back then it wasn't a dog
27-1025
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 09:07 PM UTC
Started with a coat of primer and then multiple light coats of "US Army OD" FS319. The paint goes on nicely. I thinned it a bit more than the manufacturer recommends and I use the flow additive. Not to sure about the color itself but it looks okay. Should darken up a bit with a coat of Future and then some washes and filters.













md72
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 - 09:32 PM UTC
Wow, I'm normally into wingy thingys, but this is inspiring. Great work Chris!