Wow Ryan. This model looks like it weighs as much as the real thing. It looks huge. Very impressive job do far.

Matt

man dude, that is looking awesome! Ill be really curious to see how those numbers come out looking under some paint. I just might have to get some.
Andy

Ryan,

Some great work you've done to that Pershing. I'll have to bookmark it for my entry for the Tank Overhaul Campaign (I'm rebuilding my old T26 into the Super Pershing). So what's in the orange box, just the old T26 kit plus some figures and new tracks?

Keep up the great work! Cheerio!
Stef

Stef,

I have not seen older issue of this Kit, it looks like the figs have been added as well as parts to make the Korean war version.

The WWII version has the indi links while the KW version comes with a nice set of DS tracks.

Ryan

Hello all, still with me?

As stated before the tank I'm modeling requires the indi link track included in the kit. I developed a system of using a link and length process to assemble the runs. My idea is to assemble top and bottom units on each side to make painting easier, plus the lower run is "finished" well above the lower edge of the sand shields so any mismatch or misalignment above will be completly hidden. I hate sand shields on a AFV, but in this case they may hide a multitude of sins!

The links where rough and it took a fair amount of time to carefully clip them fron the sprue then clean them up using small files, sand paper and sanding sticks. Every link rewards you with (2) ejector pin marks and I tried to use the ones that were least visible marks on the very visible lower run. I used Tamiya Surface Primer to fill the marks.

After the needed links were added up and positioned against a straight edge, I sparingly used Tamiya Thin cement to bond them together. The curved runs were allowed to set up a few minutes before wrapping them around the sprocket or road wheel to end up wit the desired curvature.

On to the pics...





This chore should be over soon, then I can shoot the first licks of paint on the running gear so the fenders can be attached.

Ryan

The angle of the track where it leaves the front road wheel before reaching the idler wheel looks a little sharp. I accept it could just be the angle of the vehicle though.

Nice job on this Pershing dang good work indeed.

Keep it coming by all means.

You could use a set of fruil tracks as all metal and I think would be the best.

See I can spend your money for you and no need to thank me.

I love your work Ryan. I cant wait to see this big bruiser get some paint! The Pershing has always been one of my favorites.

Blast, I can't get anything by you Darren!

The departure angle bothered me as well...that's why I posted that 3/4 view, but as shown below I'm not sure what can be done about it. The Pershing does have a live track set up, but the tracks may be a bit too tight....although I have seen some pics that exhibit this look.

If you look at the pic, the link directly below the hub is slightly turned up to meet the departure angle run. You basically have the loooong run below the road wheels @ 180 degrees then a single track upturned slightly to meet the 43 degree (or so) run, then 3 curved links.

Would a extra link work maybe, but then it would have thrown off the rear......sigh.



Jeff, I considered the Fruils but I'm on a deadline of sorts and have to get this one finished, I'm not sure the kit tracks look that bad.

Jon as always thanks for the support.

Ryan

It doesn't look so sever from that angle Ryan, the only other thing you could maybe do is put a slight angle on the first climbing track link. See I am still watching

Dr Baker the patient is out of track surgery and resting comfortably.

I bit the bullet and tweaked a few links to get more of a curveture at the intersection of the two run angles....I must say it was a pain, but came out nice.

The sprocket returns still need a little bending, bit I'll let them dry overnight before I monkey around with them again.







Speaking of tracks let me backTRACK a little, I wanted to photograph my tape jig used to aid sanding the track runs once they were dry. The advantage of this set up is two fold, first the track is held down tight to the table allowing you to bear down with your files and sand paper, and second the tape covers detail that may be lost in the ejector pin removal operation. I made somewhat kwik work of sanding them using this method.



The other "trick" I used during track assembly was a couple of brass T beams, after the glue set up for a few the beams were pressed down onto the track leveling them up with the table.



