Can't wait to see it all done.
Cheers.
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Richard S.
Sherman Campaign
ProfessorP
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 03:27 AM UTC
Paul, terrific job on the figures! Really well done faces. Shermie's not bad either...
Can't wait to see it all done.
Cheers.
Can't wait to see it all done.
Cheers.
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 02:22 AM UTC
I got the weathering on the lower hull done to the point where I thought I could put the parts together:
Still have some work to do on the weathering of the tracks and running gear, but the basis is complete.
Still have some work to do on the weathering of the tracks and running gear, but the basis is complete.
canuck100a
Joined: September 13, 2005
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 08:47 AM UTC
Hi PAul,
It willl be done as a Canadian GGFG's Firefly in mono green.
Eric
It willl be done as a Canadian GGFG's Firefly in mono green.
Eric
BillGorm
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 09:22 AM UTC
I know this has been asked many times before, but ... which Tamiya paints are closest to the British desert sand, blue-black, and OD colors? The vehicle I'm modeling had the desert sand / blue-black scheme, but was overpainted in OD once it reached Italy. I was thinking the following might work:
1. Desert Sand => XF-59 Desert Yellow + XF-55 Deck Tan
2. Blue-Black => XF-69 NATO Black + XF-22 RLM Grey
3. Olive Drab => XF-62 Olive Drab + XF-58 Olive Green
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
1. Desert Sand => XF-59 Desert Yellow + XF-55 Deck Tan
2. Blue-Black => XF-69 NATO Black + XF-22 RLM Grey
3. Olive Drab => XF-62 Olive Drab + XF-58 Olive Green
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
FirstMass
Joined: August 15, 2004
KitMaker: 252 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 11:22 AM UTC
I love the paint job you did on your faces Paul. I'm envious in a very big way.
Brian
Brian
generalzod
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 3,172 posts
Armorama: 2,495 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 01:24 PM UTC
Just about ready for primer.
Ruffus
Joined: April 12, 2005
KitMaker: 343 posts
Armorama: 223 posts
Posted: Monday, February 21, 2011 - 02:55 PM UTC
Thanks for the info Tom!!
Regards
Byron
Regards
Byron
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 12:30 AM UTC
Getting there. Needs some more weathering.
Silantra
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 04:33 AM UTC
hi all,
small update of my build.. DML M4A1 Sherman DV kit...
some small update
most of the major assemblies had been glue except for the turret half. The gun mantlet also havent been glued yet...
small sub assemblies will be put on next...they will be painted separately
The PE supplied with the kit are excellent but basic...
The wheel boggies, sprocket and idler wheels were painted.. add some chippings...
doesnt look good..will touch up later
one question as i'm still novice when come to sherman, regarding the tracks... what is the track type? DML gives one piece DS track... in real vehicle, would it be the rubber on metal tracks??
need to prepare for the paint job...thanks for viewing..appreciate comments and helps
Zaidi
small update of my build.. DML M4A1 Sherman DV kit...
some small update
most of the major assemblies had been glue except for the turret half. The gun mantlet also havent been glued yet...
small sub assemblies will be put on next...they will be painted separately
The PE supplied with the kit are excellent but basic...
The wheel boggies, sprocket and idler wheels were painted.. add some chippings...
doesnt look good..will touch up later
one question as i'm still novice when come to sherman, regarding the tracks... what is the track type? DML gives one piece DS track... in real vehicle, would it be the rubber on metal tracks??
need to prepare for the paint job...thanks for viewing..appreciate comments and helps
Zaidi
barkingdigger
Associate Editor
#013
Joined: June 20, 2008
KitMaker: 3,981 posts
Armorama: 3,403 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 07:43 AM UTC
Zaidi,
Nice painting! The tracks shown on the box have rubber blocks held together with metal end connectors and metal teeth. The pads would be blackish-grey and the connectors/teeth rusty metal. (I assume they might have started out OD green, but I've only ever seen them rusty & dirty.)
The only slight problem is the small roller on top of the suspension bogies - these were metal drums, so should be green (like the bogies) rather than black. The outer face that contacted the track would of course rub clean of any paint after a while, so could rusty & dirty.
Tom
Nice painting! The tracks shown on the box have rubber blocks held together with metal end connectors and metal teeth. The pads would be blackish-grey and the connectors/teeth rusty metal. (I assume they might have started out OD green, but I've only ever seen them rusty & dirty.)
The only slight problem is the small roller on top of the suspension bogies - these were metal drums, so should be green (like the bogies) rather than black. The outer face that contacted the track would of course rub clean of any paint after a while, so could rusty & dirty.
