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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
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Mack NO project
Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
Joined: November 02, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 03:01 AM UTC
Here are some pictures I took of my current project - ADV Azimut's Mack NO truck.

I bought myself a new digi-camera for the holidays, and it takes some nice pics. I know should use a neutral back ground, but what the hey!?

Can anyone recommend ways to take off excess super glue? Seems I used too much in the grab handles of the tailgate. I looks worst in these photos than in real life, but it's bugging me.






I will update this as time permits.
Teacher
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: April 05, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 04:09 AM UTC
Hi, you have yourself a great kit there, but as you said, you really need to cut down on the amount of superglue you're using, and not just on the tailgate! If you want to remove the suerglue now that it's cured, I'm afraid you have no option but to pick at it with a scalpel blade.
For the rest of the build, get some superglue gel, you'll find it much more controllable. There is also a product called accelerator that can cure it immediately.......these would make a hell of a difference........try them!

Vinnie
ericadeane
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 07:13 AM UTC
Hi Mark: I'm with Vinnie. Your excess superglue will really take away from your final product -- it's the equivalent of seeing someones tube glue slopped over their model. I noted excess glue where the braces for the forward section of the cab, where the headlight grate attaches to its frame. You also have a serious alignment problem with your radiator -- it's throwing off the vac formed engine hood off -- I see a gap on the bottom of the left side hood panel.

I have the same kit and although I've put a lot of time into it, I've been stuck. So I can sympathize with you.

I almost exclusively use medium viscosity super glue(CA) I put a dab onto a slip of aluminum foil (for some reason it remains liquid longer there) and I apply the CA with a bit of wire or stretched sprue. In this way I control how much glue I apply.

As for repairing your tailgate handles, I would cut everything off and sand it smooth. Then, use some thin strips to replicate the handles. The real thing was not a tubular handle but about a scale inch wide.



For more photos go here:

http://www.tanxheaven.com/mackNO/mackNO.htm

For images from the Tech Manual, go here:
Ken Fortier's pictures

I live in Michigan too. Feel free to contact me offsite.

HTH, Roy
Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
Joined: November 02, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 08:17 AM UTC
Thanks Guys,

I really detest resin kits, but they don't make the great subject in plastic until AFTER you finish a resin one. That's one of those "rules of life" I guess.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Monday, December 11, 2006 - 01:45 AM UTC
Shaping up nicely, inspite of the excess CA, as Vinnie suggested some gentle and careful scraping will clean up the excess CA.

Built that kit many moons ago, back before I had a computer, but part of the old boring flood story. :-)
Jacques
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Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2006 - 07:20 PM UTC
Acetone (Fingernail polish remover) will have SOME effect on removing superglue, but usually weakens it all and you have to remove and start over.

It is also very good fro removing superglue from fingers, arms, hair, etc...ask me how I know.
Plasticat
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Idaho, United States
Joined: September 03, 2003
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2006 - 07:39 PM UTC
When I am assembling with super glue I use the accelerator to set the glue and then if there is any excess, I immediately dampen a cotton swab with some de-bonder and scrub the seam with it and the excess is taken away, leaving a clean seam. I doesn't seem to affect the rest of the joint, as I don't drench the area with the debonder. If you wait too long, the superglue cures too hard for the debonder to work well with, It can be done but it takes a lot of scrubbing with multiple swabs. The key is to take care of it as soon as you notice it. Of course, it is better to use less glue. But this is a good way of dealing with those unintentional "oops" moments. Works for me any way.

Shadowfax
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 03:58 AM UTC
Actually, after it sets for a day or two, you can just chip it off with an exact-o.

After removing the old round stock grab handles, I use candy coin foil wrapping to make these handles. It'll do.


Here are some shots after I laid down a dark brown base coat. I missed a few spots, but can pick them out later with a wash coat.

Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 03:42 AM UTC
I got around to painting the old Mack this weekend.

http://photos.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=21980

Take a gander, and enjoy other "master pieces".
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 05:27 AM UTC
Turned out really nice Mark.
How about a few more photos?
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 05:34 AM UTC
Looks good Mark.
Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 01:07 AM UTC
Well... one of the down sides to being a truck driver is not getting loads you want WHEN you want. The upside is, i got to work a little more on this model.

http://photos.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php/cat/18357

I managed to get some decals on today. I still need to find the "over fill" caution decals for the fuel tanks. Anybody have a line on where I can find them?

There are a LOT of flaws in this kit and my building of it... however, I am glad to be coming to the end of it.

The last set of photos will be all weathered up and finished. Not sure when I will get to that.

Enjoy, and thanks for all the input.
Mark L.
Shadowfax
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 06:38 AM UTC
Well, I finally finished it! 7 years in the making. For all the shortcomings, and my blunders, i think it came out OK.

The Mack NO Project - Completed

blindspot
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Ohio, United States
Joined: September 13, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 06:47 AM UTC
I think the overall effect is really cool. It captures the weary look typical of these vehicles. Nice job!
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 05:47 PM UTC
Mark, you've done an excellent job.

You should take some more photos and submit them for an On Display.
Maybe even consider writing and submitting an article on your build.
SGTJKJ
#041
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: July 20, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 06:52 PM UTC
Looks great!

Really cool weathering!
165thspc
#521
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 13, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 05:07 AM UTC
I know this is an old thread about the Mack NO's but I just discovered it recently.

Finished my Mack about 18 months ago. Managed to win a couple of Best Armor trophies and one Best of Show with it. Also took a gold medal at lasts year's AMPS National.

Working now on a couple of M23 Ammo Trailers for it to pull

Here is the link to a few photos:

http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t461/165thspc/
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