Not to steal Mike's thread, but I did send feelers out to a contact I made thru work that does 3D scanning full time. I'm currently waiting to hear back from him on an estimate for a few projects I had in mind.

YES!

If it's about the railstock, then thank you. Not trying to insult you, Frederick, but I've tried railstock before but I wasn't able to get too far.




I've actually already finished the set when I posted the question. Now I'm well into rendering the models. Here's what's going to be included:

2 M200 rifles - 1 extended stock, 1 collapsed stock
14 magazines - 7 loaded, 7 unloaded
2 bipods - 1 open, 1 closed

I've also done up a set with silencer/suppressors attached. Includes everything as well.

Pictures of the M200 set:

Wow! That M200 looks amazing.

I have a question for all those buying stuff from Shapeways. How good is the printout? How much surface prep is needed before masterpieces like this are actually used? Also, I've heard European Shapeways store uses printers with far less resolution than their US counterpart. Is that true?

Mario

I can't comment on quality of the US vs EU Shapeways because I've never received a part from the EU Shapeways printers. (I live "near" the NY Shapeways so I assume that's where all my orders come from).

Depending on the material and the resolution you order in (FUD vs FXD), the quality can vary. For parts like the M200 I just showed, the render in Frosted Extreme Detail will be significantly better than Frosted Ultra Detail.
With FXD, you can get layer resolution down to 16 microns. In Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD), resolution is about 25 microns. So with FXD, layer height is barely visible except on very angled or highly curved surfaces. Both can resolve detail about .1mm and larger height/depth and width (although I've seen details smaller than .1mm being rendered on products I've designed and purchased) so detail is very good. Unfortunately on all FUD products I've ordered, I've have severe residual printing deposits. But I've never had that problem on any Frosted Extreme Detail products I've ordered.

It's generally recommended that you put all Frosted Detail parts under a UV lamp or in sunlight for a few hours to cure any microscopic bits of uncured resin. If the part you get feels a bit waxy or oily, blast it with UV light. A fully cured part should feel hard and smooth on flat surfaces. On some of the stuff I have that I did cure, it feels sort of like the lightly rubber coated electronics. It should feel like that when fully cured. After everything is cured, you can prime the parts with an acrylic primer. Never use enamel or solvent based paints on these Frosted Detail parts. The paints may not dry well and, at worst, could melt the plastic. I don't know how Tamiya 'acrylic' paints would work but I would be cautious and not try them. Or try them on scrap pieces.

Very thorough answer, thanks Mike!

Mario

Anytime. I also put up the non-suppressed M200 set. FXD is available now for $14. The suppressed version will be available tomorrow but I won't be rendering it. I'll also start working on the instrumentation that goes along with the rifles. With the exception of the laser rangefinder because that will take a bit more intensive modeling than the weather station and ballistics computer.

I think what I might do is scale up the extended stock model to 1:16 and 1:1 and render it to see how the size compares.

Mike,

That set looks awesome!! I've added one to my cart for the 15th (you know what I mean by that) I headed to the office to try to catch up on the custom work that keeps coming to me....

I've also just bought one to try to add one success to the batch. Next project might be a Barrett M82 (I know there's so many of them on the market) or maybe a AI AWM. Not sure. First I need to finish some homework and try to drop a class to free up time in my schedule.

If I posted this already please ignore but I would like to see 1/35 US-Nato tow cable ends that we can add our own cable material to 6-10 bucks a pop for one cable + shipping is a bit high as far as I am concerned ,from what I have seen of the 3d printed items of this size, seems you could pack a lot of them on one carrier, enough to last a long time, the kit supplied items (if supplied at all) are often lacking, esp in older kits ,anyway thanks for reading this

I'm not sure about the cable ends. I haven't found anything on Google searching for "tow cable ends", "military vehicle tow cable ends," "tow cable eyelets" and the like. I could just simply draw based off of kit parts.

The suppressed version of the M200 set is now available and both sets now come with the KESTREL 4000 weather station and the Trimble Advanced Ballistics Computer.

I've also now just started on a McMillan TAC-50. Previous record holding gun of the "longest shot distance." I'm more than halfway finished so I should have it finished by the end of the week taking into account classes and homework.

I will also start looking into making a scopes set.

All that's left on the TAC-50 is the bipod. I'll then draw up some magazines it'll be finished.

Looking good Mike! I'll wind up getting that if it's done by the 15th as well.

It should be finished by tonight unless I find some more components used in the TAC-50 system.

TAC-50 is available. I have yet to add much info or tags to it but that'll get done in time.

in the cart for the 15th! Thanks!!!

Here's an example found using "army tow cable" as search criteria :

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/23/U.S._Army_Sgt._Daniwel_Dana_with_Lightning_Troop,_3rd_Squadron,_2nd_Cavalry_Regiment,_hooks_a_tow_cable_to_a_Stryker_armored_vehicle_during_a_mission_rehearsal_exercise_(MRE)_at_the_Joint_Multinational_Readiness_130308-A-PU716-003.jpg/1280px-thumbnail.jpg

H.P.

Front winch (2.5 ton truck) and Wrecker (5 ton truck) boom cable clevis socket (1/2"):





H.P.

Thanks for the photos Frenchy! Your Google-Fu is off the charts!

[quoteNot trying to insult you, Frederick, but I've tried railstock before but I wasn't able to get too far. [/quote]

No insult whatsoever.

When you say railstock, do you mean the track and components, or actual railway cars? I was referring to the cars.

Tell you what i would love to see: aircraft and vehicle radios of various scales. I have many older kits that scream for radios - esp. Japanese planes - that would love a nice looking 1/72 radio.