Here area few pics of my mostly scratchbuilt T34-76 interior I'm building for an upcoming Osprey book. I was hoping you guys could point out any obvious flaws or areas I might be able to improve.
Thanks for your help,
Mike
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For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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T34 Interior
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2006 - 04:50 PM UTC
Drader
Wales, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2006 - 05:00 PM UTC
I'll be in line for the book!! I'm glad Osprey are doing a new one as their old T-34 modelling book was seriously duff.
Can hardly tell the pictures of your model from the ones of 'Sniper' on Tankmaster.
E.g.
http://www.thetankmaster.com/IMAGES/AFV/sniper/T34_SNIPER10.jpg
Can hardly tell the pictures of your model from the ones of 'Sniper' on Tankmaster.
E.g.
http://www.thetankmaster.com/IMAGES/AFV/sniper/T34_SNIPER10.jpg
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 06:00 PM UTC
Oh hey, I forgot to mention that indeed this model depicts "Sniper", the Model 1943 recovered from a swamp and returned to running condition by Kubinka. It is 1/35 scale and I modeled it as it was being prepper for restoration. I used Mosin Alexandr's terrific photographs as reference material. The interior was airbrushed with various shades of Vallejo Model Color, then weathered with oils and MIG Pigments to acheive that dirty and "not so rusty" look.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Drader
Wales, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 06:07 PM UTC
About the only nit-picky comment i would have is that the stub axles in the fighting compartment look a little short compared to the photo, though that might just be the angle from which the shot was taken.
It looked too much like Sniper to be anything else really
It looked too much like Sniper to be anything else really
Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 01:04 AM UTC
That has to be the most awesome interior I've ever seen.
I can not fault this in anyway , perfect..
that gearbox looks fantastic , the way you've got that distressed cast aluminium effect..... well.....
Can I have a signed 1st edition?
I can not fault this in anyway , perfect..
that gearbox looks fantastic , the way you've got that distressed cast aluminium effect..... well.....
Can I have a signed 1st edition?
Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 01:15 AM UTC
My only criticism will be when you shut that interior away when you put the hull on. That is to good not to see. Excellent work, all that wiring really sets it off.
Andy (++)
Andy (++)
slodder
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 01:46 AM UTC
Wow - Fantastic. I would leave it there if you didn't say you were publishing this. Since you are I put on my rivet counters hat and investigated the whole sniper tank
In looking at this photo
http://www.thetankmaster.com/IMAGES/AFV/sniper/T34_SNIPER09.jpg
and comparing it to your 4th one - the motor in the front offcenter left looks to be to close to the U shaped deal
But in looking at the #10 photo in the background it looks ok - I guess it's the photo angle.
Nope - I got nothin'
In looking at this photo
http://www.thetankmaster.com/IMAGES/AFV/sniper/T34_SNIPER09.jpg
and comparing it to your 4th one - the motor in the front offcenter left looks to be to close to the U shaped deal
But in looking at the #10 photo in the background it looks ok - I guess it's the photo angle.
Nope - I got nothin'
MrMox
Aarhus, Denmark
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 02:52 AM UTC
Only thing I might see - apart from a great piece of work - is that theres no place to fasten the batteries. I might be wrong, but I seem to remember some sort of metalframe ... ?
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 04:47 AM UTC
Hey guys ... thanks for the kind words. This is the first real model I've built in about five years so it's nice to hear that I'm headed in the right direction.
Jan - the batteries were indeed mounted on a frame, but according to my reference photos all that is left of those brackets are the two strips mounted on stub axles and the flanges perpindicular with the engine stand.
Andy - I'll see what I can do for a copy ...
Mike
Jan - the batteries were indeed mounted on a frame, but according to my reference photos all that is left of those brackets are the two strips mounted on stub axles and the flanges perpindicular with the engine stand.
Andy - I'll see what I can do for a copy ...
Mike
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 04:51 AM UTC
Too bad the interior will be mostly hidden when you complete the hull. It look great
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 05:05 AM UTC
Alan,
Actually, this particular subject will have the entire rear upper deck removed so you will be able to see straight thru from front to rear. The turret kind of hides some of the fighting compartment, but you can still catch glimpses through the drivers hole and openings in the firewall!
Thanks for your reply,
Mike
Actually, this particular subject will have the entire rear upper deck removed so you will be able to see straight thru from front to rear. The turret kind of hides some of the fighting compartment, but you can still catch glimpses through the drivers hole and openings in the firewall!
Thanks for your reply,
Mike
slodder
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 05:08 AM UTC
I'm guessing that some of what I believe are the vertical shock absorber 'tubes' are going to have the deck and turret mount covering them? 1st photo the 4 U shaped parts are what I'm talking about. I thought that was the plan - but with the comment of having some exposed raised the question.
