Available from ICM Holding starting this month, is another Liberty Truck kit, this time a model of the Series 2.

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If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!

Terrific Great War option.

I absolutely love these new WWI kits from ICM. My wallet doesn't like them though.

My only comment for both the Series 1 and Series 2 trucks is that there should be folding troop seats in the rear. But these are a simple affair, easily scratched.

Haven't picked up either of them yet, but give it a few moments...

Hi, Mike!

Agree!

As everyone must already know I have built the Series 1 truck and am very pleased with the detail, the fit and overall high level of engineering quality invested in the kit.

Differences between the series 1 and 2 vehicles is minimal so the modeler can expect the same high level of quality with this offering.

Darren's review of the Series 1 truck can be viewed here:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/272959


My build of the Series 1 and many more reference photos of both vehicles can be viewed on John Ratzenberger's thread at:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/50451&page=1

One small flaw in the instruction sheet. (Perhaps it has been corrected in this second offering.)

IN STEP #36

.

The instructions would have us attach the main fan pulley to the main engine crank shaft. To do this would prevent the engine block from mounting in the forward engine mount. In this truck the starting crank attaches to the main engine crank shaft and the fan pulley attaches to the forward end of the engine auxiliaries gearbox. This auxiliary shaft also drives the distributor, the water pump and the magneto and runs down the driver's side of the engine block.

Here is the correct assembly:




If you are tempted to think I might have put that front engine mount crossbar in backwards you would be CORRECT! I just now noticed this, however it did not cause any problems later in the assembly but I do wish I had done it correctly at the time.

Please note: while the front axle is quite delicate you can (if you dare) take a pair of square nosed pilers and bend the steering spindle hubs just slightly to angle the front wheels for a more interesting pose.

I very much like their idea of providing cone shaped connector points for the wheels rather than the more typical short cylindrical spindle shafts sticking out! This method makes for a stronger connection and guarantees the wheel is centered on the shaft!

Hi, Mike!

Not to be a wise guy- Just a couple of questions which at first, may seem kind of stupid:

If the Front Axle and Steering components, (Hubs, Axle Spindles, etc) are so fragile, how would one deal with "creating "Camber", and "Toe-Out on Turns", if one wants to pose the Tire/Wheel assemblies in a more candid "right or left turn"? Do the conical connector joints in this kit provide enough leeway to simulate "Camber" or "Toe-out On Turns"..? ("Caster" and "Toe-In" don't really need to be simulated with the Front Wheels of any wheeled-vehicle model kit)

I ask because I for one, really like to assemble the Wheels/Tires on my vehicle models in the more candid "turned-wheels" poses. Usually, I just VERY CAREFULLY bend the Axle Spindles/stubs, (with either square-nosed or needle-nosed pliers as you suggest), which are going to be hidden by the Wheel/Tire assemblies, anyway... This method works better with the larger scales, such as 1/24, 1/25, 1/16, etc... If the Axle Spindles parts are separate from the rest of the Front Axle, then there's really no problem in posing the whole shebang, is there? Often, I'll have to "re-build" the Tie Rods and Pittman Arms to match/fit the other "posed" parts in my Front Ends, IF the steering components are designed to be "non-operable"...

How does anyone feel about a series of 1/35 Mack "Bulldogs" in various guises..?

Or, for that matter other trucks in 1/35 scale, such as Autocars, Ward La France and American La France trucks, Internationals, Macks, FWDs, Diamond Ts, Diamond T-Reos, Reos, Peterbilts, Kenworths, etc? The list just goes on and on...

The entire axle/hub/spindle structure is a one piece molded assembly. I felt safe steering the front wheels slightly but creating toe-in/toe-out would probably break the fragile axle. With a little cutting however anything is possible.



Sorry best picture I could find.

Yes, a Mack Bulldog would be nice! (There is one in resin but too steep for my wallet.)

Another shot, this time of the real front axle:


Looks to me like the axle casting was literally a straight axle with no allowances made for any toe-in/toe-out in the steering geometry.

[quote]Another shot, this time of the real front axle:


Looks to me like the axle casting was literally a straight axle with no allowances made for any toe-in/toe-out in the steering geometry.[/qu

Hi, Mike!

Certain aspects of steering geometry were adjusted on those old straight I-Beam Axles with bronze sleeve-bushings that were slipped, pushed or driven OVER the king-pins, or into the holes on the ends of the Axle itself. I did this little "operation" way back in High School. This took care of Caster and Camber..

Toe-in and toe-out on turns was/is adjusted by turning the Right and Left Tie Rod Ends in-or-out, which is why they're threaded. OR, many different Tie Rods have a "Center Adjustment Sleeve" kind of a "thingy" that you can turn to lengthen or shorten the Tie-Rod itself. Then, one measured the fore-and-aft distances between the tires with a tape measure according to specs, and adjusted accordingly.

IF however, one changed the original "factory-equipped" Tires to narrower or wider Tires, one needed to adjust the specs of the Tie-Rod lengths between the Right and Left Tie-Rod Ends. Complicated? Yeah, it can be if you don't have your wits about you. Many guys back in the old "Hot Rod Days" would FORGET to take steering geometry into account when they put big Tires on in the back and little bitty Tires on in front, or when they jacked up the rear end of their cars with those dopey long Rear Spring Shackles. Then they would wonder why their cars weren't steering properly or why they were wearing their front Tires out waaay before their time...

Today, things are A LOT different, what with computerized steering-adjustment equipment that figures all of this stuff out for you...

SOME of those antediluvian vehicles DIDN'T have much in the way of steering geometry, so you may be right as far as the old Liberty Trucks are concerned. I don't know, because I've never worked on a Liberty Truck's front End.

Once again, as far as somewhat archaic general automotive mechanical work is concerned, I've had actual practical experience in doing steering geometry and basically everything else, too. That's how I learned this stuff- Just saying...

Thanks for the education Dennis!


/ Robin

You're Very Welcome, Robin!

Coming soon from ICM:


And I hope I can slide these into a finished model!

I have one of these trucks available for review!

The Driver figures have now arrived at the local hobby shop!

Info on the new WWI drivers figures available from ICM is now available at:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/276988