Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Panther Campaign
BBD468
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text



Hiya Jan, Nice job so far bud. You likeing this little Panther? I had alot of fun with it. I want to do more 1/72nd and 1/48 kits.

Gary




Quoted Text

Gary...Ahhhh,Master.I see that you are starting to be drawn into the Small Side.Soon the mini maddness will begin Do not be afraid,for it is a good maddness.
Remember,Large there is not,there is only small Jeff T.




Hey!!! Theres my buddy Jeff. I partially blame you for drawing me to the tiny side of modeling with your wee JP's. 1/72...fun, they are...build more, i must!

Jan - I agree with everything you said. It seems they could have went the extra mile in having a more complete kit since most of the kit is pretty darn nice. It just needed that...little extra!

Gary
SGTJKJ
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Monday, August 20, 2012 - 07:16 AM UTC
Beautiful details on the tools, Richard. Looks great.

Great job on that small kit, Jan. maybe I should try a modern Braille scale kit. I have a nostalgic weakness for the Matchbox kits, so trying a dragon kit would be a quantum leap.
tread_geek
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Posted: Monday, August 20, 2012 - 07:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...
Jan - I agree with everything you said. It seems they could have went the extra mile in having a more complete kit since most of the kit is pretty darn nice. It just needed that...little extra!

Gary



Gary, I'm quite sure that the things that I've already mentioned in my previous posts about this kit wouldn't have added too much to the manufacturing costs. Also, a little more care in the engineering (small pins, BIG holes) and with the instructions would help to get them back on track. Dragon had previously set a pretty high standard for their kits and recently they appear to be back-peddling.


Quoted Text

Great job on that small kit, Jan. maybe I should try a modern Braille scale kit. I have a nostalgic weakness for the Matchbox kits, so trying a dragon kit would be a quantum leap.



Jesper, I also have a soft spot for Matchbox and even Airfix, to mention a few. However, the state of many modern kits would certainly surprise you. Plus, here at Armorama there are quite a number of Build Reviews of Dragon kits and they should at least give you an idea of what they might be like. If I may be so bold, check out the Dragon 1/72 Type 97 Chi Ha offerings. I've built and reviewed both and they were a real delight.

Cheers,
Jan
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:34 AM UTC
Gloss coat on ..Decals are on and the dark washes are mostly done..(still a bit to do on the rear)So here's what I got so far...
Thank God for Solvaset!!







That's it for now!
Rick
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 06:43 AM UTC
Very nice work Rich and a nice job on getting the decals to sit down
jkb_sprint
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Thessaloniki, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 07:32 AM UTC
Richard very nice work on your Panther! It looks great, camo, numbers everything shows a very methodical build.
Dragon164
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 10:11 AM UTC
Yes Richard a fine job!

Cheers Rob.
SGTJKJ
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 02:59 PM UTC
Great work on the decals, Richard. That is turning into a really great Panther build.

Looking forward to see more.
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:29 PM UTC
thanks guys ..really appreciate the comments
asmodeuss
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 01:10 AM UTC
Very nice work there Richard. Keep them coming!

Phil.
BBD468
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 12:32 PM UTC
Awesome job Rick!!!

Gary
barkingdigger
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#013
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 09:40 AM UTC
Hi guys,

As I sit here reeling from the sad but inevitable news that Neil Armstrong has passed, I thought I'd share some progress on my rendition of the Panther A at Aberdeen Proving Ground.

First off, the APG tank is an old relic with damaged wheels and rusted-up tracks, and it doesn't appear to sit quite level. So, I had to start by sticking a wheel in each corner to adjust the height before filling in such that all the wheels touch the ground.



Part of the trouble is that DML helpfully designed the holes and axle stubs with an eight-sided profile so they line up nice and level for a fully laden Panther, so I had to smooth off the ridges on the axles to let them twist.




Then there's the wheel without a rubber tyre - rather than file it off and raise loads of dust I used my cutters to snip it off before smoothing the stump with a file.



There are two axles missing on the right side, and several damaged wheels that affect axle angles, but oddly the left side has a complete set of decent tyres! The wheels are only press-fit onto the axles at the moment - once the glue sets on the axle stubs I'll add the Magic Tracks and then pry the whole wheel/track assembly off as a lump for painting.



More to come,

Tom
eMan
#298
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
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Posted: Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 07:58 PM UTC
Getting start, Dragon ERSATZ M10.


CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 10:03 PM UTC
E-man this is a nice kit to build as while it has a few weak spots it makes for a very original Panther. The best advice I can give is get hold of as many pics of the five real vehicles as there are subtle differences between them depending on which you have decided to build.
barkingdigger
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 08:07 AM UTC
Another update on my APG beast! The tracks came out pretty well, although the Magic Tracks (a sealed packet) were one link too few on each side! Fortunately there are spares on the wheel sprues...




My plan to remove the wheel/track assembly was scuppered by the inherent weakness of the tracks - I opted to glue all the wheels on instead, so the entire kit will be one big lump for painting. That's ok - it's all grey , and access is more than good enough for adding rust...