Ryan

Hello Forum,

I thought I'd post the last few beauty shots, I'm about ready to start painting. The sharp eyed lot of some of you will notice the storage bins and other small items have not been attached yet, the fenders are just clipped on, once I paint the running gear I'll finish the assembly of the those parts.







Ryan

You have to admit Ryan the new track layout does look so much better. Good job now get going while I consider my next smart alec suggestion.

Tracks are an extremely important part of modeling a tank. Its a real PITA to get them to look "right," But if its off only by a small bit, it will distract from the overall look of you model.

Ill get to the point- your tracks look good. Did you add a top run or just went with the visable?

Thanks guys,

They are a bit springy and off center to the wheels, but it will correct itself when I glue them down.

Darren, Yes they look better, thank you for the prodding!

Jon, I will add the upper run...but I ain't cleanin' the ejector pin marks off of them!

Ryan

Hey Ryan!
What a beauty!!

What is your opinion of the "Orange Box" product range?
I cannot resolve if it is wothwile...
Thank you
edo

Edo,

Thank you, I really like the Orange Box concept and I hope they continue. These older kits while not easy,certainly make you feel like a modeler and not just a kit assembler. The addition in this case, of the extra figures and DS tracks (for the Korean War version) make it a good value in my eyes.

I have added a few items and not spent any money on aftermarket items, BUT that is the type of modeler I am. I don't try and correct every little thing or get caught up in the history of a subject too much. I can say that I have enjoyed almost every stage of the build process up to this point, with the track cleaning as the exception.

Ryan

*EDIT* I did buy the aftermarket Archer Casting Numbers, but I'll use them on other projects as well.

I'm following this one closely, it's like a "how-to" on building the ultimate M26, and I've got Tamiya's kit in the stash, just waiting.
Super work!

Russel the Tamiya M26 is a joy to build.

I recently picked up the Accurate Armor Super Pershing conversion at a model fair. Does anybody know if the Dragon Pershing is the correct base to start from for this particular vehicle? I'm not talking turret ring, the AA kit is for the Tamiya Pershing, but I can manage the modification if necessary. I'm just wondering because I seem to remember some discussion on Pershing kits where it was a question of which type the model actually represented.

Thanks!

John

John,

I can't comment on the question of what kit to start your conversion with, but I can say the indi tracks are a real bear on this one. The Tam offering has the movable suspension in my eyes would be easier to introduce the correct "sit" to the Super Pershing...it was nose heavy. One other point I have failed to mention so far is the turret won't traverse to the left or right much more than seen in my photos...the rear casting rides up onto the rear deck. Some grinding helped a bit, but you'll need to build up the bottom of the turret to eliminate the problem completly.

Some points on making a WWII Pershing:

1. NO transmission casing stiffeners (broad rake shaped assemblies found below the sprocket casing.

2. NO threaded turnbuckle braces on the front and rear ends of the fenders.

3. NO Field Telephone box at the rear.

4. The Travel lock should be mounted to the exhaust manifold.

5. The track could either be the ones I'm using, or the T80E1 Double pin units. I found this out after assembling the sprockets to use with the other tracks....to save time I surely would have went with the DS style units included in the kit.

Anyone else feel free to add or correct me on the above.

Russel, Thank you!

Ryan

The R.P.Hunnicutt books indicates that most WW2 M26 Pershings had the track you have used Ryan the T66, the T80 tracks coming in towards the very of WW2 and are the other set included in the box. The only way to be 100% sure is to build a specific tank from ref pictures. The Super Pershing used the T66 tracks.

Well I am not going to argue with Mr Hunnicut, thanks Darren.

Some progress tonight, I took a few pics of the casting numbers under some primer....they really look good.





I tried, but failed to resist putting the preshade on the turret as well, so here it is. More casting numbers.





Ryan

Ryan there are images of the M26 with T80 tracks fitted and T66 tracks used as extra armour.

This again is coming along fabulously .

Great job and will be a nice addition to the line of late war tanks.

So these then turned into M-47's latter on?