Tom
BillGorm
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 09:41 AM UTC
Zaidi - Nice work! I like the way your suspension is turning out.
Tom - Thanks for the tip on the return rollers. I didn't realize they were metal drums and was planning to paint them to match the the road wheels.
As for my Sherman Mk. III, I committed to paint this morning. I'm making a vehicle from the Polish 4th armored regiment and using Bison Decals set 35048 to model "Styr". I haven't done much independent research, so I'm following the guidance in the decal set, which shows Styr in a North African scheme of light mud / blue-black overpainted with olive drab. I think my light mud has more yellow and less grey than it should, but I didn't worry about it too much since I'll be going over it with olive drab.
Tom - Thanks for the tip on the return rollers. I didn't realize they were metal drums and was planning to paint them to match the the road wheels.
As for my Sherman Mk. III, I committed to paint this morning. I'm making a vehicle from the Polish 4th armored regiment and using Bison Decals set 35048 to model "Styr". I haven't done much independent research, so I'm following the guidance in the decal set, which shows Styr in a North African scheme of light mud / blue-black overpainted with olive drab. I think my light mud has more yellow and less grey than it should, but I didn't worry about it too much since I'll be going over it with olive drab.
Silantra
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 02:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Zaidi,
Nice painting! The tracks shown on the box have rubber blocks held together with metal end connectors and metal teeth. The pads would be blackish-grey and the connectors/teeth rusty metal. (I assume they might have started out OD green, but I've only ever seen them rusty & dirty.)
The only slight problem is the small roller on top of the suspension bogies - these were metal drums, so should be green (like the bogies) rather than black. The outer face that contacted the track would of course rub clean of any paint after a while, so could rusty & dirty.
Tom
Hi Tom and all....thanks for your reply.
So the things is called metal drum..i thought they were rubber return rollers just in Panzer IV... i learn new thing about sherman... thanks for pointing it out.
Did u mean the track were prepainted with OD in the factory?? would love to try it if it's correct...
so now back to the paint shop......
thanks once again
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 12:27 PM UTC
Finished.
ProfessorP
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 06:10 PM UTC
Wow Axel, that looks really great! Nice job.
I've added a few more details to mine, namely the sandbags.
There's more photos and some other updates at my blog over in the Constructive Feedback forum.
Thanks for checking it out!
I've added a few more details to mine, namely the sandbags.
There's more photos and some other updates at my blog over in the Constructive Feedback forum.
Thanks for checking it out!
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 06:48 PM UTC
Man, the work is just awesome here guys! I've certainly got my work cut out for me when I finally get a chance to start my build 
BillGorm
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 03:17 AM UTC
Don - Really nice work! I haven't been to the Construction Feedback section in a while, but I just went through your build log and now I want to make a similar vehicle. You know, this was supposed to be a quick detour into Shermania ...
My kit came with WE 210 tracks but really needs the T-54E1 tracks. I tried to trade for them but couldn't find any takers, so I bought a set from Panda Plastics. How do the tracks hold together without glue? I've heard they can be assembled and fitted this way, but are fragile. Did you add glue to one or both points where the connector meets the track pad? And apologies if this is a dumb question, but how do you plan to fit them to the model after painting them? Are the tracks workable to the point where you can finish them off the model, add the drive sprocket and idler, and then fit them like Friuls (i.e. simply close the last link once they're on the model)?
My kit came with WE 210 tracks but really needs the T-54E1 tracks. I tried to trade for them but couldn't find any takers, so I bought a set from Panda Plastics. How do the tracks hold together without glue? I've heard they can be assembled and fitted this way, but are fragile. Did you add glue to one or both points where the connector meets the track pad? And apologies if this is a dumb question, but how do you plan to fit them to the model after painting them? Are the tracks workable to the point where you can finish them off the model, add the drive sprocket and idler, and then fit them like Friuls (i.e. simply close the last link once they're on the model)?
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 03:42 AM UTC
Thanks Don. I'm liking your's too. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
ProfessorP
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 04:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
How do the tracks hold together without glue? I've heard they can be assembled and fitted this way, but are fragile. Did you add glue to one or both points where the connector meets the track pad? And apologies if this is a dumb question, but how do you plan to fit them to the model after painting them? Are the tracks workable to the point where you can finish them off the model, add the drive sprocket and idler, and then fit them like Friuls (i.e. simply close the last link once they're on the model)?
