Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 11:15 PM UTC
Ok, here's my little update for the Sherman campaign. This time, I would like to accurize my kit so any help is greatly appreciated.
Finished the 3 left bogies. Nothin' fancy yet
Finished the turret. I still need to do the bulge on the right cheek and the periscopes. Will use the Academy .30 cal to replace the kit part. Will also replace the coiled wire on the loader's hatch. Anything I miss?
Thinned down (a bit) the deflector. Will add the side attachments and the sponsons later. Anything I miss?
Thinned down a bit. (forgot the name, what do you call these?)
"Flushed" out the welds using putty + knife. Will add the chains on the fuel caps and scratchbuild the headlight guards using foil.
Anything I miss would be greatly appreciated. I am using Eduard's M4A3 PE set as reference for my scratchbuilding and also
US Army Models--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
New York, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 11:25 PM UTC
hi Ralph . the sherman is comeing out really nice.
i like the things u did to imporve
Operation Overlord June 6, 1944
band of brothers on the history channel.
give it a heros welcome
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 11:28 PM UTC
Shonen, I noticed that many times the rear deflector will get banged up alot so you may want to "damage" it a little. I usually like to put a huge dent on the bottom like something banged really hard on it from the bottom.
I also try to bend one of two of the deflector pieces like someone tried to climb on it but the deflector bent because the person was too heavy.
You could also do a combination of both.
You don't support the troops if you don't support the mission!
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 11:33 PM UTC
Thanks guys!
Shermiesrule - nice idea, got to give it a try.
Also, I remember sometime ago seeing periscope guards?? on the periscope on the loader's hatch. I think it was made out of pieces of wire. Can anyone bring that picture up?
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 11:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Also, I remember sometime ago seeing periscope guards?? on the periscope on the loader's hatch. I think it was made out of pieces of wire. Can anyone bring that picture up?
Ok, found it....
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 12:09 AM UTC
Coming along nicely! A few suggestions if you want to tweak it a bit more.:
On the bogies -- add the four bolt holes on the side opposite from the trailing arms. Add three bolt heads to the bottom of the bogie.
On the hatches -- replace the molded on handles with wire.
On the turret -- add the "cheel bulge" on the right side with putty (I see you have that on your "to-do" list).
Are you going to try to make perisccope guards with wire or PE?
Don't forget to fill the bottoms of the sponsons with sheet plastic, and, you can add a strip along the hul sides where the sandshields once mounted.
If you are working off the U.S. Army Models site, you should have a good place to start with most of these mods!
Good luck!
Bob K
Owner, Kansas City FullMetalJacket -- two-time Armorama FFL Champions! 2005 and 2006
God Bless the Troops
Sero Sed Serio
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 12:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
On the bogies -- add the four bolt holes on the side opposite from the trailing arms. Add three bolt heads to the bottom of the bogie.
I tried looking at the net for a close-up.
The pic is from the M4A3E2. I assumed that the same bogies were used. The bolt heads you were talking about are those 3 engraved circles at the bottom?
Quoted Text
On the hatches -- replace the molded on handles with wire.
Will do this one. How thich should the wire be? A little bit thinner or much more thinner?
[quote]Are you going to try to make perisccope guards with wire or PE?[quote]
Got no money for PE so I'll just scratchbuild it :-) :-) :-)
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 12:23 AM UTC
The three bolts are way at the bottom. Looking at you last post it would be right where the words THAT, SAME and WERE. Only one bolt is fully visible.
You don't support the troops if you don't support the mission!
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 10:09 AM UTC
Yeah -- what Alan said.
These bolts are on Academy bogies and many (if not all) DML bogies. For some reason, Tamiya has never added them. BTW, there are three on the bottom of the outer flange and three on the bottom of the inner flange, but you could skip the inner ones -- they are nearly invisible when the tank is sitting on tracks.
Here's a pic of the four bolt holes, in case someone needs it:
For the handles, I'd go a bit thinner than the kit part thickness -- it will be more to scale.
Bob K
Owner, Kansas City FullMetalJacket -- two-time Armorama FFL Champions! 2005 and 2006
God Bless the Troops
Sero Sed Serio
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,041 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 02:59 PM UTC
Hello Ralph.
She's looking great so far!! I like the thinned down parts, but can you fill me in about the cratching of the headlight guards, using foil that is!
Might be a tip I could use as well.
Thanks in advance,
and keep the pics coming, John.
