Not sure if it has to be a tank for the American forces.
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Richard S.
All American Tracks
GaryKato
Joined: December 06, 2004
KitMaker: 3,694 posts
Armorama: 2,693 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 12:46 PM UTC
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 04:35 PM UTC
Interesting point Gary...he's got an American-made vehicle, but can it be built in a foreign marking? I'd like to see the answer to this one...viel Glueck Sebastian! 
Sudzonic
Joined: December 07, 2007
KitMaker: 2,096 posts
Armorama: 1,983 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 11:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Not sure if it has to be a tank for the American forces.
So long as it is an American vehicle it is OK to be one used by another country.
Some great work going on guys all your builds are coming along very nicely well done everyone.
I know have the replacement part for my Bradley I will be getting going with the paint very soon.
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 12:08 AM UTC
My Tamiya M5A1 is pretty much assembled now (those old Tamiya kits are sooo fast to build).
A primer will be next.
Cheers
Paul
A primer will be next.
Cheers
Paul
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 04:35 AM UTC
Paul, Your M5A1 Stuart looks great. Can't believe you already have it assemblied. Looking forward to seeing it painted and weathered.
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 07:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul, Your M5A1 Stuart looks great. Can't believe you already have it assemblied. Looking forward to seeing it painted and weathered.
Those Tamiya kits are super fast to do (I did that one in a couple of nights).
I should have a base coat on this one in about a week Joel.
BTW: I 've also put together a Leopard 1 in the last week as a parallel build (Totally Tamiya Campaign).
Cheers
Paul
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 08:33 AM UTC
Paul,
I'm lucky to get a Dragon or Academy kit built OOB in a month's time. Right now I'm almost into my 3rd month on a detailed M3A1. Been at the Indi tracks from AFV Club for the last week, and still on the 1st set. And it's not because I don't put in my time each week. I'm that slow.
I'm lucky to get a Dragon or Academy kit built OOB in a month's time. Right now I'm almost into my 3rd month on a detailed M3A1. Been at the Indi tracks from AFV Club for the last week, and still on the 1st set. And it's not because I don't put in my time each week. I'm that slow.
Sudzonic
Joined: December 07, 2007
KitMaker: 2,096 posts
Armorama: 1,983 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 08:35 AM UTC
Great work Paul, I agree those old Tamiya kits are really fast builds.
My Bradley is almost ready for paint.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
My Bradley is almost ready for paint.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 08:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul,
I'm lucky to get a Dragon or Academy kit built OOB in a month's time. Right now I'm almost into my 3rd month on a detailed M3A1. Been at the Indi tracks from AFV Club for the last week, and still on the 1st set. And it's not because I don't put in my time each week. I'm that slow.
I know what you mean Joel.
This one is about speed and fun. The AFV M5A1 (later) will be a slow accurate 'not so fun' build
Cheers
Paul
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 09:02 AM UTC
Paul, I've got the AFV M5A1 early that looks like a real challenge just straight out of the box. Looking forward to the build. After the M3A1 I've got a M51 Isherman ready to go for the Strictly out of the Box campaign.
If I was brighter, I would have done the M3A1 for the All American Tracks campaign, and then the M4A1 DV Sherman for this campaign, instead I'll be hard pressed to finish the Stuart, then tackle the Isherman and get it done in time for a campaign ribbon.
If I was brighter, I would have done the M3A1 for the All American Tracks campaign, and then the M4A1 DV Sherman for this campaign, instead I'll be hard pressed to finish the Stuart, then tackle the Isherman and get it done in time for a campaign ribbon.
Middle_Franconian
Joined: January 02, 2011
KitMaker: 279 posts
Armorama: 30 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 09:18 AM UTC
Well, a U.S. M48 is also possible for me 
But I am not sure with Revell´s painting guide. What kind of color should I use for a U.S. M48 being on duty during the early sixties? Can anybody give me hint? That would be great!
Servus,
Sebastian
But I am not sure with Revell´s painting guide. What kind of color should I use for a U.S. M48 being on duty during the early sixties? Can anybody give me hint? That would be great!
Servus,
Sebastian
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 12:09 PM UTC
Scott, it looks like you have some nice lens-reflection on that Bradley. How did you go about doing that?
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 09:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul, I've got the AFV M5A1 early that looks like a real challenge just straight out of the box. Looking forward to the build. After the M3A1 I've got a M51 Isherman ready to go for the Strictly out of the Box campaign.
If I was brighter, I would have done the M3A1 for the All American Tracks campaign, and then the M4A1 DV Sherman for this campaign, instead I'll be hard pressed to finish the Stuart, then tackle the Isherman and get it done in time for a campaign ribbon.
That is the same M5A1 kit I have in the stash, I've bought some Bison Decals for that build which will be next year I think.
