I have to disagree, having built Bronco, Tamiya, Italeri, Dragon, Monogram, Miniart (Bantam) and Heller Jeeps. The Bronco Jeeps are certainly the best on the market now-- if you can find them, followed by Tamiya. Cost wise, Tamiya is no doubt the best value for the $$, as Bronco is pretty steep (but you get what you pay for too). VR, Russ[/quote] OK, what I meant to say is the best one in the market considering the price, build-ability, and accuracy. We definitely can use more jeeps regardless!

To All Who posted "rebuttals" [ ] to my earlier post regarding the "unseen details" of these new Jeeps, once they're completed: a. Did I, or did I not state something to this effect: "So now, I'm going to eat my own words..." b. Did I, or did I not mention that I would "PROBABLY buy one or two of these new TAKOM Jeeps", pending as yet unwritten build-reviews..? c. Did I or did I not mention that "I will gladly spend a small fortune on detailing-up a kit, even if said kit is already detail-packed"..? d. Did I or did I not mention that "I APPLAUD TAKOM", for coming out with these new 1/35 WWII US Jeeps..? e. Anyone who is familiar with my posts, both recently AND prior to my "medical leave from this site" should know that I'm a "detail nut". I detail my "Soft-skins" inside and out, IF the detail can be seen; I won't bother with putting "junk" into a "closed" Glove Box, for example... Don't even ask me about the way I will go to extra lengths in detailing models representing my other interests in different scales. We're only discussing 1/35 scale, so I'm not going to go "OFF TOPIC" at this point... f. Did I, or did I not mention something to the effect of, "Let's hope that TAKOM will continue to produce WWII US Soft-skins, and maybe some Armor as well"..? Lastly, g. I DID build and detail one of my "old" 1/35 TAMIYA Jeeps "inside and out" with A LOT of resin bits and pieces and I also used an old ABER PE set, which IMO, is still probably the best PE set that one can get for any 1/35 WWII US Jeep. I scratch-built A LOT of stuff for this model, using an old WWII-vintage US Jeep Tech Manual and several books pertaining to the subject at hand for my references. I even went to the extent of adding my own Brake Lines, Exhaust Pipe Clamps, Shift Linkage, Gas, Clutch and Brake Pedals with their "appropriate" Linkages, Rear Brake Cables and other minutiae. I tell ya, I REEEALLY WENT NUTS with this project, and I HAD FUN doing it. But once I was done, I gave pause to reflect upon all of that extra work. Was it reeeally worth it, when I finally put this little critter behind glass in one of my display cases..? The answer I came up with was an almost inaudible "No"... Once I complete a model and it goes into one of my display cases, I almost NEVER take it back out again- ACCIDENTS DO HAPPEN... And then I pondered upon this: "WHO is EVER going to look at my collections besides me..?" I happen to live in a very rural area, where people have very different interests from mine. It was for MY OWN SATISFACTION that I "went nuts" when it came to detailing my models. I will probably continue to detail my stuff, but in the last few years, I've only gone to the extent of detailing what can READILY BE SEEN. There is no one around that will criticize my work anyway, and I'm not going to live forever. I came VERY CLOSE to not making it last Spring so my priorities in general, have changed... Thanks for reading...

If the tool and die people haven't finished the molds yet. I hope its suggested to put the WILLYS script across the rear panel. Just like Bronco put the Ford script on their Jeep kit Dave M

The Willys script is only appropriate for an early Willys jeep, before mid-'42. After that, the Army did not allow Willys or Ford to add their name to the body of their jeeps. Most of the Willys script jeeps also had the welded grill that early Willys had as well. An early Willys would be a cool version to model in plastic. Script on rear Welded grill

Notice the steering wheels? The black thick looking wheel is an early type common on the slat grilled Willys (welded grill), while the thin spoke is the most common type from 1942 on. In the cads of the kit the emergency brake shown is a later type, making the frame a late war Jeep, which would have the thin spoke wheel. For the trivia fans, the trademark Jeep grill was not developed by Willys, it was developed by Ford, because Henry thought the slat grill was too costly to make.

I thought the Willys script would be nice cause there are a couple 3D printed slat grills out. I have purchased both of them. One is about a 32nd of an inch to long I found out the other one looks to be right on I've yet to mount it to the body. With the Willys script molded into the rear panel if you don't want a script jeep just sand it off easier than applying PE script. Dave M

There was a set by Lymes Models that included a resin rear panel with the Willys script and a laser-cut paper slat grill. I used this set to build my Slat-Grilled Early Willys MB a few years ago.

There was a set by Lymes Models that included a resin rear panel with the Willys script and a laser-cut paper slat grill. Gino I remember that build of yours very nice. These 3D printed slat grills are really nice. Accept like I said one is a 32nd of an inch to long. I got lined up with the angle of the fenders and the hood stuck up in the front. Sanded the fenders top were the grill set got the hood to set on the fenders,put the body on the frame body stuck up from the frame had to cut some of the grill away from the frame. The other grill no issues at all.. The one that didn't give me any issues I got through a vender called panzer vs tank they come in 1/35 and 1/24 scale. I wonder if that back panel could be 3D printed. Dave M

Heller's effort was based on a Hotchkiss, though being a forty-year old kit, it's not up to current standards. Still. it had clear headlights, something nearly unknown for military kits in the '70's.