Here is my finished model of the Dragon JSU-122 and the paint steps used to get there, i added some PE fuel tank straps left over from a T34 build reworked to suit this vehicle, a tow cable, log and chain and a tarp plus a clear lense for the light.

The paint and weathering steps.

Step 1, a flat black primer followed by a base coat of MM dark green and MM leather for the tracks all applied with airbrush. a slight fading of the panels with lightened dark green.


step 2, a filter in the manner of a wash useing yellow ochre.


step 3, drybrushing of the tracks with "shadowed steel".


step 4, gloss coat and decals followed by another gloss coat to seal them in.


Step 5, wear and tear added using van dyke brown and a scrap of scouring pad.


step 6, a wash of van dyke brown.


step 7, streaks added using black and white oil paints dotted on with a toothpick then brushed downwards with a thinner damp brush until almost gone.


step 8, a mud coloured wash added all over.


step 9, pigments drybrushed on the tracks and running gear followed by dullcote and another drybrushing all over with shadowed steel.


step 10, tools painted and a tow cable added plus a log and chain and tarp then finished off with some more pigments and spot washes here and there to blend it all together and shes done.
















Thanks for looking in and all comments are welcome.

Ron.

Man thats awsome i wana make one so bad as ive just got into making russian armor.
...
lol i looked at the first picture befor reading and said to myself what a bland model for the ledgend biffa...
Then started reading.
Dont judge a book by its cover ai.

Really great nice to show the progress pics very instructive
much appreciate
seb

I did the same thing

Terrific work Ron and nice step by step.

One of my favourite late war vehicles

When a plastic tank looks like, its actually made from metal, and has a heavy appearance, its a winner. Great finish Ron ... love the weathering. Thats one mean model!!!!

Many thanks guys im really happy you like it , i do enjoy building russian vehicles there is so much you can do with them weathering wise and i love the unrefined roughness of them. I like the new home for all the ruskie stuff as well very nice.

Ron.

Thank you for posting this. It is educational. The step by step photos are great!

Ron- Looks great !! Super job all around!! Thanks for sharing your build.....Cheers-

Rob-

MiG-17

Green is not boring
Green is not boring

If you feel the need to add more filth, the circular fitting in the front left hand corner of the casemate roof is a filler cap for the fuel tank

David

Looks great!!

A very nice step by step approach. I will try the same on my next Russian vehicle.

Looks great, love the SBS too.
Top marks, well done!

James

Very Nice work, love how it all turned out. And thanks for the step-by-step, that is always nice to see no matter how experienced all of us are. Greatly appreciated.

What pigments do you use?

What is the shadowed steel color (have not heard of that)?

What do you use to apply your pigments (Large flat brush, small brush, open cap of pigments-dump it on )?

Good show.

Thank you all once more for the comments they are appreciated,
David i had to save some filth for my next build lol truth is i wasnt aware of that fact so i appreciate that,

Jacques, for the first application of pigment which requires lots of coverage i use a product called dry temp made by palmer paints which is basically craft paint without water added and cost only $3.99 for a Ib tub then i use Bragdon Pigments for the more select application as for the brushes i just use my old detail brushes that are now flared to dab them on then a small stiff brush for scrubbing them off again.
The "shadowed steel" is the Reaper "master series" and i use a big stiff brush to very dryly dry brush it on and it gives a very nice polished worn look i emphised very dryly if you see it go on it is too heavy.

Thanks again all, Ron.

Beautiful job. Been waiting to see you finish this one.

I love the model! I just finished a KV-1C and I really struggled with trying to add wear and tear like sratches chipped paint. I'll try your method on my next model. Could you describe it in more detail. I know you stated that use van dyke brown but if you could elaborate on how exactly you apply it and whether you thin it at all before applying it would help alot.

This is a fantastic job, and great weathering and looks like a real monster

Gregor

You've cranked out another winner Ron, very impressive work.

Ron,

Very nice end result. Thanks for sharing, and especially the step-wise progression. Very helpful in understanding how it all comes together!

That's just perfect. Really has that look of weight and substance that convince you that you're looking at a metal object and not a styrene kit.

I really liked the step-by-step photo journal. Seeing the transformation from simple green to ultra-convincing masterpiece is exciting and very useful. One of the "best post ever" candidates I think!

Great job and I enjoyed the step by step presentation.

Thank you

A very nice job! I really appreciate the step-by-step photos on the finishing. It really helps to understand the build up of the weathering.
David

I did like the format you used for the step by step for the weathering. It is amazing how you can take a plastic looking model and turn it into a soemthing llike that.

Thank you for sharing!

Amazing! It looks like real metal!

You should submit this as a feature article. I think it would have a good chance of being posted.

BTW when I saw the first picture, I thought it was of the finished model. That didn't last long, though!

Excellent SBS Ron, a perfect weathering 101, plenty for us all to learn from.

I really think you should, Ron. Maybe even as part of the Feature article competition.

Just thinking...