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Texturing AFV Surfaces

Weld Seams (continued)

Once finalized some seams may look to rough. Spreading some liquid cement over them makes them "softer". If some seams got too deep, mix up some putty with liquid glue and spread it over the affected area. You can also sand the seams with sandpaper or steel wool to make them smoother.

There is a problem on resin and white metal kits as a welding tool does not affect these materials. If seams are required the stretched sprue variant has to be employed. There is one thing to notify as the sprue has to be super-glued onto resin/white metal but then the plastics melting process is different. It does not melt like on a plastic base and only 3/4 of the sprue will melt and the rest is mingled with the superglue and does not change.

One can get addicted making weld seams this way as it is very relaxing and straightforward. It is important to avoid overdoing it, and depending on vehicle type it is sometimes better to omit the one or other seam to save the overall appearance of the model.

There is another method of making seams by adding putty instead of a stretched sprue. I tried it once but was unable to press even the fine Tamiya putty through a needle.

Tool holders, tie downs, light guards - these are usually made from etched parts. I got crazy in sanding off any excess of superglue in the area where parts meet the surface of the kit. Look at any US WWII vehicle and discover that these parts were also welded to the surface, without having any excess removed. I therefore do not remove the superglue excess any more, as far it comes in a nice round shape, as it represents the "real" welding quite good. I sometimes even add some superglue gel to force this impression - and another good point is that the etched parts are more secured.

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Copyright ©2002 - Text by Werner Kampfhofer (tankbuster). Photos by Hannelore Zajic, Wolfram Bradac, Robert J. Sladek, and Tankbuster. All Rights Reserved.