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Texturing AFV Surfaces

Texturing Armour (continued)

After texturing you can add some scratches and dents to the still soft plastic to improve the “realism” effect. I am using a blade or tweezers for this effect. More heavy damages are performed with a soldering iron.

When working with resin, white metal or "mixed configurations" I am using Italeri glue thinned with Squadron White putty or Tamiya putty to resemble the texture. I had so far no accident that this texture is detaching from such a surface. You can also use this Putty/Glue method for resembling "heavier" texturing. You can use this layer also, but very carefully on enamel painted AFV’s which need to be “restored”.

Some guys are using Acetone and Tamiya Putty for texturing. To me this has several disadvantages. The Italeri/Squadron/Tamiya Putty method is already challenging nose, throat and eyes, but Acetone/Tamiya Putty is a real "killer'. Also Acetone is evaporating very quickly and you have to work fast to avoid a putty caked surface.

It is my impression that paint fixes easier to such a textured surface and also the filter settling comes along smoother. Drybrushing is easier as the paint "is caught" at the "raised" texture. So after all you get a very delicate looking model in the end.

There is another method of texturing by using a drill with a dental burr. One must be very careful using this method. If you do not work concentrated you can easily drill an unintended hole or damage other parts of the kit or create a dent which doe not look realistic. You also must take care to work asymmetrical to avoid a too uniform pattern. Burring is creating dust and especially when working with resin the fun ends and a mask is vital.

As I painted my kits with brush for 20 years I can say that I am quite used to handle a brush and therefore prefer the glue method for texturing. Just take care that the brush does not loose hair which then is stuck in the texture.

Copyright ©2002 - Text by Werner Kampfhofer (tankbuster). Photos by Hannelore Zajic, Wolfram Bradac, Robert J. Sladek, and Tankbuster. All Rights Reserved.

Project Photos
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About the Author

About Werner Kampfhofer (tankbuster)
FROM: WIEN, AUSTRIA


Comments

very good articles and very helpful tips.I print it to put in my "how to" folder.
JUL 21, 2002 - 08:30 PM
Jim, great article. Just a question: Does he use a regular tooth brush for make de rough surface or its a special one? And if so, is it soft or stiffier brittle? I already used the seams method and got the same effects! Cheers
JUL 21, 2002 - 08:54 PM
I must have overlooked this article. Really great stuff here. Makes me wanna run out and pick up another piece of armor...lol...noooooooo!
AUG 01, 2002 - 09:39 PM
Wow great idea. Yhe know i never even thought about texture. Great article.
AUG 02, 2002 - 05:56 AM
Terrific article. Adding texture is certainly another step toward "ultra -realism". This is evidenced by the photos in Werner's article. When a model can stand up to such close viewing as in some of the photos, well the build has nailed it. Even the unfinished Sherman in the "strange colors" looks like metal. Great job! Scott "The Main Thing is to Have a Good Time"
AUG 04, 2002 - 07:06 AM
K, well i tihkn this article is quite old now, but why does the texturing go pink on the sherman, thanks
NOV 09, 2005 - 04:06 AM
Sam, I believe that is just the color of the putty that Werner uses. Someone else can probably tell you what kind it is exactly by the color. Cheers, Jim
NOV 09, 2005 - 04:29 AM
Yeah it is the putty, I think it's made by testors.
NOV 09, 2005 - 05:37 AM
A very nice articlewith some good tips. However, I have recently discovered that Mr.Surfacer 500 also works very well in creating textured surfaces. Since it sticks to itself so well, you can replicate really rough cast surfaces, to hardly any texture at all. Great stuff!
NOV 09, 2005 - 07:09 AM
Hiya all, Great article by the way. When I paint any afv, I stipple the base coat on, I think this in itself gives good texture.
SEP 07, 2006 - 05:44 PM