Hosted by Darren Baker
Takom' new M3 Lee
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:03 AM UTC
Arrived today. First look is very favorable. Will have to read up on what makes this an 'early' version as opposed to later issue. Only two markings provided; one Soviet LL and a US stateside training unit.
trickymissfit
Joined: October 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:20 AM UTC
I'll more than likely buy this kit, but really want to do at least one N. African tank (Grant?) Plus I'd love todo Bogart's tank from the movie Sahara.
Really like Takom kits
gary
Really like Takom kits
gary
FarmerDave
Joined: September 07, 2014
KitMaker: 63 posts
Armorama: 63 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:23 AM UTC
Looking forward to the build.
ALBOWIE
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 1,605 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:35 AM UTC
What makes this the Early is the Exhaust Configuration for one. The Later (Tunisian Lees) had Sherman type Air Filters and Fishtail exhausts rather than the "Pepperpot" ones in the Kit. You will have to Drill out the Glacis MG ports and put 30 Cal Barrels in for a real early one though.
Al
Al
Removed by original poster on 09/05/17 - 20:39:56 (GMT).
ReluctantRenegade
Joined: March 09, 2016
KitMaker: 2,408 posts
Armorama: 2,300 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:47 AM UTC
Can this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 01:54 AM UTC
M3 changes over time:
Exhaust went from mufflers under rear overhang, to fishtail exhausts in rear plate with external air cleaners, to fishtail exhausts under overhang with external air cleaners.
Side doors went to welded without pistol ports and floor escape hatch, to omitted altogether.
Gun went from plain M2, to M2 with counterweight, to M3.
Grouser stowage boxes were added to the glacis and roof above driver; equipment boxes added to rear sponsons.
KL
Exhaust went from mufflers under rear overhang, to fishtail exhausts in rear plate with external air cleaners, to fishtail exhausts under overhang with external air cleaners.
Side doors went to welded without pistol ports and floor escape hatch, to omitted altogether.
Gun went from plain M2, to M2 with counterweight, to M3.
Grouser stowage boxes were added to the glacis and roof above driver; equipment boxes added to rear sponsons.
KL
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 - 02:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Can this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
Sure, you just have to change the exhausts, the gun, and the cupola, and maybe the tracks; and add the sponson boxes, the smoke grenade launchers, and the stowage.
It's an early M3 and it builds what is shown on the boxart with minimal options.
KL
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 - 08:06 PM UTC
Just playing with this thing. It's very well engineered and everything fits. Some minor gaps between plates at three locations. Likely my errors. The tolerances are tights so you need to carefully clean the mating surfaces. Perfect Putty will fix those.
Needs a swipe of putty on the rear idler mounts
Not fixed, but kit provides the counterweight and a plain barrel.
You can see the small gaps on the left and front plates.
None of the rear deck is glued down yet. On the left and right side plates there are drill out holes underneath suggesting future versions to come, maybe a later model to accompany the M31.
Haven't touched the running gear yet but they look very good on the sprue.
Needs a swipe of putty on the rear idler mounts
Not fixed, but kit provides the counterweight and a plain barrel.
You can see the small gaps on the left and front plates.
None of the rear deck is glued down yet. On the left and right side plates there are drill out holes underneath suggesting future versions to come, maybe a later model to accompany the M31.
Haven't touched the running gear yet but they look very good on the sprue.
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 - 10:54 PM UTC
Forgot to add these. Turret is nicely done and appears to be accurate in shape. The 37mm gun barrel as well as the 75mm are slide molded. Just a small mold seam to remove.
WXerock
#450
Joined: July 19, 2015
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 668 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 12:10 AM UTC
Chris, thank you so much for doing this build. It looks like I don't have to fear building an M3 or having to spend a ton of time on corrections. It looks like a really well engineered kit.
Regards,
Eric
Regards,
Eric
ARENGCA
Joined: February 13, 2002
KitMaker: 382 posts
Armorama: 267 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 12:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextCan this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
Sure, you just have to change the exhausts, the gun, and the cupola, and maybe the tracks; and add the sponson boxes, the smoke grenade launchers, and the stowage.
It's an early M3 and it builds what is shown on the boxart with minimal options.
Another option is to simply buy the "Grant" version of this kit that Takom released simultaneously with this kit.
