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How to Create Accurate Weld Effects

Complex Welding Simulation

In this section we will look at some examples of more complex welding effects. We shall only cover two examples here but the range of effects to be achieved is only dependant upon what the effect is that you are trying to replicate.

Example 1: 90° multiple fillet weld

A multiple fillet weld is a join that has overlapping weld seams that are designed to give a greater strength between the join of sectional surfaces. The effect that we are trying to replicate here can be seen in our examples as described in the section on Basic Welding Techniques. In our case though we will cheat slightly as we do not need to create an entire series of overlapping welds.

In Pic 12 we have taken our fillet sections and have added a small strip of triangular styrene directly into the grooved area. This is done to save us time and effort in having to build the depth up using milliput. Note that in this example we are creating a big volume weld. In most multiple weld scenarios you will probably only need overlapping rolls of milliput with no depth filler to create the desired effect

As before the same procedures apply with respect to layering of water on the surfaces to be worked. In Pic 13 we can see the first layer of weld has been applied along with the surface effects being finished. Blending of the weld to the sections is not done at this stage.



In Pic 14 we can see the application of a second weld seam. All that needs to be done now is to blend the edges together using water and paintbrush again. Try not to blend in too much the division between the welds where they touch so that you keep a fine line of demarcation. This photo again does not show the volumetric shape that is obtained by this method due to the angle at which the template has been held up to the camera but the general nature of the finished product can be visualised by again considering the shape of the depth area in Pic 13.

Another fine example of what we are trying to replicate can again be seen in the image below (again taken from an SU100). This example shows a nice overlapping but messy effect.


Example image courtesy of TankMaster (www.tankmaster.com).

About the Author

About Twig
FROM: ENGLAND - NORTH EAST, UNITED KINGDOM


Comments

I read this in a book once,but maybe it would work in a different way,In the book it said to slightly push a pin(not heated) in to the pastic,so it forms a bulge around the tiny ark,that traps the paint and makes a rivit,maybe if you scribed very lightly with that pin to make the letters,and painted,you would get the same affect
SEP 04, 2003 - 02:08 PM
That's an interesting thought Dave, thanks Rob
SEP 05, 2003 - 02:05 AM
Thanks Jim! Your article serves to inspire me to continue with weld seam additions. I've almost given up with the styrene rod method (making it gooey & soft first using thin plastic cement then scribing the weld pattern with a hobby knife). The cement tends to somewhat ruin the surrounding plastic, making the model's surface finish look terrible. The next weld seams on my models will definitely be made of Milliput.... Cheers! Dennis
SEP 06, 2003 - 01:47 PM
Like learning there are more ways to do a difficult task. That's one thing I can always count on here and that's learning new techniques and even getting ideas on areas I hadn't even considered before.
SEP 06, 2003 - 06:20 PM
This is a good article. Wonderfully illustrated. Quality job. Thank you !
SEP 17, 2003 - 08:51 AM
Excellent Article... Made sure I printed it out for future referance!! :-)
SEP 17, 2003 - 01:26 PM
Another informative and well written article. Keep em' comin. Joshua Weingarten IDF Armour Group LINK
SEP 18, 2003 - 11:18 AM
Another informative and well written article. Keep em' comin. Joshua Weingarten IDF Armour Group LINK
SEP 18, 2003 - 11:18 AM
This article still remains a classic. I notice some were asking about welded on writing. I've posted picks of the Abrams welded on numbers before which look far better than the DML numbers. There's a clear rubbery substance (I can't remember the name of it as it dried up at least ten years ago) that you can purchase at art supply stores. It can be applied with a syringe (through the needle even) and takes paint very well. I'll see if I can find it next week when I get home, unless someone else knows what it's called.
MAR 02, 2010 - 01:02 PM
spot on
MAR 02, 2010 - 09:25 PM