It's almost a shame to cover up all that neat work with paint......
Still watching!
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
Orange Box Pershing (T26e3)
rfbaer
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
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Joined: June 12, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 08:19 AM UTC
mikey
Idaho, United States
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 229 posts
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Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 229 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 11:11 AM UTC
Great use of the preshading. I have tried it once before with various success, but you look like you have it down pat. Awesome work, can't wait to see it done.
Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 01:19 PM UTC
Ryan as the glue was trying to attach the un-painted fenders to the painted surface, surely that was the reason you had so much difficulty with it or was it for other reasons?
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 01:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ryan as the glue was trying to attach the un-painted fenders to the painted surface, surely that was the reason you had so much difficulty with it or was it for other reasons?
Good point Darren, but I had indeed removed the paint from areas I was going to glue.
The problem has to do more with the width of the track preventing the fenders to sit flush with the lower hull. The inner fender is only slightly larger than the tracks, any mis-allignment will cause this problem. I had not taken the care I did on the lower run because they are not as visible.
Alvaro and Russel thanks!
Mike, Pre-shading takes a lot of practice, there are folk better than me doing it! It also seems all for not when you go and cover it with pigments, but there are no short cuts....it would look different if I hadn't done all of these steps.
Ryan
chrisj
Newfoundland, Canada
Joined: February 04, 2007
KitMaker: 473 posts
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Joined: February 04, 2007
KitMaker: 473 posts
Armorama: 467 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 05, 2009 - 08:28 AM UTC
Nice approuch to this build Ryan. I'll be watching it.
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 01:59 AM UTC
Hey guys, after a year (+) of sitting in a plastic box I decided to get down to business and finsh her up!
Although I had painted and weathered the lower hull, I was just not happy with the look, and I think my skills have improved since I finished these areas anyway....so I held my breath and repainted all the work I had done in hopes of a better finish this time around!
This painting/ weathering proceedure is now more complicated since the tracks are now attached, but I wanted a fresh start on it so here goes.
The model was preshaded with Rustoluem Dark Grey auto primer, with all of the nooks and crannies filled in with aribrushed mixture of MM Aircraft Interior Blk and Helo Drab mixed 50/50. MM ANA OD Green and MM ANA Faded OD was used for the final color coats. After masking the tracks and skirts the MM OD green was misted on.
Once the lower hull was painted it was on the the upper with the OD base and Faded OD as the highlights.
Finished product.
Thanks for looking (a year later)
Ryan
Although I had painted and weathered the lower hull, I was just not happy with the look, and I think my skills have improved since I finished these areas anyway....so I held my breath and repainted all the work I had done in hopes of a better finish this time around!
This painting/ weathering proceedure is now more complicated since the tracks are now attached, but I wanted a fresh start on it so here goes.
The model was preshaded with Rustoluem Dark Grey auto primer, with all of the nooks and crannies filled in with aribrushed mixture of MM Aircraft Interior Blk and Helo Drab mixed 50/50. MM ANA OD Green and MM ANA Faded OD was used for the final color coats. After masking the tracks and skirts the MM OD green was misted on.
Once the lower hull was painted it was on the the upper with the OD base and Faded OD as the highlights.
Finished product.
Thanks for looking (a year later)
Ryan
TankSGT
New Jersey, United States
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 03:07 AM UTC
I just read the entire thread, I have 3 of these kits in the stash. I'm a bit of a Pershing fan. I thought you were doing great the first time. I'm looking forward to seeing how this comes out.
As a retired tanker I always wondered why the periscopes were molded closed. Most new kits have the periscopes up, (its about time). If the tank is depicted in action all the scopes would be mounted. Its too late for your T26 and I don't mean to nit pick. Your added details are great and I will use them, just in future think about your scale crew driving around blind.
Tom
As a retired tanker I always wondered why the periscopes were molded closed. Most new kits have the periscopes up, (its about time). If the tank is depicted in action all the scopes would be mounted. Its too late for your T26 and I don't mean to nit pick. Your added details are great and I will use them, just in future think about your scale crew driving around blind.
Tom
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2011 - 12:39 PM UTC
Thanks for reading through the post Tom, and I hope you get something from it. I don't have plans on depicting an in action display so closed periscopes are ok.
Another update tonight....the decals have been applied and the model has been futured ahead of an oil pant wash.
The decals were really thin and had almost no carrier film to trim away, but the large stars didn't settle all the way down in a couple of place..hard to see in the pics. BTW gotta love the "Lift Here" stencils......can you just see the harbor crane operator wondering were to lif this beast from?? "glad those stencils are there or I never would have figured out what those (4) huge 2" thick steel lugs are for"
There was zero chance of the rear star decal conforming around the fuel cap and other extreme curvatures in this area, so I made a stencil in CAD. The Paper mask was overlayed onto some Tamiya tape and the xacto blade passed right through the paper into the tape...easy mask!
