hi there,

when assembling a figure (likke putting the arm to the chest ect..) i'm always left with a gap or a 'line' where the 2 pieces connect.
How do u get rid of this, so u get a nice figure without these things?


Thomas

Any type of filler putty will work, such as Squadron or Testors. If you use a thick CA glue like Zap-A-Gap, this will work as well. You could even use white glue, like Elmers to fill these.
To avoid these, dry fit the parts and sand the surfaces smooth, if you have to.

Try Mr. Surfacer 1000. Should do the trick if the gap is small.

Why not try either Tamiya's putty or a two part exopy putty?
Cheers and happy modelling!
Prato

Damn, I misunderstood the heading :-)

But yeah, sanding and dry-fitting should sort out most of the prob. If there's still a gap, I use white glue. It takes a while to dry too, so you can shape it a bit.

You didn't mention a specific scale, Thomas. And I approach a problem
with a "shoulder seam" differently for a 1:35th scale fig than for a 120mm
1:16th scale fig, naturally. Personally I think going to the trouble to use
a good two part epoxy putty is worth the trouble since once it dries it can
take so much more rough handling. Unlike green stuff, it won't pop out
of the seam once you start sanding it. When I use apoxy putty for seams
I have a tool made from a toothpick with the tip shaped like the tip of a
screwdriver, the end that screw in the screws, naturally. And it allows me
to get the putty in very small areas. I have water handy to apply very
sparingly from time to time to keep the putty from sticking to the tool or
to my fingers if I'm smoothing out the putty. With certain kind of uniforms
there is an actual seam where the two pieces of cloth, the shoulder and
the sleeve join together. If that is the case, after the area is ready for
paint, meaning my sanding and shaping chore is finished, I use an
X-acto knife to lightly scribe back in where that seam would be. Then
come the paint. Hope this long explanation . . . isn't too
boooooooorrrrrring. :-) :-)

For small seams on 1/35 scale figures, I like to use a thinner superglue applied with the cutting edge of an old scalpel blade. A gentle touch aided by capillary action usually works. Might have to use a couple of applications, don't go mad and blob it on as it has the potential to pool just where you don't want it to. Once set it reinforces the joint and can be sanded just like plastic.

For bigger gaps I'd use 2-part epoxy putty.

The line should be there on most figures, as it represents the sewn seam in the jacket between arm and body. A gap on the other hand, should not. Unfortunately, there are more often than not, small gaps to be taken hand off. The size of the gap usually dictates the method used for filling.
For small gaps, dry fitting and a little sanding is all it takes, to get a nice fit, as AL suggested. Another possibility is to cement both sides, and when they´re soft, squeeze them together. Some molten plastic will squeeze out, but should also fill the gap. When hardened again, this can be sanded to shape.
Bigger gaps, can be filled with superglue mixed with talcom powder, which is easier sanded than straight superglue. I prefer Humbrol putty. It can be placed roughly. After a few minutes, the excess can be removed with a cotton top dipped in (acetone free) nail polish remover. The rest can be sanded when hard.
When the gap is so big, that it almost needs resculpting to get the shape, or indeed if you have use arms from a different figure or are altering the pose of the arm, I use milliput. Push in themilliput and this can be formed with water dampened tools or a cotton top dipped in water. Can be sanded when hardened.
When needed, Mr. sufacer is a great tool. Mr.S 500 when it needs more filling or clean up, or Mr.1000 when just smoothing out the finished work. These two can be sanded after 20 minutes, and can be cleaned up directly with (acetone free) nail polish remover.