By the way, the kit instructions are terrible! I missed the little plate that hides behind the first axle on the left side (lotsa fun prying the axle out before the glue hardened!) and the double springs above the second & seventh axles are not even mentioned. Good thing I'm ignoring the official assembly sequence, then!

On the back plate I plugged up the holes for the stowage boxes with plastic rod. Then I carefully shaved off the right-hand track tensioner flap and drilled out a hole so it can hang open. The mechanical starter cover (in the middle of the round plate) was shaved off after I'd drilled out the bolt holes. All the rest of the details will wait until the hull is assembled - the fit requires too much man-handling for my liking, even though DML/CH would have you add all the fragile stuff first.



The upper hull plates were assembled next, after I cut the front fenders off. (More on these later...) Because I am not adding the side-skirt hangers I instead added some channel sections for the mounts. Once I paint the inside of the engine area a dark rusty colour the next step is to mate the hull together.




Enough for one evening!...

Tom
CMOT
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 09:09 AM UTC
Tom I believe the track links on the sprues may be for going around the drive sprocket as the Magi Tracks do not always fit the drive sprocket for reasons unknown.
barkingdigger
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2012 - 10:40 AM UTC
Hi Darren,

You may be right - those Magic jobbies were a little stiff on the sprocket teeth! I was just very lucky the extra links were in the kit at all, since it came with the DS track runs... (I scored the Magic Tracks off Bill Cross for this project.)

Still, I'm quite pleased with the results - both sides really look like the photos I have of the real thing. But if I was doing an "in service" Panther I'd definitely use the DS runs instead!

Tom
barkingdigger
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 10:28 AM UTC
Another update! I wound up painting the inside black, but before that I scratched the track tensioner from some tube and strip plastic. (The real thing is a round rod with a hex-shaped socket in the end, set within a "tunnel" behind the hatch...)




Then came the fun - trying to get the hull together! Forgive me if you've already been there, but this was my first experience of a DML Panther. I first thought I could slide the top onto the bottom from the front, pushing back until it hit the rear plate. Unfortunately the raised edges around the front towing eyes prevented this, so instead the hull has to be forced downward over the flanges at the top of the lower hull - no easy trick. I shaved the front edges of the flanges to make it easier, but it still takes too many hands! At this point I realised the sponson floors weren't perfectly level, and the rear hull plate needed to be pressed inwards to meet the rear of the hull top.



Getting the rear to mate took some brute force (and ignorance, of course!), but try as I might I could not eliminate the gap at the front. Instead I resorted to a filler of plastic strip, trimmed to shape afterwards.




In retrospect I think it would have been better to glue the sponson floors and rear plate to the lower hull first, and then add the upper hull after. But by then the sponson floors were firmly part of the top, as per instructions. Oh, well - live & learn!

I finished up by adding welds from plastic strip & glue along the joints at both ends. At least that's the worst of the fettling done - now I can add the fragile stuff...

Tom
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 11:18 AM UTC
These things are sent to try us bud.
wedgetail53
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 11:24 AM UTC
Tom

Yes, as the builder of numerous DML Panthers (and with several still in the stash) I feel for your problems getting the hull pieces to fit, and can only agree about DML's insistence that you add the fragile bits - almost guaranteed to get broken off.

One thought - I believe you will find that the inside of the engine compartment is primer red in colour, but I stand to be corrected.

Have fun.

Regards

Rob
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 12:41 PM UTC
I have original pictures of the engine bay on a KingTiger and that is red oxide
thebear
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 07:42 PM UTC
Hi Tom ..Good solution to the problem ...I have an A model that I started a while back and had no problem with the joint but it might be because I didn't add the sponsons until after I had glued the rear panel to the top and then glued the front ..you then add the sponsons. Remember there is supposed to be a small gap behind the grills and only the engine deck cover should be snug up against the rear panel.
I hope that makes sense..

Rick
barkingdigger
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 08:13 PM UTC
Hi Rick,

Yep - that makes perfect sense. I wish I'd done it that way round! Oh, well - serves me right for following even a small bit of DML's instructions!

Tom
asmodeuss
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 12:53 AM UTC
Tom, I had the same fitting issue on the cyber hobby flakpanther and came to the same solution! Classic dragon hullfitting Very nice attention to details I'll be looking this one out. Thanks for sharing the fun.

Phil.
PantherF
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 01:45 AM UTC
Looking good Tom!

I think we were all spoiled by Tamiyas excellent fit and nearly perfect instructions. At least I was.

But, if one thing taught me even before Tamiya (Revell and AURORA) was to dry fit and with DML... DRY FIT EVERYTHING!

Deciphering the instructions is the main culprit as the drawings are terrible. My leFH18/40/2 (sf) auf G.W. Pz.Kpfw. III/IV build has me relying on a few build reviews to look ahead on possible errors or problems.

So far though mine has no real fitment issues like your front & lower hull on your Panther.









~ Jeff