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 05:28 AM UTC
Scott,
You are correct. The forward four suspension towers will be covered by the upper forward hull roof and turret ring, while the remaining four will be mostly exposed.
Mike
You are correct. The forward four suspension towers will be covered by the upper forward hull roof and turret ring, while the remaining four will be mostly exposed.
Mike
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 06:24 AM UTC
Thats some fantastic work on the interior Mike. The weld seams and the weathering is fantastic. I dont seem to see any obvious flaws as if there were any flaws, it would be hard to spot.
Looking forward to the book.
Looking forward to the book.
sgirty
Ohio, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 06:33 AM UTC
Hi, Holy Crap! So I sit here with my mouth hanging open. Some outstanding workmanship at the very least! The only question would be is when does this book come out. It will be a most welcomed addition in helping with the Trumpter 1/16 T34/85 sitting out in the garage with only the cannon and flywheel done--last summer I might ad ! Ha, ha!
Take care, Larry
Take care, Larry
SKurj
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, February 03, 2006 - 05:27 AM UTC
I see somethin... thats not a model.. I see no sign of glue anywhere...
or would a desk fan blow it all to bits?
I wanna know how to do that, especially when its painted!
or would a desk fan blow it all to bits?
I wanna know how to do that, especially when its painted!
tony55
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 08:57 PM UTC
That is absolutely stunning. Having just built Trumpeters 11/6th kit I can appreciate how much more detail you have in your build.
I would like to know more about the book. When? Where? How much? and like Andy I would like a signed copy please if possible.
Cheers
Tony
I would like to know more about the book. When? Where? How much? and like Andy I would like a signed copy please if possible.
Cheers
Tony
jointhepit
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
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Posted: Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 07:30 PM UTC
Is there still room for improvement????
I can't even think of making such a beauty!!
just display the T34 in pieces like in a museum
brilliant work!!
D-fens
I can't even think of making such a beauty!!
just display the T34 in pieces like in a museum
brilliant work!!
D-fens
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 08:06 PM UTC
It really is a stunning work. Kind of makes you put down the airbrush and look for another hobby. Absolutely great!
Splinty
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 08:09 PM UTC
How did you use the MIG Pigments to get those effects? I have just got a set of them and need some advice on how best to use them.
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 10:14 PM UTC
First, let me say thanks for all the kind comments! According to Osprey the T-34-76 book, which also includes work from Jorge Alvear, Mark Neville, Mig Jimenez and Adam Wilder, will be released in late September.
Joe - Mig's pigments are very easy to use. This model was my first experience with them and I found myself experimenting and getting all sorts of results. Mig recommends Humbrol Thinner to help the pigment adhere to the surface of the model. In the case of "Sniper" I first created a slurry of various pigments - mixing them with the Humbrol Thinner - and basically washed the painted interior of the model. I used several different shades of pigment, including mixing various colors to achieve the effect I wanted. This is where the experimentation comes into play. If I applied the pigment too heavily in any area I simply moistened the pigment and "moved" it elsewhere. This technique alone rendered some outstanding effects! One word of caution .... the pigments, when dry, will look markedly different than when wet. Once you gain a bit of experience with them you'll be able to account for this. After the diluted washes had all been applied I then worked my way around the interior using dry pigments of various contrasting shades to replicate grime, rust and other streaks.
HTH,
Mike Kirchoff
Joe - Mig's pigments are very easy to use. This model was my first experience with them and I found myself experimenting and getting all sorts of results. Mig recommends Humbrol Thinner to help the pigment adhere to the surface of the model. In the case of "Sniper" I first created a slurry of various pigments - mixing them with the Humbrol Thinner - and basically washed the painted interior of the model. I used several different shades of pigment, including mixing various colors to achieve the effect I wanted. This is where the experimentation comes into play. If I applied the pigment too heavily in any area I simply moistened the pigment and "moved" it elsewhere. This technique alone rendered some outstanding effects! One word of caution .... the pigments, when dry, will look markedly different than when wet. Once you gain a bit of experience with them you'll be able to account for this. After the diluted washes had all been applied I then worked my way around the interior using dry pigments of various contrasting shades to replicate grime, rust and other streaks.
HTH,
Mike Kirchoff
MCR
Arizona, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 02:30 PM UTC
I said it when I first saw the photos and I'll say it again now; this is about the best work I've seen on any 1/35 model let alone a T-34
You are the King Of Plastic, Mike!
Mark
You are the King Of Plastic, Mike!
Mark
james84
Roma, Italy
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 02:43 PM UTC
Very nice and realistic!
acebatau
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Posted: Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 01:33 AM UTC
Hi all, I am following Mike's steps and working on exact same project. But I need a link or actual pics of original tank T-34/76 Sniper with open engine bay and etc, becuase the links here seems to not working anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers!