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Sdkfz 10/5 Flak 38

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Rear Deck and Flak 38
With the front half of the vehicle done, it was now time to turn to the business end of things…the rear deck and Flak 38. The rear deck plate had several ejector marks visible on the underside so these were puttied and sanded down to eliminate them. The rear Notek light was added along with the Eduard PE mount for it and the kit-supplied mud flaps replaced with the Eduard items for better detail. Since the DML Flak 38 base mount had different dimensions from the Italeri parts, I didn’t open up the holes in the deck as called for in the instructions because those holes would’ve been in the wrong locations. The rear deck was then installed onto the lower hull and the front bracing rail and side connectors added.

The Italeri kit provides the option of having the mesh side extensions for the fighting platform in either the raised or lowered positions. I opted for the raised position and assembled each of the panels with this in mind. Instead of the over-scale Italeri plastic/vinyl mesh, I used the Eduard mesh inserts for each panel. The Eduard mesh was installed using careful applications of liquid glue and gentle pressure with a wooden toothpick to avoid damaging the mesh in the process. The side ammo bins for the 2.0cm clips were also added and the panels installed to the rear deck.

That now led me to the “kit within the kit” for this project, the DML 2.0cm Flak 38. The DML kit’s detail is far superior to that of the Italeri parts so the Flak 38 was replaced wholesale as a result. I followed the DML instruction order and assembled the base of the Flak 38, adding all the small details along the way. The DML styrene barrel was replaced with an Armorscale aluminum barrel with pre-formed brass muzzle flash suppressor and the Armorscale barrel fitted to the base of the gun with CA gel after drilling out the necessary hole for its mounting pin. I left the actual barrel itself separate from the mount to facilitate detail painting later on.

The remainder of the Flak 38 was assembled with the gun in the 20 degrees of elevation angle to allow the gun to fit properly on the bed of the Sdkfz 10. I used the DML provided pre-formed brass shields for the main splinter shields as well as the shield around the gunner’s sight. The main shields had to be re-bent slightly to get the right angle and were secured in place with CA gel. The spent shell catcher basket was constructed using the DML-supplied brass mesh and pre-formed two-part half-moon lower portion. The brass mesh was carefully annealed over a gas flame and bent to shape and glued in position with CA gel to form the necessary shape. Last but not least, I drilled out the ground targeting scope for the gunner with a pin vise and did a test fit of the gun in the bed to insure everything would play nice later on. The gun itself was not yet installed to the bed to allow for separate painting and weathering.

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About the Author

About Bill Plunk (wbill76)
FROM: TEXAS, UNITED STATES

Like many, I started out in the hobby as a kid building airplanes to hang from my bedroom cieling. I took a long break from the hobby, returning in 2001 with an interest in armor inspired mostly by online gaming. WW2 armor, 1/35 scale, is my preferred genre with a special taste for the stranger vehi...


Comments

Looks like another winner from Wild Bill Plunk.
DEC 06, 2010 - 10:25 AM
Thanks Bill and of course thanks to Darren as well for the effort in putting this one together.
DEC 06, 2010 - 12:55 PM
Bill, Excellent Work!!!! Looks fantastic! So just out of curiosity, I have a question for you. What did the completed kit cost with all the AM/PE and the DML 20mm AA gun versus what the base kit itself cost? I only ask out of curiosity and amusement. Over on the New CH Tiger I topic there's a bunch of chatter about the cost of new kits, but when you stop to think about all the money spent on extras for these kits it makes the newer kits look down right cheap in comparison. Thanks and again, outstanding job!
DEC 07, 2010 - 03:04 AM
Sean, That's a great question to ask and thanks for the comments! The kit itself IIRC I picked up for around $20 a few years back and the rest of the stuff I accumulated here and there until I had it ready and ultimately was ready to build it. All told, including the original kit purchase, the cost of this one came to around $80 or so give or take since I used MK tracks and also included a replacement AM barrel for the DML Flak 38.
DEC 08, 2010 - 11:38 AM
Good article again Bill. Lots of little bits of useful info and what to look out for. Don´t suppose theres any point mentioning a figure for this one????
DEC 08, 2010 - 12:26 PM
I'd think someone had snatched you and replaced you with an impostor if you didn't at least make the suggestion Frank!
DEC 08, 2010 - 02:55 PM
Another great kit by Bill !! It's been awhile since I got a look at your builds ! I have 3 Demags on stash, not that one, I agree with the cost benefit issue with the AM parts. Great work on that old Italeri kit
DEC 09, 2010 - 09:16 AM
Thanks John, appreciate the comments!
DEC 09, 2010 - 12:15 PM
I think its high time all us armor/figure/diorama guys got together and had an intervention so you get the push/support needed!
DEC 09, 2010 - 01:29 PM
I think its high time all us armor/figure/diorama guys got together and had an intervention so you get the push/support needed! [/quote] I'll second that! Come on Bill, all the COOL kids are doing it!
DEC 10, 2010 - 02:30 AM