Well, there you go. I'm still waiting for my Reset, so I'll be issued the Mk II's. I'm still using the Mk I, Mod 0's, and they are getting a tad wonky as it is! Supply is out of replacements, and just keep issuing accessories to correct deficiencies...;-)

C

Hey John,

Thanks for your comments, like I said earlier,the slat armor supprt arms' were tough! But then, I think the hardest part about any build--is doing it the 1st time, it gets easier with practice, or at least I hope so ..as I intend to build all the Stryker variants in due time.


What do you have - a grizzly bear cub?!

But seriously they really are great companions aren't they? I can't see myself modelling without her by my side.



Heh heh you really made me Chuck-led .

Hi Guys, before I put out my hair ............. Does anyone have close up photos of the wiring for the front lights on the extention ? (not hull based) Pleasssseeee

Amazing Build. I don't know how I missed this one. I will be taking tips from yours as I build my MGS. I may have pictures but they aren't close ups but I'll see what I can find. Check my build out here as well. It'll help me tons. But on those pictures!

Thank You Sean,

I hope I can get those wiring for the lights sorted out.

I am following your build, in fact I am doing so for a lot of fine work going on.. But I usually only post when I can something to contribute. You are however inspiring me to work on a MGS slat armor version...

Guys, hope someone can advise..

There's a lot of photoetch straps to be used for securing the Gear,MRE boxes etc.. for the side stowage baskets and throughout the hull...
Would you think it's best to glued the straps down partially at one point ( leaving the gear off) and then Prime and Paint... Or add the straps after the main painting of the Stryker is done, and then paint the straps?

Also,does anyone have the photos I asked about the wiring for the lights?

Thanks

Nice kit,
get with Bob Buriks here on armorama, i gave him a bunch of pictures of the various headlight mounts and wirings this time last year, if he doesnt have them. i can get some in a week or so from my friends in country. i am headed to afghan right now or i would send the ones i gave bob to you.

Thank you Michael, that'll be great I'll pm Bob and let you you.

Stay safe over there, my dad just went back to Jalalabad, and he says it's as bad as ever... but then you proabably already know that.

I have exactly what you need. Send me your email address.

EXCELLENT>>>> [email protected]

THANK YOU

I realized I still had your email address from earlier this year. Pics have been emailed. Hope they help.

Got the pics Robert, they are great! Thanks!.
Let me see if I'm going on the right track...


1 wire from the hull goes into a thick ribbed tube which goes to the bottom frame of the headlight mount.
This thick ribbed tube also has another 2 wires coming out of and they are tied along the slat support bar and goes to the rear frame of the orange light.

(Or there are 2 wires from the hull, 1 going into the ribbed tube and headlight mount. The other wire form the hull - splits to 2 wires that go along the slat support bar...to the orange light)

From the headlight mount there's another ribbed tube that has 1 wire that goes to yet another ribbed tube which seems to have a bunch of wires colied up and goes to the middle area of the back frame of the orange light)

I think the thicker one splits up. See the latest email for more thorough explanation.

Robert always saving the day

Roger that, I'll sort it out and post once ready.

Thanks Guys!

Nick,

I posted a question for you on my blog. Could you answer for me? It would help alot to have your answer there for reference. It's regarding all that PE haha.

Sure Sean, soon as I can..Happy new year...!

This is a great build Nick!

Looks fantastic and that PE slat is awesome. I don't envy you having to make that slat though, sure looks time consuming!

Nick
I did a search for the Solder Pro70 and by the looks of your results it does the job. Of all the tips you have used with the SP which do you find the most useful for the slat and general PE or do you used different tips for different things?
Thanks
Bill

Some tips and my 2 cents...

Thanks Jon,
IMHO, the Slat is just as time consuming as working with basic PE sets to detail up most kits. It is more the repetition and preparation that bores me... But once you get the hang of it, it's pretty quick and easy. The key word here is PREPARATION, do this right and you're on your way.
IF you worry about supergluing those large sheets of photoetch additional armor and those photoetch support mounts/bars...scratch build them with styrene sheet and bars instead.

The other factor is alignment, you've got to look ahead and note that the position of the support mounts will make or break the final assemble of the finished individual slat armor sections.

Bill,
I bought the SP with only the blowtorch and default solder tip. I think that's enough for the job. I used the solder tip for small or individual or easy parts, and the blowtorch for main sections.
I did not solder everything. And personally, I don;t like playing with HOT stuff, so if your Models aren't travelling much...Why not use a combination of super glue--thin and medium. The medium is thicker and will give a "soldered" look once all the painting's done.

The only reason I used soldering in the first place is for a stronger bond as compared to superglue... Since this Stryker will be travelling 10,000 miles to it;s owner when complete.
I initially started with superglue but it failed "my structural intergrity tests"
I want to point out that the support mounts on the (resin) hull is actually glued with the thinnest styrene sheet. Superglued the sheet to the hull and to the support then liquid glued and fused the sheets. ..a very strong bond!

But if you must solder, than there are guys on this forum that has more experience than me regarding the SP "tips".

Nick
Many thanks for your reply. I can see your point combining the two and I'd like to try it, I like the idea of pre- positioning and then attaching using solder. I am using Gaitor glue for positioning time and it works well but for big structure like slat modules solder makes lots of sense....now to learn how to.
Thanks
Bill

Yes for big stuff, soldering would be best, solder or blow torch around the edges/perimeter. Clamping the parts (say around the mid area) would be good to ensure they don't move at the moment of soldering...cause the heat may shift the parts and you'll end up with misalignment.
If the parts are difficult to position and clamp, use a bit of superglue at the mid area, then clamp. Although the heat from soldering will melt the superglue..no issue since it's just for positioning.

Also, look for the finest soldering lead and a good flux. Sandpaper the areas to be soldered.
If you can't find thin lead..use regular, but cut small pieces instead.

Good luck

BTW, I tried Gator glue, but for some reason the glue don't work..maybe the batch wasn't good or too thin or I didn't do it right. Gonna try it again.

Wait! Nick, Gator Glue for me has worked best in the presence of plastics and small amounts at that. So when assembling my PE set for the stryker, I almost exclusively use gator glue on small contact points, i.e. the blots and CA on larger surfaces.

Roger that Sean, I will try it out on my other Strykers.

BTW, I will get some more tips up on your posts once I wrap up some of my work.