Hi Guys. I built TamiyaŽs old GAZ67B on friday. I built it OOB, but felt the need to experiment a little also. I tried to simulate the dirt that builds up in the wheel arches. I also aquired some Mr. surfacer which I played about a bit with also.
The airbrushed GAZ can be seenhere.
In the first picture, the joints in the fender have been eliminated by first brushing on Mr. Surfacer 500 (MS500), sanding, Mr. Surfacer 1000 (MS1000) and a final light sanding. This stuff dries quickly and is great. I also brushed it on, in different places to join any gaps that might be visible.
I also painted some MS500 under the fenders to simulate dirt build up in the arches. As it self-levels while wet, it didnŽt give me the effect I was looking for. I remembered some granite paint I bought in a hobby shop for dios and decided to use it. It paints on easily on top of the Mr. Surfacer but not too well to un-primed surface.
All I know about this grafite paint is written on the bottle ... next to nothing then!
The bottles I bought
I painted it in different amounts to see if there was any difference after painting.
After airbrushing with a earthy brown only
What I like about this idea is, painting the dirt on with washes and pastels only, is not really realistic. This gives a true 3D effect. The granuals are really fine so it can be painted to still show the contours of the wheel arch. As there are usually horrible ejection points in this area, it can easily cover these with a second layer. Both MS and this granite paint (acrylic) dry really quickly so more layers could be added.
When painted on thinnly, it does look too stoney and not smooth like dirt/dust build-up. A coat of MS500 over it could be the answer to this.
Thought somebody might find this idea interesting or useful.
It certainly is where large wheel-arches on soft skins are concerned, as so much is visible. IŽll be trying this out again,and will update this post with future results! Cheers!
Hosted by Darren Baker
Wheel arch dirt build-up ... method(?)
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 06:02 AM UTC
DaveCox
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 06:10 AM UTC
That looks great Frank, you can use some putties or plastic wood as well.
Paul
Kharkiv, Ukraine / Україна
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 06:48 AM UTC
Thanks Frank, it looks very good - I will try that sometime.
Simon
Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 07:12 AM UTC
Nice work. Good idea I'll use some day. It looks great too.
Simon
Simon
generalrazo
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 08:18 AM UTC
It really does produce a realistic effect...I like it. I'd like to try it sometime...thanks for sharing.
Eddie
Eddie
ekke
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 08:24 AM UTC
Looks nice indeed.
I just have one question: do the particles of that paint stick really tight to the surface after drying?
I ask because i don't have the possibility to use an airbrush, and I'm afraid that all the small dirt particles will stick to my brush.
Best wishes,
ekke
I just have one question: do the particles of that paint stick really tight to the surface after drying?
I ask because i don't have the possibility to use an airbrush, and I'm afraid that all the small dirt particles will stick to my brush.
Best wishes,
ekke
Pilgrim
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 08:36 AM UTC
That looks really effective and straight forward - just the kind of modelling techique I like!
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 08:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I just have one question: do the particles of that paint stick really tight to the surface after drying?
I ask because i don't have the possibility to use an airbrush, and I'm afraid that all the small dirt particles will stick to my brush.
Its in acrylic paint so allwashes away from the brush with plain tapwater. I wouldrecomend using only old brushes for jobs like this anyway! Cheers.
Thanks to all for your comments!
ekke
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 09:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Its in acrylic paint so allwashes away from the brush with plain tapwater. I wouldrecomend using only old brushes for jobs like this anyway! Cheers.
No I mean: do they stick to the vehicle well or will I remove all the nice looking mud-splatters when I overpaint it in brown with a normal brush?
Sorry for the misunderstanding,
ekke
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 09:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Its in acrylic paint so allwashes away from the brush with plain tapwater. I wouldrecomend using only old brushes for jobs like this anyway! Cheers.
No I mean: do they stick to the vehicle well or will I remove all the nice looking mud-splatters when I overpaint it in brown with a normal brush?
Sorry for the misunderstanding,
ekke
Hi ekke
No problem ... as much my fault.
I wouldnŽt think painting over this would lift it. I havent thought of this either, as I use an airbrush. Normal painting with a fresh paint should be Ok. I guess the normal rules of using an acrlyic thinner would apply, if you decided to use washes. I plan on drybrushing this and saw nothing during handling that would lead me to believe that it would come off easily. IŽll add more to this thread when I get that far!
ex-royal
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 10:03 AM UTC
Hi Frank,
YOu have a great idea here.. any chance you can write it up for us in article format and we can publish it? Thanks buddy.
Cheers,
Bryan
YOu have a great idea here.. any chance you can write it up for us in article format and we can publish it? Thanks buddy.
Cheers,
Bryan
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 07:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Frank,
You have a great idea here.. any chance you can write it up for us in article format and we can publish it? Thanks buddy.
Cheers,
Bryan
Sure thing Bryan. IŽll wait though until I get the "finished" pictures, when this is weathered. But IŽll definately send it in. Thanks for the compliment
Vadster
Tennessee, United States
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Posted: Monday, June 27, 2005 - 01:06 AM UTC
That's a pretty good idea, Frank. i did the same thing on my 234/1, but I used tea leaves & dirt. Krylon Primer bound everything in place.