I started building the Trumpeteer KV2 at 11:30 this morning.Its 5:00 pm
More later.This is a super kit,for OOBing
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Hosted by Jacques Duquette
Sunday KV2 build
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 09:17 AM UTC
kglack43
Alabama, United States
Joined: September 18, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 09:21 AM UTC
great start to another fine build by the Karlmiester
Grumpyoldman
Consigliere
Florida, United States
Joined: October 17, 2003
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Joined: October 17, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 09:23 AM UTC
Looks good so far....
CARL!!! Printing up dollars bills is not legal....... :-) :-)
CARL!!! Printing up dollars bills is not legal....... :-) :-)
Diablo
Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: February 01, 2004
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Joined: February 01, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 09:24 AM UTC
hi carl,looks good so far,i have this kit on order and after seeing this i really want it here asap :-) .any problems or errors i should know of.??. keep us posted.i also ordert the KV-1.
Erik67
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 09:37 AM UTC
Looking good, Carl
How is the quality of the kit?
Erik
How is the quality of the kit?
Erik
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 12:51 PM UTC
It is very high quality molding.Assembly is a breeze.Everything fit.My only mod is copper wire hand rails,because the kit ones are attached to the sprue in mid rail.
And now onto the turret.
I used Model Master Russian Armor green as the base coat.
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And now onto the turret.
I used Model Master Russian Armor green as the base coat.
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Sticky
Vermont, United States
Joined: September 14, 2004
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Joined: September 14, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 02:30 PM UTC
Looks like a nice kit. Good job so far. That turret is so big I think you better give it a good post shading!
WeWillHold
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 17, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 02:33 PM UTC
Lord C.
Great pics, very sharp, and it looks like a very fine kit. Nice clean job of construction, no glue smears, tight fit/joints, and your wire grabs look really good. Gotta love that WW2 Russian armor--big---beefy.
This is good work here.
Please keep us posted.
Steve
Great pics, very sharp, and it looks like a very fine kit. Nice clean job of construction, no glue smears, tight fit/joints, and your wire grabs look really good. Gotta love that WW2 Russian armor--big---beefy.
This is good work here.
Please keep us posted.
Steve
jackhammer81
Nebraska, United States
Joined: August 12, 2003
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Joined: August 12, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 03:48 PM UTC
Carl, that beast looks great. I have been wondering about picking it up at the lhs and now I think I will have too. Yours looks to sweet. Thanks for swaying me Cheers Kevin
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 10:56 PM UTC
Ok,I will be using the kit supplied link and lengths tonight.A pair of band style track are also included.I will be doing some light dusting overall,so that may act as a "post shading".Time will tell.
armorguy
United States
Joined: June 25, 2004
KitMaker: 269 posts
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Joined: June 25, 2004
KitMaker: 269 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 06:37 AM UTC
Looking good so far! The Russian armor has really got me interested lately.
The Model Master Russian Armor Green is semi-gloss, is it not? Does that end up working out okay once you have your flat coat on? What else are you planning for paint? Are you going to put another color on top of it?
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures!
The Model Master Russian Armor Green is semi-gloss, is it not? Does that end up working out okay once you have your flat coat on? What else are you planning for paint? Are you going to put another color on top of it?
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures!
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 12:53 PM UTC
Here is tonight's progress.I removed seam lines from the roadwheels,they all had them,and glued them in place.I am leaving the sprockets and Idlers unglued,so I can make the trscks,and slide them into place.I have only the inner halves of the support rollers on,and will add the outers after the track is in place.
The Russian armor is a bit semi gloss,but I live with dullcoat... (++) (++)
The Russian armor is a bit semi gloss,but I live with dullcoat... (++) (++)
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 01:24 PM UTC
Im guessing those climbing bars didnt come with the kit? Those looks like staples and if so, i have to say thats very creative.
Great start too.
As my next model will pretty much be my first model that i use my brand new airbrush on, i would be interested to see at which stage of the contruction do you begin airbrushing the entire hull.
Please do post more progressive photos!
Great start too.
As my next model will pretty much be my first model that i use my brand new airbrush on, i would be interested to see at which stage of the contruction do you begin airbrushing the entire hull.
Please do post more progressive photos!
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 01:48 PM UTC
The kit comes with plastic "steps" but the connection point is 1/2 way across the part,and it is better to make them out of some copper wire I have. (++) (++)
copilot
Istanbul, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: January 18, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 05:48 AM UTC
Carl It's going very well.
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 09:43 AM UTC
Looks great so far Carl. Another nice clean build. Im really tempted to get this... all write-ups, so far have been good.
Hope you dont have problems fixing the indy links now that the fenders are in place! Keep us posted.
Hope you dont have problems fixing the indy links now that the fenders are in place! Keep us posted.
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 01:13 PM UTC
Fixing the indy link and lengths won't be too hard.I have left the outer support roller wheels off so that can be a slide in.I am contemplating fitting the track around the sprocket and idler from the solid length on top , to the end of the solid length on the bottom.my glue locations will be from the individuals to the top length .Another glue point will be at either end of the lower long length under the roadwheels.
I will assemble the little individuals and just tape them at either end,to get the count right.You will see.
As for tonight,my M4A3E8(105) ate up some build time getting PE put on tools.
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I will assemble the little individuals and just tape them at either end,to get the count right.You will see.
As for tonight,my M4A3E8(105) ate up some build time getting PE put on tools.
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TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 12:35 PM UTC
ARRRRRGH!
Knockouts!
This is my breakdown of track sections
and how they look,but not connected...
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Knockouts!
This is my breakdown of track sections
and how they look,but not connected...
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airwarrior
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
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Joined: November 21, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 12:50 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gotta love that WW2 Russian armor--big---beefy.
And OD!!
:-)
nice tank carl...... And you didn this is one sitting? Pffff... I coulkd have done that in 3 hours, and be in the process of weathering.... :-)
graeme
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 17, 2005
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Joined: July 17, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 12:55 PM UTC
very nice i love the tracks they look very good were they individual or did they snap together like the dragon ones? all in all very good keep posting.
Graeme
Graeme
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 01:56 PM UTC
Greame,
The track are links and lengths.
The top run is one complete section,from just short of the idler to just before the sprocket.
The lower run under the roadwheels is anothe section.There are 2 3 block units for inbetween the roadwheels and the sporckets/idlers.Also there are seperate links to make curvy transitions at the sprockets and idlers.
And,
They all had knockouts. (++) (++)
The track are links and lengths.
The top run is one complete section,from just short of the idler to just before the sprocket.
The lower run under the roadwheels is anothe section.There are 2 3 block units for inbetween the roadwheels and the sporckets/idlers.Also there are seperate links to make curvy transitions at the sprockets and idlers.
And,
They all had knockouts. (++) (++)