Bill, a neat trick I got from Jim Wechsler's book "Building and Detailing Realistic Sherman Tanks", is to attach the connectors on the Panda tracks using just a dab of white glue instead of plastic cement. This will hold the press-fit connector in place well enough to enable the tracks to remain workable. Seems to be working so far for me but I don't have a full track built so can't so if there's a "compounding" effect of the glue over the length of the track.
As for mounting them, yes, I would imagine you leave the last connector off until everything is painted and then attach it and touch up the paint and/or weathering. I suppose you could mount the treads before you do weathering, depending on how filthy your Sherman is going to be. I'll find out soon enough!
Hope this helps.
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 05:11 AM UTC
Using the white glue is an interesting idea. I wonder if it would work and still be flexible with Gator glue too?
barkingdigger
Associate Editor#013
Joined: June 20, 2008
KitMaker: 3,981 posts
Armorama: 3,403 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 06:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You know, this was supposed to be a quick detour into Shermania ...
Bill, there's no such thing as a quick detour! Shermania is a terminal disease...
Axel that's a fine build of Italeri's veteran beast!
I'm trying to finish an overdue entry for Modelling a Photo that is (surprise!) a Sherman, but after next weekend I can get back onto my own campaign builds. So many Shermans, so little time...
Tom
ProfessorP
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 08:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Using the white glue is an interesting idea. I wonder if it would work and still be flexible with Gator glue too?
Axel, I've never used Gator glue so I couldn't say for sure. Wechsler suggested just plain old Elmers, but I'm using something called Ailene's Tacky Glue. It seems to dry a bit more flexible than the regular Elmers. But I think the idea here is that the white glue is providing some adhesion but it's real benefit is that it adds more surface area between the pin and the connector, allowing the press fit of the parts to hold better. The pins still rotate fairly freely inside the connectors since the glue isn't really adhering to the plastic surface. That's just a guess but in moving the tracks around, that what it seems like is happening.
By the way, I don't think I've ever seen a photo of a Sherman with sand skirts AND the T23 76mm turret. That's a cool, unique looking tank! I'm interested to know where this type of Shermie was in service?
Whitey
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 08:45 AM UTC
Hi Don,
That is an Italeri kit, and I pretty much built it out of the box (so I can't vouch for the historic accuracy). The instructions showed three tanks in that configuration. From memory: One present at D-Day, one USMC, and the one I built, which was 10th Armored Div during the Bulge.
That is an Italeri kit, and I pretty much built it out of the box (so I can't vouch for the historic accuracy). The instructions showed three tanks in that configuration. From memory: One present at D-Day, one USMC, and the one I built, which was 10th Armored Div during the Bulge.
HONEYCUT
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 10:34 AM UTC
Some nice work and variety by all! Axel, the Italeri kit was quite the yardstick for many a year, and I think the shade of OD you have achieved looks really impressive.
Yeah you said it there...
The 76mm armed M4A1 wasn't ready for the D-Day Normandy landings, and the USMC never used them either. The Ardennes Offensive markings for the 10AD should be ok though, although whether they used M4A1s specifically requires further research. The actual decals are a bit out of scale too... But as you said, this is what they supply!
Good stuff
Brad
Quoted Text
That is an Italeri kit, and I pretty much built it out of the box (so I can't vouch for the historic accuracy). The instructions showed three tanks in that configuration. From memory: One present at D-Day, one USMC, and the one I built, which was 10th Armored Div during the Bulge.
Yeah you said it there...
The 76mm armed M4A1 wasn't ready for the D-Day Normandy landings, and the USMC never used them either. The Ardennes Offensive markings for the 10AD should be ok though, although whether they used M4A1s specifically requires further research. The actual decals are a bit out of scale too... But as you said, this is what they supply!
Good stuff
Brad
junglejim
Joined: February 18, 2003
KitMaker: 1,728 posts
Armorama: 1,629 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:47 AM UTC
Another adhesive to use when assembling tracks such as AFV Club or Panda is to use a small dab of Microscale Liquitape on the pins. It stays flexible/tacky and the tracks remain movable. No more lost end connectors...
Jim
Jim
AgentG
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Friday, February 25, 2011 - 02:24 PM UTC
Gator Grip Glue will adhere to the plastic, dry rock hard, and take all paints. I wouldn't use it for the tracks until after they are built and mounted. THEN I'd thin some out with water and dribble it on the end connectors to set them.
I have some AM tracks enroute for an M60, and I'll use good old Elmers to get them together.
G
I have some AM tracks enroute for an M60, and I'll use good old Elmers to get them together.
G
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