The Tamiya M5 now has a Semi Gloss Primer coat. I'll do the lower hull, wheels, and tracks in the final colors next
Cheers
Paul
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Friday, August 12, 2011 - 03:26 PM UTC
The frustrations never end...I bought a new airbrush for this kit (Iwata Revolution) and was really excited to try it out. I started painting with those cheap craft paints where you get four ounces for 50 cents or something, and I had talked with quite a few people who confirmed the possibility of using these paints in an airbrush. Naturally, I could NOT get the paints to spray right. One week wasted. So I return them all, buy Vallejo paints online (buy from SciFiGenre.com...by far the GREATEST customer service, prices, selection, speed, and so on that I've experienced online!) and try them out tonight. Now I'm worried that something may be up with the brush because the spray pattern was tremendously fat compared with my single-action Badger. At least the 
ing paint sprayed at all I guess...well just to piss me off, Dragon seems to have applied a crap-ton of mold release, resulting in some serious fisheyeing. Another week wasted. And I'll be going back to school soon, so I don't have time to be dealing with all these snafus. Maybe it's my fault for not washing the pieces beforehand, but in all of my nearly 20 kits that I've built, I have NEVER washed my pieces and have NEVER experienced this problem. I also used enamels instead of acrylics on all of these kits, so maybe that has something to do with it? Sorry for the depressio ranting, but there's no one nearby who would understand the feeling that the modeling gods just don't want me to finish this kit...
ing paint sprayed at all I guess...well just to piss me off, Dragon seems to have applied a crap-ton of mold release, resulting in some serious fisheyeing. Another week wasted. And I'll be going back to school soon, so I don't have time to be dealing with all these snafus. Maybe it's my fault for not washing the pieces beforehand, but in all of my nearly 20 kits that I've built, I have NEVER washed my pieces and have NEVER experienced this problem. I also used enamels instead of acrylics on all of these kits, so maybe that has something to do with it? Sorry for the depressio ranting, but there's no one nearby who would understand the feeling that the modeling gods just don't want me to finish this kit...Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 03:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The frustrations never end...I bought a new airbrush for this kit (Iwata Revolution) and was really excited to try it out. I started painting with those cheap craft paints where you get four ounces for 50 cents or something, and I had talked with quite a few people who confirmed the possibility of using these paints in an airbrush. Naturally, I could NOT get the paints to spray right. One week wasted. So I return them all, buy Vallejo paints online (buy from SciFiGenre.com...by far the GREATEST customer service, prices, selection, speed, and so on that I've experienced online!) and try them out tonight. Now I'm worried that something may be up with the brush because the spray pattern was tremendously fat compared with my single-action Badger. At least the
I never wash any parts with soap and water, then let dry. Takes way too long. I simply wipe all the parts down prior to painting with 70% ISO alcohol. Dries in less then 5 min. Outside of vinyl tracks, I prime with Tamiya Grey primer which is lacquer based. Let dry for a few hours, then apply the 1st base coat.
As for those cheap acrylic hobby paints, they're good for dry brushing and hand painting if thinned out.
If your worried about your new air gun, air brush some lacquer thinner through it full blast. That should clean it out. Then test with some paint. Worst case scenario is that you will have to disassemble and clean part by part, but the LC should do the trick if you air brush enough through the gun.
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 04:07 PM UTC
Thanks for the advice Joel! My work pace has crawled to a near-halt, so I haven't really been able to try much of anything. A typical session nowadays consists of me sitting down, reading my to-do list, starting one task, then rereading my list, and finally stopping my work. This kit is really taking its toll on me.
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Monday, August 15, 2011 - 04:38 PM UTC
Okay so I finally decided to make some real progress on the halftrack! I've been working on the scenery for my first real (successful...hopefully...) diorama. The plan is to have a simple cobblestone street and enough figures for a fully crewed MGMC. Should need about 5 or so. For the street, I used 1mm cork sheets. I bought an 8x8 picture frame for the base, glued one cork sheet to the cardboard backing, and then cut and glued each individual "stone" onto that sheet in the span of about a week. When all is said and done, the backing will be glued onto the glass and set in the frame. Here it is pre-painting.
I sprayed all the green when I still wasn't using my new airbrush correctly, so it's not the smoothest paint job. Looking back on it though, it's kinda neat. Gives it a more used look instead of factory-fresh, and that will serve me well for a diorama.
The tracks and roller assemblies are awesome! Using hard plastic tracks ensures that virtually no stress is put on the incredibly detailed sprockets and suspension. I first laid down a layer of Testors rust, dirtied it up with thinner and a Q-tip, then sprayed black over it all. It came out with a really good worn look, but I'll probably do more when I do the overall weathering.
Here's the street after painting. I sprayed a layer of that stone spray paint for extra texture, then grey for color, and finally went over individual stones with a grey+black mix.
