Thanks Jeff,

I am hardly an expert on the subject, but many of the US tanks up to the M60 can trace their lineage back to the M26.

Ryan

Well Done Ryan, I like your proyect!.

Thanks Alvaro!

Some color coats today, the lower hull was pre-shaded lke the Turret then shot with my own OD mix. Tracks were painted a Flat Earth/ Flat Brown mix then Futured ahead of the oil paint wash.

I'm just letting it dry then I can paint the road wheels and weather em' up!







Ryan

Ryan,
that is a fantastic build, very nice details like these casting numbers. I always like those builds OOTB. Looking forward to your next painting steps.
Thanks for sharing your pics.
greetings ro

Ryan, great progress! Keep it up! Looking forward to the end result. Will you be putting it on a dio?

Cheerio!

Thanks for the continued support guys.

No Stefan, no diorama....not this time.

More updates soon.

Ryan

Small Update for you tonight...

I'm not sure where I'm going with this, but I repainted the lower hull to better simulate a dirty running gear. I preshaded with Khaki Drab and over coated with my mix of OD.

The last (2) shots are after the wash and flat coat. Has anyone experienced a wash that lightens while drying? I started with a darker wash but as it dried it became lighter...any reason for this?

Next up wiill be a dusting coat then pigments.







Ryan

I have always found that oil washed dried significantly lighter then when they are wet. Be honest washes have always seemed pretty unpredictable for me. But i think this guy is comming out fine.

Thanks Jon,

I totally agree, I hate washes!!

The main reason I like preshading is it gives the washes a "helping hand". I sprayed some dusting coats today after work...came out OK. I'm going to give it a bath in Pigments tomorrow, then finish the tracks. Stopping in the middle of a project to do this type of work is a pain, but NO way to get at it after the skirts are on!





Ryan

Lookin good Ryan. I agree competely with the pre and post shading techniques. My Iwata HP-B if my weapon of choice for modeling...second is a fine brush and Vallejo acrylics. I know of one modeler, Andrew Dextras, that uses only his airbrush. His work is spectacular.

Anyway, i hope to see this guy with some dirt on him tomorrow.

Keep on rockin

Thanks Jon, Some first dust has been applied with Andrea Pigments "Sahara Sand".
Some dry brushing will be next esp. around the sprocket and other high spots.





Ryan

Small update before I fit the tracks...looks nice and dusty! The result of carefull drybrushing, wiping away excess light pigs, and another application of darker pigments.





Tracks up next.

Ryan

Hi Ryan,
I haved been watching your build with great interest. Your build-log inspired me to get the very same kit. One question if I may, why not paint and weather the WHOLE tank, instead of running gear/tracks first. I would be terrified that I would ruin all the work I just put into the running gear, and then not be able to blend the weathering....
I am always looking to improve, so any answer you give will be greatly appreciated. I cant wait to see it finished, and into the magazine.
Thanks!!
Wes

Hi Ryan,
I have been watching your build with great interest. Your build-log inspired me to get the very same kit. One question if I may, why not paint and weather the WHOLE tank, instead of running gear/tracks first. I would be terrified that I would ruin all the work I just put into the running gear, and then not be able to blend the weathering....
I am always looking to improve, so any answer you give will be greatly appreciated. I cant wait to see it finished, and into the magazine.
Thanks!!
Wes

Wes,

Thanks for the support. Attaching the sand shields too eary in the build would make it very difficult if not impossible to weather the running gear. The indi track links also would have been a problem to install paint and weather after the skirts were on.

Believe me , I would rather not have had to weather this early...the difficult part now will be to preserve the weathering already done to this point and blend in the final weathering to match. I'm not too bothered by it though, I'm pretty certain I can pull it all togethor.

Ryan

Ryan,

I am watching this weathering technique very meticulously. It will help me a great deal once I begin my challenger

Ryan , a great job , I look forward to seeing your progress. I have a couple NOOB questions if I may . Why the texturing on the hull and turret, is that simulating zim? Also you said that you mixed putty and glue, could you elaborate on that process? Thanks , and again , a great job!!!

The best dust job !

damn dude, looking good!! dust looks spot on
Andy

Thanks Jim, The putty is applied for (2) reasons:

1. To re-introduce texture to surfaces that have been sanded smooth. US tanks had (some) large castings that were welded together, the surface texture is somewhat rough. When you join (2) parts together the texture is lost due to the sanding process.

2. Plastic kits show a varied interpretation of what the cast texture looks like. Some manufactures' molds contain a light texture others heavy. I like to portray a heavier texture on my models. Some research is needed to know were to apply the texture as in some cases the castings were joined with smooth steel that doesn't have the same rough texture.

It does not represent Zimmerett, not sure if we even had such a device in WW II or if it was really needed.

Alvaro and andy many thanks!

Ryan

Oh Yeah the Putty/ Glue technique is pretty simple.

Just squirt some putty onto some kitchen foil and brush in some liquid qlue (like Testors).

You'll need to practice a bit, but you will get the idea pretty quick....just apply the mixture with a old brush.

BE CAREFUL though the smell is horrible and dangerous....use plenty of ventilation!

Ryan

Ryan,
WOULD YOU PLEASE HURRY UP????!!!!! I am stalled on my Pershing... I hope you know I am teasing. One question, if you would please...
Did you apply some future wax befor you applied the casting marks?? I had some pop off. Guess maybe I shouldn't have cheated. Your weathering is spot on. Thanks again for sharing your work and your time.
Cheers!!
Wes

I hear yah' Wes, I need to wrap this one up, If I don't finish soon it will be my 1st and last mag article!!

I did not use future or overcoat with future, I used my old aircraft modeling trick...Elmers Glue.

I brushed on a slightly dilluted puddle of elmers to the spot I needed the numbers then applied them like I would of with any other decal. You have to monitor the progress during the Elmers dry time and at just the right moment roll or squeeze out the glue under the decal with a wet brush. The Idea behind the elmers is since it is thicker than water it sort of fills in the rough flat paint and gets rid of most of the silvering.

Silvering is not really a issue though with these casting numbers since they will be covered with paint...if they do silver no biggie. NOW the hull decals are another (long winded ) story, those I WILL apply over future AND use my Elmers trick to prevent silvering. Not sure why your numbers popped off, but they are a little fragile.

Thanks for your continued support., now get back on your Pershing.....post some pics!!
Ryan

A update finally!!

The tracks were attached, then the fenders and storage boxes were also added.

I've seen a few of these builds on the net and on some of them I've noticed "sagging" fenders, they seem to droop down towards the outside of the road wheels. Unless you really take your time with this kit they WILL sag, the fit is poor and is complicated more with warped parts. In addtition with tweaking here and there, a pair of plyers were used to bend the inner fender out too straighten them up....so the fender bottom will be level with the tracks.

The fronts came out better than the rears, but I'm OK with it. There is also photo evidence of the fenders drooping, so even if yours sag....no big deal! (after that entire sermon above!!) The real ones are simply sheet metal so any damage or impacts will cause them to sag.

You have been warned about the fit of the fenders, I poured on the Tenax and hoped for the best! Luckily the storage boxes cover most of your sins but some putty will be needed.

On to the pics, note only the inner faces of the tracks are weathered, I'll save the outside of the tracks untill the rest of the weathering!









Thanks for lookin'
Ryan

Well, looks "so easy"....

Regards, Alvaro