Oh, my achin' wallet!

I know that a lot of you are anxious to see how I did the Track, I'm still working on it. I have the method of doing it, here is an early shot on how I'm doing it.
First I painted the wear areas on the Guide Horns.

As seen in the Pics posted previously this side goes out.

It cuts easier with the Nut Side down.

If you make a Jig to hold everything this goes a lot easier.

After the Guide Horn you snap on the next link.

Install the End Connectors , Cut area to the Link with the Nut Detail out

Once again back to the Guide Horn & continue on.

Here's the short section that I did so far.


Finished for now.
Donald

Be that as it may, the Track that you have shown are not exactly the same as the Track in this kit.
I the Kit the detail side is molded on the outside, and if you install them like the Orochi Track all you have on the outside is the cut area without any DETAIL.
LIKE SO

Don't really give a Rats Back side who made them , There's no Jig supplied with the Kit , If you try to install them in one strip, hope you like what you get.

The Instructions say to do it My Way.

Well I finished and installed the Track that come with this Kit.
Some of you might agree with my conclusions and some may not.
Just remember this is what I think, what I found out , & this is my opinion only.
First off if you are really going to use these Tracks I sujest building a jig to hold them while under construction, they are rather flimsy with the poly caps the only thing holding them together. But For how long?


Then there's painting the poly end connectors / (How)
I used 83 Links for each run, I think using less might put too much strain on the flimsy parts.

I've used the Meng Track before and they work really nice.
I don't understand why Takom used this track and not a set of Link and Length like on some of their other kits. The Torsion Arms are fixed, Heck the Wheels need to be glued in place.

I'm not Happy right now.
Donald

I ll better use a metal track...they are more realistic...

Great job with those tracks. And thanks for the documented progress and advice.

I have a little more done.
On both sides of the rear Hull you should drill out slightly the mount holes for the rear flaps.

Otherwise they don't fit quite right.

Some of the Tools overlap so be careful on which order you install them.

There could be a problem with the Smoke units on the upper left side if you'r not careful .The Instructions don't show it but they should vary in pitch Right to Left.

Here's a pic. from Prime Portal showing this.



Finished for now
Donald

Just a little scratching today.
I have a Pic. from Prime Portal showing some kind of support under the edge of the Pully mounted on the front hull, this is not in the kit unless I missed it.
Anyway I scratched one for each side, probably not really accurate but better than none.


Here's the Pic.


Also note there's a support that goes under the bottom of the pully I had this in wrong and it has been corrected.
That's it for now.
Donald

Just a little more added today.
The Commanders Hatch resting on its supports , It's not glued yet, and fits either way.

The rear deck

The Fixture , not shure what it's fore is temporally fitted to rear deck. I think it looks like something to use when pulling an engine.

More small stuff added.


Finished for now.
Donald

The rear tripod is the support for a spare engine

Pics 83 & 84 are of the Leopard Powerpack cradle...

Perfect Scale Modelbau make the powerpack, cradle & Leo1 engine compartment...
PSM Leo Powerpack

...or you buy the new HobbyBoss Leopard C2 Mexas. There‘s a nice detailed powerpack in the kit, but no openings in the tank hull to see it....


Michael

This I Like any pictures?

I'm a little early today.
Here's the Engine Lifting Beam / Unit Whatever you call it.
There's a spot that needs filling, and a push pin that needs to be removed or you can't get the sides together.

Be careful when removing from the Sprue I almost cut the mount off, it's a little tricky on the end of the piece.


Here's where it mounts on the rear deck. I'll glue it down after painting.


Finished for now.
Donald

Not sure if you are interested but I have about 400 photos of the Leopard C1 ARV (Canadian). Free for all to use. Photos include exterior and interior. Many of the pictures are from the example owned by The Canadian War Museum in Ottawa and others are taken during my service years in Germany. It is in full working order and is actually used by the museum for towing and lifting of other vehicles.

https://s661.photobucket.com/user/8Hussar/library?page=1

Cheers
Don Allen

http://leopardclub.ca/reviews/HobbyBoss/C2-MEXAS/

No pics, but you can see the powerpack in the instructions

Just a little more finished.
Here are the two Tow Cables, I used some Steel Cable from my parts box. Just had to drill the ends slightly. Bent them to shape and glued the ends on. For me Copper color cable just doesn't work.

I made the total length to be 147mm. from one assembled end to the other. Will know if that is correct when they are permanently installed.
Here are the Tow Bar storage holders. The instructions would have you assemble them on the hull, it's easier this way.

Then mount them on the Hull.

The Tow Bars just snap right in.

I'll remove them for painting, when I get to that step.


That finishes the sub assemblies for the Hull, I'll be working on the Crane next that looks really complicated.

Finished for now.
Donald

Here's how I did the Crane, it didn't come out quite like I wanted , but not too bad.

First off there's a pivot point where the twin Hydrolic lifts for the Boom mount. One side of the center is 5mm , and the other is 5.5mm be shure the 5.5mm side is down.

If you put the 5.5mm side in the verticle it looks like this.

Not Right.
With the 5mm side in the vertical it looks like this.

The instructions don't mention this.