Thanks
Ryan
Another update tonight....the decals have been applied and the model has been futured ahead of an oil pant wash.
The decals were really thin and had almost no carrier film to trim away, but the large stars didn't settle all the way down in a couple of place..hard to see in the pics. BTW gotta love the "Lift Here" stencils......can you just see the harbor crane operator wondering were to lif this beast from?? "glad those stencils are there or I never would have figured out what those (4) huge 2" thick steel lugs are for"
There was zero chance of the rear star decal conforming around the fuel cap and other extreme curvatures in this area, so I made a stencil in CAD. The Paper mask was overlayed onto some Tamiya tape and the xacto blade passed right through the paper into the tape...easy mask!
Thanks
Ryan
MajorPete
North Carolina, United States
Joined: March 27, 2005
KitMaker: 56 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Joined: March 27, 2005
KitMaker: 56 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2011 - 12:53 PM UTC
Nice work
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2011 - 01:49 PM UTC
Slick masking trick
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 14, 2011 - 06:25 AM UTC
Todays update: Wash complete, with an airbrushed MM Dull Cote clear coat.
I used Holbein Raw Umber thinned with Turpenoid. Next up some detail painting and a little drybrushing on a few high spots.
Sure glad to have the Dull Cote on the tank, I hate looking at them all glossed up with Future!
Ryan
I used Holbein Raw Umber thinned with Turpenoid. Next up some detail painting and a little drybrushing on a few high spots.
Sure glad to have the Dull Cote on the tank, I hate looking at them all glossed up with Future!
Ryan
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Posted: Thursday, February 17, 2011 - 07:11 AM UTC
The "stencils" look kick arse on this kit! I haven't seen one built with them yet, and now I want to build one of these just to put all of those stencils on
Looking forward to seeing this one complete the home stretch!
Looking forward to seeing this one complete the home stretch!
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Friday, February 18, 2011 - 12:32 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The "stencils" look kick arse on this kit! I haven't seen one built with them yet, and now I want to build one of these just to put all of those stencils on
Looking forward to seeing this one complete the home stretch!
Thanks man, yes I'm about there! (new update soon)
The stencils went on with no problems.
Ryan
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 10:27 AM UTC
Holy cow almost 13,000 hits...thanks everyone for looking (even thought it's been over a year ).
Hopefully todays post won't let anyone down. With major painting and drybrushing largely finished it's on to detail painting and weathering.
This shot of the rear shows the painted tow cable as well as the left tail light and exhaust manifold. The manifold was brush painted flat black and then an orange acrylic paint was sponged on the the surface. A later application of rust(ish) pigments will finish the look. Chipping was kept on the down low and mainly applied to the tow hook ends and armored fuel caps.
I have a "system" to painting solid molded headlights....not quite the same effect as a clear lense but looks OK in my book. The lense was brush painted with AV aluminum paint then a thick wash was applied using "The Detailer" brown wash. This cough syrup looking wash is easy to manipulate, but dries glossy. Once dry it can be re-wet and pushed around very simmilar to oil paints. A shot of Dull Cote knocks it down to a good looking finish for what it is.....paint on a solid lense.
The same "Detailer" wash was used to imitate the spilt fuel around the caps. Remember it dries glossy....so if you are carefull with your dull cote you can blend it in and still retain the glossy look in the cracks and next to the cap.
Dusting and pigments up next!
Ryan
Hopefully todays post won't let anyone down. With major painting and drybrushing largely finished it's on to detail painting and weathering.
This shot of the rear shows the painted tow cable as well as the left tail light and exhaust manifold. The manifold was brush painted flat black and then an orange acrylic paint was sponged on the the surface. A later application of rust(ish) pigments will finish the look. Chipping was kept on the down low and mainly applied to the tow hook ends and armored fuel caps.
I have a "system" to painting solid molded headlights....not quite the same effect as a clear lense but looks OK in my book. The lense was brush painted with AV aluminum paint then a thick wash was applied using "The Detailer" brown wash. This cough syrup looking wash is easy to manipulate, but dries glossy. Once dry it can be re-wet and pushed around very simmilar to oil paints. A shot of Dull Cote knocks it down to a good looking finish for what it is.....paint on a solid lense.
The same "Detailer" wash was used to imitate the spilt fuel around the caps. Remember it dries glossy....so if you are carefull with your dull cote you can blend it in and still retain the glossy look in the cracks and next to the cap.
Dusting and pigments up next!