And a quick look at the dio in progress. The folders are to illustrate grass on the side of the road. I don't know how I'll go about making the grass though. I know Michael's sells that Scenearama grass powder, but how is it scale-wise? Is there a specific brand of "grass" or a particular application (ie, powder vs. a grass mat) that works best with 1/35? Thanks in advance for your input!
I sprayed all the green when I still wasn't using my new airbrush correctly, so it's not the smoothest paint job. Looking back on it though, it's kinda neat. Gives it a more used look instead of factory-fresh, and that will serve me well for a diorama.
The tracks and roller assemblies are awesome! Using hard plastic tracks ensures that virtually no stress is put on the incredibly detailed sprockets and suspension. I first laid down a layer of Testors rust, dirtied it up with thinner and a Q-tip, then sprayed black over it all. It came out with a really good worn look, but I'll probably do more when I do the overall weathering.
Here's the street after painting. I sprayed a layer of that stone spray paint for extra texture, then grey for color, and finally went over individual stones with a grey+black mix.
And a quick look at the dio in progress. The folders are to illustrate grass on the side of the road. I don't know how I'll go about making the grass though. I know Michael's sells that Scenearama grass powder, but how is it scale-wise? Is there a specific brand of "grass" or a particular application (ie, powder vs. a grass mat) that works best with 1/35? Thanks in advance for your input!
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 - 03:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the advice Joel! My work pace has crawled to a near-halt, so I haven't really been able to try much of anything. A typical session nowadays consists of me sitting down, reading my to-do list, starting one task, then rereading my list, and finally stopping my work. This kit is really taking its toll on me.
At least you're giving it a try. Your work sessions sound like how I handle my wife's Honey to do list.
Just work on your kit when you can. This campaign has plenty of time left to it. I actually only model on my days off from work. I'm way to tired when I get home from work after dinner to even think of building a model. Usually I jump online and hit all my sites, and eventually watch a baseball game on MLB or hit Netflix. My work sessions are pretty intense, and I do log 4+ hours per session. My advantage is that we're married 30 years, Our son is grown (but still lives with us), and I pay others to do the weekly lawn cutting, etc. I do eventually get to the painting, fixing, and repairing, but schedule these things for the winter, and take my time. Being a senior (63) does have it's advantages. Unfortunately, it has way too many disadvantages.
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 - 03:08 AM UTC
Robby, the half track is coming out great. Your OD paint looks darn good in the photos, and that's what counts to me. Tracks look fine for where you are in the build.
What issues were you having with your airbrush? Hopefully, we can help you over the hump.
What issues were you having with your airbrush? Hopefully, we can help you over the hump.
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 - 04:47 AM UTC
Hey Joel, thanks for the compliments. I do plan on doing a bit more with the tracks, but as you said, they're fine for where I am right now. My airbrush wasn't spraying right, but I started a new topic and got some advice from the fine KitMaker members and it's been smooth spraying ever since. Turns out it was just thick paint...After nearly 15 years, I'm still pretty much an amateur! I think work will go a bit quicker now that I have that problem tackled. There's nothing else in my build that will cause me trouble...except maybe the grass. Do you know of any 1/35 grass mats? I really want to avoid static grass if I can.
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 04:35 AM UTC
I ended up using Scenearama's grass mat because Michael's had it in stock and it's cheap (about $3 for a pretty large roll). I also finished the figures and most of the model last night. Unfortunately, someone is borrowing my camera now so I'll in turn have to borrow someone else's camera if I want to post pictures.
GregCloseCombat
Joined: June 30, 2008
KitMaker: 2,408 posts
Armorama: 2,394 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 06:05 AM UTC
I got it out of the box this morning 1/48 Kengi Hellcat (Ken Swenson kit from Sherman Oaks, California)
Robby - Nice work on the halftrack - Look forward to seeing how you handle the grass (when u get ur camera back).
1/48 Kengi Hellcat (Ken Swenson kit from Sherman Oaks, California)Robby - Nice work on the halftrack - Look forward to seeing how you handle the grass (when u get ur camera back).
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 06:36 PM UTC
Depending on whether or not I decide to weather the halftrack (except for my Il-2, I never have been very good at weathering my models), I'm basically done with all the diorama's components. I just have to put them all together now! Sorry for the pictures...I'll take much more when I have my amazing point-and-shoot. I tried using a friend's SLR and I could not get pictures of the same quality as my camera. Some would blame that on user ignorance, but I still blame the camera. 
Here's the base. At this point, the layers go as follows: picture frame glass, picture frame cardboard, cork, cobblestones and grass. As I said before, the grass is a $3 SceneARama grass mat. I also bought their Foliage and Grasses kit which looked really nice, but it would be too crowded to put bushes, tall grasses, and grassy hills in the tiny space that I've allotted for the grass. It just looks right now, you know? The demarcation between grass and road was made by running a large emery board in tiny circles over the area and with uneven pressure. From a distance, and even pretty close up, it looks convincing. (To me, at least!)