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 01:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Chris, thank you so much for doing this build. It looks like I don't have to fear building an M3 or having to spend a ton of time on corrections. It looks like a really well engineered kit.
Regards,
Eric
Almost 'Tamiya' easy to build. Haven't taken a micrometer to it but it looks right and matches various photos I have.
Not a big fan of link & length tracks so not sure if I'll go strictly OOB on this one.
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 01:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextCan this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
Sure, you just have to change the exhausts, the gun, and the cupola, and maybe the tracks; and add the sponson boxes, the smoke grenade launchers, and the stowage.
It's an early M3 and it builds what is shown on the boxart with minimal options.
Another option is to simply buy the "Grant" version of this kit that Takom released simultaneously with this kit.
Yep. Liked the Lee so much just ordered the Grant today.
Bravo1102
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 2,864 posts
Armorama: 2,497 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 04:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Can this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
Takom will probably be doing one down the road. Wait.
You should at least start with a mid or late M3 rather than an early.
Love the Bright colorful 2nd AD in Louisiana Maneuvers.
ALBOWIE
Joined: February 28, 2006
KitMaker: 1,605 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 01:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextCan this variant be built as a British tank during the '44-'45 Burma campaign?
Sure, you just have to change the exhausts, the gun, and the cupola, and maybe the tracks; and add the sponson boxes, the smoke grenade launchers, and the stowage.
It's an early M3 and it builds what is shown on the boxart with minimal options.
Another option is to simply buy the "Grant" version of this kit that Takom released simultaneously with this kit.
You would still be faced with the same problems as using a Lee kit as the Grant has the same early configuration, The majority of Burma M3 were lees and most were late configurations although some M2 Barrels can be seen.
Al
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 - 09:47 PM UTC
The running gear assembly is very similar in design as Asuka/Tasca.
and you have to add these tiny bolt heads
to the wheel support arms - front and back
completed wheel bogeys front and back
and you have to add these tiny bolt heads
to the wheel support arms - front and back
completed wheel bogeys front and back
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 12:06 AM UTC
A few additional steps
very small PE details
the engine deck screen
and the deck attached to the upper hull along with the left and right upper plates
side doors and vision ports
very small PE details
the engine deck screen
and the deck attached to the upper hull along with the left and right upper plates
side doors and vision ports
Jupiterblitz
Joined: December 30, 2007
KitMaker: 885 posts
Armorama: 796 posts
KitMaker: 885 posts
Armorama: 796 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 12:27 AM UTC
Hello Chris,
are any clear parts being provided?
Thank you.
are any clear parts being provided?
Thank you.
JavierDeLuelmo
Joined: February 29, 2016
KitMaker: 189 posts
Armorama: 186 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 02:27 AM UTC
Some very poor engineering by Takom in how parts build-up in glacis and upper hull...
Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?
Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?
Like shown in this pic from Chris:
Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?
Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?
Like shown in this pic from Chris:
d6mst0
#453
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 1,925 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 02:43 AM UTC
Purchased this kit last week. Looks like it is going to be sweet build. Thanks for posting your work.
petbat
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 02:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Why beveled edges on flat plates that in reality simply lie against with each other in a natural panel line?
Why creating seams and fit problems, when copying the real arrangement would work perfectly?
The same question I am asking for the Gepard I am building. A lot of bevelled edges on parts that simply do not fit OOB. You have to trim the inner bevelled edge to get the seam to line up close on most parts, but there is still a gap where some parts are a tad too short to fit flush. You have to be soooo careful not to trim the exposed fine edge.
That said, nothing old school modelling techniques can't fix and you look to have this one well in hand. I am very interested to see how this one finishes up. Thanks for the review so far
panamadan
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 1,513 posts
Armorama: 1,449 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 07:09 PM UTC
Bravo1102
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 2,864 posts
Armorama: 2,497 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 09:05 PM UTC
Thanks for showing these great pictures! A glance on the top hull part shows a pile of pre-drilled holes not opened up on this variant. Looking at them I see holes for the Grant driver's periscope, the hull top ventilators and the grouser storage boxes. More variants are in the future.
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 09:28 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello Chris,
are any clear parts being provided?
Thank you.
Hi, the only clear parts are the two headlight lenses.
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