Ryan
dylans
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 10:32 AM UTC
wow that looks fantastic.
what are you using for your photo setup?
what are you using for your photo setup?
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 05:08 PM UTC
No disapointments here mate I too would like to know your photo setup...
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 04:51 AM UTC
Thanks guys....here is the photo set up, it ain't pretty.
I have this area all set up to take pics....once a step is completed it is just carted over here to be photographed.
The lights are Target items with tungston bulbs. My pics improved a lot once I got the tripod. Using the tripod and the cameras' timer insure a nice steady shot. In all of my shots the flash is disabled, so good lighting is important. My camera is at about it's limits though...I really need a new one to improve my shots.
The paper towls taped to the lights are to diffuse the light and create soft shadows. I'm hardly an expert, just a lot of trial and error (mostly error).
Ryan
I have this area all set up to take pics....once a step is completed it is just carted over here to be photographed.
The lights are Target items with tungston bulbs. My pics improved a lot once I got the tripod. Using the tripod and the cameras' timer insure a nice steady shot. In all of my shots the flash is disabled, so good lighting is important. My camera is at about it's limits though...I really need a new one to improve my shots.
The paper towls taped to the lights are to diffuse the light and create soft shadows. I'm hardly an expert, just a lot of trial and error (mostly error).
Ryan
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 06:21 AM UTC
Dust work and intial pigment application....
A thin veil of dust was airbrushed onto the fenders and lower hull.
After drying, AV flat coat was mixed with water and was applied to the selected areas show in the pics. Mig pigments were flicked onto these areas while the mixture was still wet. The cool thing about that tecnique is it really looks like flicked up dirt as opposed to just slathering on the pigments with a wet brush.
Once dry I'll remove most of the pigments with a stiff bush....till next time.
Ryan
A thin veil of dust was airbrushed onto the fenders and lower hull.
After drying, AV flat coat was mixed with water and was applied to the selected areas show in the pics. Mig pigments were flicked onto these areas while the mixture was still wet. The cool thing about that tecnique is it really looks like flicked up dirt as opposed to just slathering on the pigments with a wet brush.
Once dry I'll remove most of the pigments with a stiff bush....till next time.
Ryan
skyhawk
Florida, United States
Joined: June 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,095 posts
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Joined: June 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,095 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 21, 2011 - 02:27 AM UTC
Damn thats looking good! Ill have to give that a try real soon!
The3rdPlacer
Florida, United States
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 01:30 PM UTC
Cool upate tonight.....running gear and tracks!
The running gear was made worn and used by selective pigments and oil paint wash applications...the result is below. Iv'e also added more pigment in the form of splashes above the sprocket.
Tracks were dusted with a (2) part pigment application then fixed into place with a wash of AV flat clear and water...about 50/50. Metalizing of the units was made possible with a makeup applicator stained with pencil lead. Since the applicator only hits the high spots this effect is achieved.
And close up...
The tracks being attached to the model is a real pain to work around and next time I will finish them seperately. You have to be real careful not to muck up the other work you've done while finishing the tracks.
Thanks
Ryan
The running gear was made worn and used by selective pigments and oil paint wash applications...the result is below. Iv'e also added more pigment in the form of splashes above the sprocket.
Tracks were dusted with a (2) part pigment application then fixed into place with a wash of AV flat clear and water...about 50/50. Metalizing of the units was made possible with a makeup applicator stained with pencil lead. Since the applicator only hits the high spots this effect is achieved.
And close up...
The tracks being attached to the model is a real pain to work around and next time I will finish them seperately. You have to be real careful not to muck up the other work you've done while finishing the tracks.
Thanks
Ryan
Belt_Fed
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
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Joined: February 02, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 02:06 PM UTC
Whoah man this is turning out good
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 05:29 PM UTC
Very interesting, I have never seen anyone use paper towels to diffuse lights I'm assuming that you don't leave the lights on long enough to ignite the paper towels?
The weathering is looking really good, the texture is especially nice.
The weathering is looking really good, the texture is especially nice.
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 08:16 PM UTC
That IS a cool update. The weathering looks very convincing!
Cheers!
Stefan
Cheers!
Stefan
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 11:44 PM UTC
Very nice progress, Ryan. The weathering is coming along nicely.
Looking forward to see more
Looking forward to see more
BillGorm
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
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Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 01:17 AM UTC
Ryan - I made this tank a while back and this blog is making me want to take another shot. That's the mark of a great build log IMHO. The dust you sprayed onto the fenders is really effective ... I'm usually too scared of mucking up the paint to spray on dust that way. I'm not overly jumpy, but I fear the one twitch on the airbrush trigger that will ruin things.