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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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Accurate Armour Trakpax. How to ........
winchweight
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 30, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 10:00 PM UTC
I have received the AA 15.5" Cromwell tracks for my Charioteer. How do I assemble these short lengths into a curved length of track. Mainly what glue to use and how to bend them to shape?
Drader
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Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: July 20, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 10:28 PM UTC
I never quite got around to using the AA tracks for my Whippet....

However, since they're resin, use the normal CA/superglue. As for bending, I suggest either the hot water or hairdryer approach. Have a look in this month's Military Modelling for a Sherman build which features fitting AA tracks for some ideas.

WARNING - using a hairdryer near plastic will also soften the plastic as well as the resin, so be careful when bending.
DaveCox
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 11, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 10:30 PM UTC
My usual technique on these is to use CA glue to cement the top run onto the wheels using complete lengths of track; so that it overhangs as far as possible at the front & rear. Once this is completely set, use a hair dryer on moderate-low heat to soften the track (one end at a time!) and GENTLY bend it round section by section. Once this is done let it cool and harden again, then use the remaining track to fill in the gap at the bottom.
Sounds complicated, but it does work - I've used this track on a Cromwell, three shermans and a Churchill and it look good when it's on there.
Grumpyoldman
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Joined: October 17, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 10:31 PM UTC
I used these once, so I'm by no means an expert, but I found the easiest way was to place them in some hot water (NOT BOILING) for a few minutes, which softened the resin nicely, and then gently shape around the drive sprocket, and idler wheel. Letting each section cool, they hold their shape well, but still remain flexible enough to remove if needed to be removed for painting, etc. The sections in-between were done the same way, working in the track sag.

I ended up with basically two sections to fit together in the end, an upper going around the top run, and drive sprocket, and a lower going around the idler wheel and lower run.

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