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 03:04 PM UTC
A little bit of update here:
Added the loader's periscope guards using stretched sprue (my first time). Also, I replaced the grab handle on the commander's hatch again with stretched sprue.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 09:41 PM UTC
Another Update:
I scratchbuilt the bolts (sorry for the blurness)
After painting
At a distance
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
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Posted: Friday, August 13, 2004 - 11:24 PM UTC
THose bolt details are awesome. Did you shave some sprue?
You don't support the troops if you don't support the mission!
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 05:25 PM UTC
Quoted Text
THose bolt details are awesome. Did you shave some sprue?
Nope, they're still circular. No need to shave unless you're dead-on accurate. Plus, at a distance, they do look like bolts. I'll try to post an article on how I did it.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Monday, August 30, 2004 - 08:10 PM UTC
Hehehe... took me a long time to update me Shermie
Cheek bulge done using epoxy putty (how long till it dries completely?)
Scratchbuilt railings for the sandbag armor
Opened the access door to the engine.
The place where the engine would be housed.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 30, 2004 - 11:31 PM UTC
Another update
Added periscope guards and grab handles.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: December 27, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 02:41 AM UTC
Hi Ralph:
As I can see you´ll get a very nice and very accurate M4A3. It´s caoming out in a great form.
I love what you have done in the turret´s cheek.
How did you calculate the thickness of the cheek modification ?
Great job
"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few"
Winston Spencer Churchill
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 09:53 AM UTC
What is the red stuff you used to make the periscope guards?
You don't support the troops if you don't support the mission!
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 11:08 AM UTC
Howdy shonen,
She's really looking good there pard!
And I'm getting a big charge out of your attention to detail....nicely done.
One small suggestion, that is if you haven't already passed this point Try thinning out the track skids that sit on top of the main bogey housing. It's not that hard to do, and a lot (
) of people
don't seem to perform that simple bit of accurizing.
If the Tammy skids are left at their OOB thickness, the skids would work out to a scale thickness of almost two inches thick.
Although, if you intend to 'dirty' them up......nevermind.
Keep us appraised.....
Tread.
You're a better man than me, Gunga Din!
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 12:34 PM UTC
Thanks all for the nice comments!
Quoted Text
How did you calculate the thickness of the cheek modification ?
Great job
Actually it's just a hit and miss calculation -- if it's too thick, thin it down, if it's too thin, add more putty. I used my M4 Early Sherman's cheek bulge applique armor as reference.
I also checked this
picAs another reference.
Quoted Text
What is the red stuff you used to make the periscope guards?
That's just stretched sprue left from my Gundam kits. All Gundam kits have sprues molded in color. I used it so that the guards would be very obvious
Quoted Text
One small suggestion, that is if you haven't already passed this point Try thinning out the track skids that sit on top of the main bogey housing
Ok noted. Will do it today. How thin should it go?
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: May 01, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 01:22 PM UTC
Hi Ralph,
I would like to build some sand bag racks like you have there. What are yours constructed out of?
"Da Kiwi Kid"
Andrew Barclay
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 07:06 AM UTC
[quote]Thanks all for the nice comments!
Quoted Text
How did you calculate the thickness of the cheek modification ?
Great job
Actually it's just a hit and miss calculation -- if it's too thick, thin it down, if it's too thin, add more putty. I used my M4 Early Sherman's cheek bulge applique armor as reference.
I also checked this
picAs another reference.
Thanks Ralph, I´ll try to do it in my next M4A3.
"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few"
Winston Spencer Churchill
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 08:57 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
What is the red stuff you used to make the periscope guards?
That's just stretched sprue left from my Gundam kits. All Gundam kits have sprues molded in color. I used it so that the guards would be very obvious
Wow, Ralph, that's impressive! You can give us all some sprue-stretching lessons!
Keep it up!
Bob K
Owner, Kansas City FullMetalJacket -- two-time Armorama FFL Champions! 2005 and 2006
God Bless the Troops
Sero Sed Serio
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 05:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Ralph,
I would like to build some sand bag racks like you have there. What are yours constructed out of?
Hi Andy! These are prefabricated sprues used for bi-planes and WWII aircrafts. They come in various thickness. Sorry, but I forgot the brand of it.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 05:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Wow, Ralph, that's impressive! You can give us all some sprue-stretching lessons!
Keep it up!
Thanks Hollowpoint! Don't worry! Article is on it's way.
--==Shonen Red==--
-=Filipino Modeler=-