For whatever scientific reason, I don't know, but wood glue between glass and cardboard produced air bubbles, which resulted in some neat bumps in the road. I had no intention for this to happen, but it's a further depth to the countryside road and will add to the overall look of the dio.
The halftrack is complete! It looks pretty good now, but I'm really excited to see how it all blends together for my first dio. I'm debating weathering it, but I don't know what to weather or how to do so. I don't have pastels or washes, which I know are favorite weathering components, but do I need weathering? This halftrack will be modeled as outside of Remagen, 1945, and it's obviously been traversing stone roads, so how would it get beat up?
Here is the Band of Brothers, minus the gunner, who couldn't come out of his turret for the picture! Dragon's figures (the gunner and the one on the left) were very well done, but the driver wouldn't fit in the driver's seat, so he became an ammo loader. The other figures came from MiniArt's US Jeep Crew & MPs set, and were also very well molded. Despite that, all of the figures required some level of orthopedic surgery, ranging from shin removals to shoulder additions. In the end, though, I'm proud of my surgeries
As I said, the left ammo loader--the ex-driver--didn't fit in the cabin, so I stuck him in the back. The middle loader needed an arm-straightening and -lengthening, and MiniArt's driver fit perfectly. And yeah, the middle guy looks like a conehead.
The left figure is the halftrack's commander. Maybe it's the whistle, maybe it's the leather gloves and pistol, but something about him reminds me of Major Frank Burns from M*A*S*H. Needless to say, I really enjoyed watching this figure take shape. I like the body language of the middle sentry, and the right sentry is an All-American soldier (with a rifle sling made of black thread).
Here's the base. At this point, the layers go as follows: picture frame glass, picture frame cardboard, cork, cobblestones and grass. As I said before, the grass is a $3 SceneARama grass mat. I also bought their Foliage and Grasses kit which looked really nice, but it would be too crowded to put bushes, tall grasses, and grassy hills in the tiny space that I've allotted for the grass. It just looks right now, you know? The demarcation between grass and road was made by running a large emery board in tiny circles over the area and with uneven pressure. From a distance, and even pretty close up, it looks convincing. (To me, at least!)
For whatever scientific reason, I don't know, but wood glue between glass and cardboard produced air bubbles, which resulted in some neat bumps in the road. I had no intention for this to happen, but it's a further depth to the countryside road and will add to the overall look of the dio.
The halftrack is complete! It looks pretty good now, but I'm really excited to see how it all blends together for my first dio. I'm debating weathering it, but I don't know what to weather or how to do so. I don't have pastels or washes, which I know are favorite weathering components, but do I need weathering? This halftrack will be modeled as outside of Remagen, 1945, and it's obviously been traversing stone roads, so how would it get beat up?
Here is the Band of Brothers, minus the gunner, who couldn't come out of his turret for the picture! Dragon's figures (the gunner and the one on the left) were very well done, but the driver wouldn't fit in the driver's seat, so he became an ammo loader. The other figures came from MiniArt's US Jeep Crew & MPs set, and were also very well molded. Despite that, all of the figures required some level of orthopedic surgery, ranging from shin removals to shoulder additions. In the end, though, I'm proud of my surgeries
As I said, the left ammo loader--the ex-driver--didn't fit in the cabin, so I stuck him in the back. The middle loader needed an arm-straightening and -lengthening, and MiniArt's driver fit perfectly. And yeah, the middle guy looks like a conehead.
The left figure is the halftrack's commander. Maybe it's the whistle, maybe it's the leather gloves and pistol, but something about him reminds me of Major Frank Burns from M*A*S*H. Needless to say, I really enjoyed watching this figure take shape. I like the body language of the middle sentry, and the right sentry is an All-American soldier (with a rifle sling made of black thread).
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 06:38 PM UTC
If I don't weather, I'll finish the dio for sure tomorrow. (Even if I do weather, I should still be done by tomorrow night.) It should only take 15-30 minutes, and I'll have my camera back too.
ltb073
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 3,662 posts
Armorama: 3,078 posts
Posted: Monday, August 22, 2011 - 02:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm debating weathering it, but I don't know what to weather or how to do so. I don't have pastels or washes, which I know are favorite weathering components, but do I need weathering? This halftrack will be modeled as outside of Remagen, 1945, and it's obviously been traversing stone roads, so how would it get beat up?.
Robby, all you need to weather is to mix up some cheap craft store brown acrylic paint with some water and some plaster of Paris and use an old brush to swab the under carriage, fender wells, tires, tracks and running gear and wa la instant weathering
remember less is more, I would also give the whole half track and the crew a wash of like a dusty tan, hope that helps 
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